lotusseven7 (Forum Supporter) said:
I bought a new Jeep Gladiator in Feb 2022 which came with a 3/36 factory warranty. Now I do drive quite a bit and in March of this year I was close to my 36,000 miles and was at the dealership for a fluid service. I spoke with the service writer about an extended warranty and the options and she took me over to the Jeep F&I guy to discuss what was available. Now I'm a mechanic and certainly wouldn't normally purchase any type of service contract or warranty, but since this vehicle is new and Implan to have it for many years, I was considering it. Fast forward about 2 weeks and I get a transmission code while the Jeep slowly coasts to a stop on the side of the road. Not good! I get it going again, limp it to the dealership and leave it for them to figure out. Now it was time to seriously weigh whether to buy the extended warranty or simply roll the dice for the foreseeable future and hope nothing goes wrong with it after the warranty expires. After getting the truck back from the dealership with no explaination of what caused the transmission issue, I decided to buy the warranty. The question then becomes which one? I spoke with 3 local dealerships and they all quoted a different 3rd party warranty company. I listened, took their paperwork and went home to do some interwebs research. I also asked each one about the factory MOPAR extended warranty and they all said their 3rd party company was better. Again, more research led me to a Jeep dealership in the MidWest that has a person who does nothing but sell MOPAR warranties online and over the phone for $50-100 over cost(a or so they say). After a longer phone conversation and exchange of paperwork, I decided to buy the longest term and mileage warranty available. I'm covered for 8 years and to 125,000 miles with the factory MOPAR coverage and hoped to never use it. Unfortunately here's where, in my case, this is going to pay off. 3 weeks ago while washing and detailing the truck, I noticed some bubbles under the paint on the hood and drivers side rear door. Strange because the Jeep never goes off-road, lives in a garage, gets washed/dried regularly, it's 100% stock and lives a pretty easy life as my DD. I had read on the one Jeep Gladiator forum that bubbles under the paint due to oxidation of the aluminum body panels was a thing because of poor paint prep, I would have never guessed mine would do it. Back to the dealership to have them take a look and sure enough mine is one of the unlucky ones with panel prep and eventual oxidation issues. Because of the extended warranty, the issue is covered and will be repaired with a $20 deductible. Now I don't know anything about paint and bodywork, but they are replacing the hood, rear door shell, 2 hinges, repainting them and blending the adjacent panels. How much would that cost, I have no idea, but I'm thinking a few thousand maybe? The warranty cost me $3600, so I'm going to say that in my situation, buying the factory extended warranty is going to be worth the investment. It's also transferable should I decide to sell the Gladiator, the new owners will have piece of mind knowing that any issues that had popped up in the past were taken care of by the dealership and moving forward any issues up to the expiration date/mileage will be covered.
Just my current experience.
The aftermarket extended warranties (they are not warranties, they are service agreements, a type of insurance) are not as good as the OEM backed ones. There is so much profit in extended warranties that the dealers and dealer groups are creating and funding their own and they will obviously tell you they are the better ones. Service advisors are now selling these too.
Let me explain how the numbers work:
$4,000 service contract retail price
$~1,500 cost from the finance/insurance company. Yes, $2,500 pofit for the dealer.
$3-500 fee from the finance/insurance company.
$1,000-$1,200 left to pay claims. If during the life of the policy, $500 is spent on claims, you have a loss ratio of 50%
Car companies' quality becomes rather apparent when you look at the loss ratios of the different car companies. Most OEMs range from 40% up to 80%. You will be pretty close if you guess on who is at each end of the loss ratio spectrum. The finance/insurance company makes their money with these "free" assets to invest for the duration of the contract. These monies are sent to an off-shore account where they pay little to no taxes. At the end of the policy's term, any of the principle money left over are sent back to owner of the dealership. Since it is coming from on overseas bank, there are no taxes on this money. This is why dealers will sell over the web a contract with minimal upfront profit, they will get it at the end.
There is a reason why there are so many telemarketers selling these and the high pressure tactics of the F & I manager at the dealer.