BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo UltimaDork
4/17/16 11:00 p.m.

Carb in question is a Rochester 2GC on a 1976 Buick 231, accelerator pump acting up, carb has likely never been apart, time to rebuild.

I have to pick from

Rock Auto: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS "Hygrade" or AIRTEX / WELLS

Oreilly: Walker Products

Autozone/Advance:GP Sorensen

NAPA

I know if it has a plastic float it should be replaced, is there a preference between brass and "nitrophyl"? It seems O'Reilly offers a brass one (also walker brand).

I've only done a couple of automobile carbs and it's been a while too, any tips beyond the general towel on the bench or work in pans to stop stuff from rolling away? Any 2GC specific stuff? In my reading I understand a couple of staked in parts should be removed, the "power piston" and some T shaped piece in the accelerator pump circuit?

novaderrik
novaderrik UltimaDork
4/17/16 11:18 p.m.

For oem carbs, I just buy whatever kit they sell at whatever store I happen to go to..

For aftermarket carbs (Holley, Edelbrock, etc.) I get one from whoever made the carb.

dean1484
dean1484 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
4/17/16 11:36 p.m.

I also look at what a new carb costs sometimes it is not much more.

Cousin_Eddie
Cousin_Eddie New Reader
4/18/16 5:18 a.m.

I've been using the Standard Motor Products kits professionally for about 25 years. They fill the need and I don't have any complaints about them.

The staked in deal on the accelerator pump is just a little metal tee that fits down into a slot on the carb body. When you get the top off you'll see it sitting there flush on top of the carb main body. Just grab it smartly with a very good pair of grippy needle nose pliers and yank it up. Under it should be a little spring like in a ball point pen, then under that a steel BB type of check ball.

MadScientistMatt
MadScientistMatt PowerDork
4/18/16 7:12 a.m.
dean1484 wrote: I also look at what a new carb costs sometimes it is not much more.

Although if you're looking at a parts store rebuild instead of a new carb - I'd take the rebuild kit. A lot of the mass produced rebuilds these days are junk. I managed to rebuild a Holley 1920 with a NAPA kit when I was about 18 with absolutely zero experience working on carburetors, and had better results than what I've had with going with "professionally" rebuilt carbs - probably because I didn't hose it down with a sandblaster or mix and match parts from a bunch of different carbs.

Zomby Woof
Zomby Woof PowerDork
4/18/16 7:18 a.m.

2GC is a very simple rebuild. Done many of them in my street stock days.

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
4/18/16 8:02 a.m.

Brass floats last pretty much forever and will stand up to any kind of fuel, so there's that.

stuart in mn
stuart in mn UltimaDork
4/18/16 8:45 a.m.

The Carburetor Shop in Missouri is supposed to have high quality rebuild kits: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/ I think they have sourced components that stand up better to e10 gas, but you'll have to ask them about that. Otherwise I'd go with Standard Motor Products

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