The U Joint/Driveshaft thread

This post is just a place holder. I'll add more info by editing later.

First a link to a nice xls file with a lot of driveshaft lengths.

www.mitchelldrivetrainservice.com%2FAUTOMOTIVE_PROPCATALOG_1__APPLICATIONS.xls

Here is a standard U Joint.  They are easy to replace by removing the clip and pressing the joint out.  Some have the clip on the inside of the joint.

This is a staked in U Joint.  These are much harder to replace if they are replaceable at all. 

This is a slip yoke. The spine count is important.

This is flange yoke.

Powertrain industries has slip and flange yokes for all kinds of applications. I used some of their parts for a NC miata 5 speed to Subie R160 drive shaft. 

https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs.htm

I am totally posting here just to bookmark it.

Also, https://www.opticatonline.com/ is a kind of parts catalog, where you can look up parts by attributes instead of year/make/model.  Great if you are looking for, say, a 3/4" bore tandem master cylinder, and want to know what cars to look for at junkyards.

I am posting that here because I keep forgetting the url and end up spending a half hour trying to find it again.

I'll add this to the topic. 

Recently had to rebuild my driveshaft on my xj and used this tool.

The auto parts store rental was heavier duty but this worked well.

Second attempt, u-joint tool link $47

In reply to NoBrakesRacing :

You're missing a : in your link after htttps

Don't forget the stupid ones gm used a couple decades ago with the plastic retaining ring inside where you need a torch to remove the joint. Or the biggest hammer and little respect for stupid engineering. 

The good old GM 3R.  I would love to use an aluminum Camaro driveshaft in a build because of the length but can't spend more on conversion u joints than the entire driveshaft.

barefootskater said:

Don't forget the stupid ones gm used a couple decades ago with the plastic retaining ring inside where you need a torch to remove the joint. Or the biggest hammer and little respect for stupid engineering. 

Using a torch is probably the best way to remove a U-joint anyway.  Cut the middle out, and then the cups can be smacked inwards.  C-clips are then a piece of cake to remove, the new U-joint can be installed fairly quickly by hand while the yoke is still hot.  And since you are not using a press or other type device, there's no chance of you squeezing the ends of the yoke together so you can't get the new C-clips in.

In reply to Knurled. :

No the torch isn't for cutting anything. It's for boiling the plastic that retains the cups. Some joints have clips on the outside, some on the inside, but these devils do not use clips at all, those little orange protrusions are where the plastic escapes after you get the joint hot enough. Then the cups are free to come out. It is very tricky the first time. Unless you are like my dad and refuse the fire despite what the internet and local pros say, and just keep escalating the size of hammer attempted until something gives. I mean, it worked but it was stupid. 

Knurled. said:

barefootskater said:

Don't forget the stupid ones gm used a couple decades ago with the plastic retaining ring inside where you need a torch to remove the joint. Or the biggest hammer and little respect for stupid engineering. 

Using a torch is probably the best way to remove a U-joint anyway.  Cut the middle out, and then the cups can be smacked inwards.  C-clips are then a piece of cake to remove, the new U-joint can be installed fairly quickly by hand while the yoke is still hot.  And since you are not using a press or other type device, there's no chance of you squeezing the ends of the yoke together so you can't get the new C-clips in.

I like this guy's way of thinking...., ;-)

In reply to djsilver :

I scrolled down past the name, read the post, and said "that's gotta be Knurled."  Much respect to that guy, the voice of experience is strong with him.

In reply to barefootskater :

I've done dozens of those U-joints so I know about the plastic BS.  (And yes it's a pretty BS design, coming from someone who usually can understand and appreciate the engineering decisions behind service-unfriendly designs)

I'm just sayin', I'm usually going to have torches out anyway, so it's not that big a deal

I have changed dumpster loads of the plastic retained ujoints (fleet maintenance on an all GM RWD fleet). It never annoyed me even a bit. Even a handheld propane torch will put out enough heat to cause the ooze. It's funny what bothers one person doesn't bother another. 

If you're feeling froggy, you can usually set the grease seal on fire, aim it at your buddy, and the cap will pop out ond fly towards him.

In reply to Stampie :

Thank you. Fixed it.

In reply to Knurled. :

I forgot you're a real mechanic. Hope I didn't come off as preachy or anything. Fire is just usually my last resort. 

In reply to Cousin_Eddie :

We need a video.