Looking for best practice tips. So you're going to remove a brake caliper or a clutch slave cylinder, and you've got a hydraulic line that you want to keep from leaking all the fluid out of while the project sits for a week. What do you use as a line plug?
I try to save those little plastic caps that come on new lines.
For rubber and fuel hoses there are specific clamping tools, though they won't work for steel braided lines.
I've used golf tees in a pinch, though they tend only to slow, not stop the drip.
Next time I'm trying some ear plugs! The foam ones may not work, but the silicone ones should...
44Dwarf
SuperDork
2/19/13 12:17 p.m.
I bought bras caps and plugs at the parts store years ago i keep'em with all my brake fittings etc.
You keep the bras with your caps and plugs? And you got them at a parts store? What are they for anyway? 
Depress the brake pedal about 1/8 of an inch and keep it there with a rod or broomstick wedged under the seat.
Disconnect away. It won't bleed out as long as the MC plunger is slightly engaged. All you get is one or two drips you can catch with a rag. Think of it like putting your tongue over the top of the straw and pulling it out of the drink. Nothing will leak until you open the top.
All fluid reservoir caps I've ever seen are vented -- they have to let air in at the top in order for the fluid to move out of the reservoir and into the system. If you block that vent on the cap - no fluid can come out of an open line because no air can get in. I just put bigger brakes on the front of my car -- a piece of masking tape over the reservoir cap vent hole did the trick. Had the lines open for a variety of changes -- didn't lose any fluid to speak of other than that in the lines I removed. And no air got into the MC -- which is what you really want to avoid.
If waiting for new lines, crush the end tight with a pair of Vise Grips.