The lightest of LS1 refreshes…opinions please.

If you want a reference, here is my main thread...which avoids the big backstory. 
 

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/gen-1-camaroasa-stock-car-build/177739/page1/

I just purchased a known LS1 that ran great when pulled, not high mileage and bought from a quality racing community/grm forum human. 

Option 1: swap out the rods and bolts, throw it in the car and go racing. (It will be not stressed as I need to probably drop 10% from stock hp to meet my specs)

Option 2 is just replace the bolts, look it over...and "send it". 

I will be moving over my bolt-ons such as ps, dry sump/oil pump, alternator. 

I know the rods have a reputation of failing...is it the rods, bolts, oiling issues or???

I am leaning toward option 1 for time/energy/cost but don't want to step in it. 

I would do the consumables then look it over with the pan off and send it.  I typically do waterpump, timing chain, tensioners, gear, and gaskets.  Just really cheap insurance and you get to have a good look around.  

84FSP said:

I would do the consumables then look it over with the pan off and send it.  I typically do waterpump, timing chain, tensioners, gear, and gaskets.  Just really cheap insurance and you get to have a good look around.  

If/when you do the timing chain, look into using an LS2 timing chain.  They are a bit beefier, and still work well in LS1s.  

The Gen IV LS has much stronger rods, but this has been hugely determined by people turboing them to the moon, then driving 1/4 of a mile.  Nevertheless, the powerdered metal thing seems to add some strength; my 6.4 Hemi has the same type of rods . . .

If cost is not a huge issue, and you trust the engine, here's a vote for just send it.

You have a dry sump so you already have the LS weak point covered there.  I guess the question is did you have ARP rod bolts in the other engine?  Is the engine in a heavy car that sees a lot of revs?  I might pull a cap off of Rod #1 or #2 and see how those bearings look but other than that I would proceed without digging deeper. 

Send it 

RacetruckRon said:

You have a dry sump so you already have the LS weak point covered there.  I guess the question is did you have ARP rod bolts in the other engine?  Is the engine in a heavy car that sees a lot of revs?  I might pull a cap off of Rod #1 or #2 and see how those bearings look but other than that I would proceed without digging deeper. 

Car is a former stock car of some sort with the lightest of light bodies over it.  Fiberglass front end and just outer sheet metal on the rest?

My backyard flooded in a rogue storms and I just got my pump running after fighting off some baby gators...sorry for the slow reply. 
 

I appreciate all the responses. Sounds like I have enough support to put my "send it" jacket on. 
 

In reply to Mr_Asa :

It is 100% figerglass body...the whole shooting match is under 150 lbs. 

Its about as light as I could figure out how to make it. It is about 2800 with me in it (200lbs) and a full fuel cell. 

RacetruckRon said:

You have a dry sump so you already have the LS weak point covered there.  I guess the question is did you have ARP rod bolts in the other engine?  Is the engine in a heavy car that sees a lot of revs?  I might pull a cap off of Rod #1 or #2 and see how those bearings look but other than that I would proceed without digging deeper. 

I haven't dug into the old engine yet but assume it has arp rod bolts in it. You just described what was my most hopeful option. Put on arp bolts, check the bearings and go. The next level would be to replace rods if the stock rods we're a well known weak point, but I have a feeling oil starvation was probably a major contributor to failures...and I have the dry sump. So, I like the idea of putting on new bolts, check the caps and send it. 

I'd put eyes on stuff while you are changing the pan and send it. 

Another send it vote.

88k mile LS1, did the aforementioned consumables 84FSP suggests, and top end refresh, but left bottom end stock.

6 years later, never even had valve covers off...many track days, autocrosses, races in Mexico, and even drag strip visits.  Not even a peep or leak. I basically daily it 8-9 months out of the year too (prob have 30k hardish miles on it?). I do have Accusump, oil thermostat, LS6 oil pump, and big coolers on it FWIW.

Maybe if you have points or race season on the line, go deeper, but if not, send it. Revs under 6300rpm (usually stopped making power by then), no turbo or forced induction, can make that hp and tq all day for years on end (280-400hp).

Best mod and money I ever spent on an automobile was putting tarted up LS in my car.

In reply to RACEC4R :

Many thanks to all. I will be back at the home shop next week and hopefully get this squared away shortly. Even as mild as this is, I will be exploring a few things I've not ever set up, such as the dry sump. I will document for anyone who might benefit from it.