With all of my fuel system parts here for the Midlana I am starting to lay out the fuel system. My original plan was to mount a filter and check valve between the in-tank pump and the fuel pressure regulator. Unfortunately that won't work...
The length of the filter, fittings, coupler and check valve is several inches longer than the distance between the fuel tank and regulator. Even the filter alone is too long to fit, so I need to find another home for it.
Really the only place the filter fits is between the regulator and the fuel rail, right next to the valve cover.
My concern with this location is fuel heating from the valve cover. This is after the return, so excessive heat could cause vapor lock. I could add a heat shield to help, but would like some input from anyone with experience.
The check valve can also fit in this area, however since the fuel system is so compact, I'm not sure that it's necessary.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Mr_Asa
Dork
5/14/20 10:40 p.m.
Can always boost fuel pressure to compensate for fuel boiling. As pressure goes up so does temp of vaporization. Ford did that with every EFI 4.9L they had. Also some years had a ducted fan blowing across the rail and injectors, and every year had a heat shield from the exhaust ports that were directly next to the intake ports.
A fuel return system might be a more rational choice than all of the above, though.
Do they make a slip fit heat sink/radiator for around the filter?
Staring at it it with a beer in hand revealed a better solution: connect to the pump with a 90 degree coupler, mount the filter to the convenient studs on the tank, then up to the regulator with a few more 90 and some hose.
I'm going to skip the check valve for now, I can always add it on later if necessary.
Put in a Cool Can. ONLY $139 from Summit. Or you can get a Canton Fuel Cooling Tank for $228. Actually with a can about six to eight feet of copper or aluminum tubing you could make your own to be really Grassroots. Use dry ice instead of regular water ice. Your results may be less than spectacular though...
Can you draw out your plumbing? It is preferred to run it: pump > filter>fuel rail>FPR>return
The way it looks you deadend the rail which can work but can have some tuning implications and make hot restarts tricky (as fuel won't cycle through the rail until you are actually injecting fuel)
Best way to get this layout with your packaging may be to run the feed into the part of the rail that is close, 180 back to the fpr across near the valve cover, then to tank off FPR
You should not hang the filter off the regulator or the tank unit.
Vibration will disassemble the weak link. Use a hose on each side of the filter and a clamp to support the filter, it should also be located so that when it is serviced fuel does not run all over stuff.
Your pump should have a check valve in it.
The regulator goes on the return side not the supply side of the rail.
