Timing Belt Issue - Pics Inside!

I broke a piece off of the exhaust cam trying to get the crank pulley bolt off (stupid), by using a breaker bar while the camshaft tool was in place. I know it won't hurt performance but when I went to install the new belt, I took off the camshaft tool to inspect the damage. Well both camshafts moved after I removed the tool. The crankshaft TDC pin is in and now the camshafts look like this:

Here is the pin:

Am I alright to install the new belt? The directions say the #4 cyl camshaft lobes need to be pointing inwards (towards each other) and they are, but the slots on the end on the shafts are not parallel to the top of the head as you can see.

I would replace that camshaft first.

Is it going to have some balancing issues?

Are those slots the timing marks? If so, no way would I fire it up. If they are not, to be on the safe side I'd suggest checking the other end of the cams (I am assuming the far end is where the pulleys go) for a damaged key etc. If all that checks out OK then if ALL the marks line up then I would venture that things are probably OK.

That small a piece missing at that small a distance from the center of rotation won't have any noticeable out of balance effect.

I believe they are timing marks. The instructions state to install the timing tool (flat steel bar that goes through both slots and rests on top of the head) but I am unsure how to do this when the camshafts are in the wrong position. I inserted the tool prior to removing the old belt and when I removed the tool with no belt the shafts moved.

That's a ford 2.3 isn't it?
If it were me I'd replace the cam. There isn't much metal missing, but if it does cause a vibration you will toast the head since there aren't any bearing shells in that motor. Cheaper to replace 1 cam now than to replace a head, 2 cams and maybe more later.

Grab the cams with a pair of pliers, rotate till the tool goes back in place, compensate for the broken chunk- if the ex cam isn't held snug, which it won't be since you learned about holding tools vs alignment tools, you'll need to hold down on the tool to index off the undamaged portion. If you assemble it as is, your intake cam will be about 30 degrees off time.

It's a 2.0 out of an SVTF. This was a lesson indeed. My first time opening up a motor. From age 18 to 25 I've owned 6 cars and this is the first time I've had to open up an engine. I have a spare motor that I can pull a good cam out of. I assume the timing belt install gets a bit more complicated when I need to remove the cam gear? Maybe do as Streetwiseguy says and use some pliers to slip the timing tool in the slots, remove the cam gear, remove the pieces that hold the camshaft in place (what is the correct name for them?), drop in the undamaged camshaft and tighten everything down.

I say replace the cam. Especially if you have one handy anyway. And the bar that fits in the slots on the cam, is to make sure the timing is right. The way it is now, the slots aren't lined up. At best, the car will run like crap. At worst, you will be bending valves.

skullsroad said: I assume the timing belt install gets a bit more complicated when I need to remove the cam gear?

No, The cam gears on a Zetec Focus engine are not indexed to the cam. There is no pin or keyway, the bolt is just torqued to the proper spec.

Just take the replacement cam including the cam gear out and drop it in. Of course you will need to check and adjust the valve clearances.

Hal wrote: Just take the replacement cam including the cam gear out and drop it in. Of course you will need to check and adjust the valve clearances.

Watch for the front cam seal if you don't replace it, and that things gotta have hydraulic lifters, doesn't it?

There is lots of info about this on www.focaljet.com in the SVT section. This is not new - and not a total loss. It will just make it more difficult to the cams lined up correctly. The VCT system that controls the variable intake cam timing is very picky - if you don't get it nearly perfect you will throw a P1381 trouble code and CEL. But you can still do it.

On focaljet, you can find the Ford factory manual instructions for doing the timing belt. Follow them EXACTLY - NO SHORTCUTS, doing the best you can on the busted cam, and you will get it done. It may just take a few extra iterations.

Streetwiseguy wrote: Watch for the front cam seal if you don't replace it, and that things gotta have hydraulic lifters, doesn't it?

It has cam follower buckets and shims for clearance. When you change cams you need to install the new cam, measure the clearances, then disassemble and change the shims where needed.

SVTF wrote: There is lots of info about this on www.focaljet.com in the SVT section. This is not new - and not a total loss. It will just make it more difficult to the cams lined up correctly. The VCT system that controls the variable intake cam timing is very picky - if you don't get it nearly perfect you will throw a CEL. But you can still do it. On focaljet, you can find the Ford factory manual instructions for doing the timing belt. Follow them EXACTLY - NO SHORTCUTS, doing the best you can on the busted cam, and you will get it done. It may just take a few extra iterations.

Very good advise, especially the part about following the directions exactly. The VCT system makes it a bit more complicated than the standard Zetec engines I have worked on.

Hal wrote:

Streetwiseguy wrote: Watch for the front cam seal if you don't replace it, and that things gotta have hydraulic lifters, doesn't it?

It has cam follower buckets and shims for clearance. When you change cams you need to install the new cam, measure the clearances, then disassemble and change the shims where needed.

I'm very familiar with bucket shims. I'm fascinated that an American car company would build an engine that uses them, thats all. So now I need to know more about this Wonderous application of proper low tech goodness, as there is an SVT Focus up at the insurance salvage place. Anything with solid lifters is a must-have.

Actually Cosworth did the engine, for the most part. SVT Foci are excellent track cars...............

Hal wrote:

skullsroad said: I assume the timing belt install gets a bit more complicated when I need to remove the cam gear?

No, The cam gears on a Zetec Focus engine are not indexed to the cam. There is no pin or keyway, the bolt is just torqued to the proper spec. Just take the replacement cam including the cam gear out and drop it in. Of course you will need to check and adjust the valve clearances.

Yowza, knowing that's the app I 100% agree. Postmortem inspection will probably reveal the cams actually turned in the cam gears since they have no keyways.

If the cam gear seats against that broken surface, you lost a good chunk of real estate so it's possible the cam gear retaining bolt could work itself loose over time. Replace with good boneyard part. Feel safe and secure. Learn for next time.

That surface is the backside of the cam - the alignment bar is all that is used there - the bar slides in the slots. Other than that, this end of the cam is useless.

oops

The SVT most likely has one piece buckets. They come in various sizes to adjust clearance. The broken cam won't cause any problems as far as running. It might affect the lining up of the cam for timing. With no1 cyl. on TDC the cam lobes on NUMBER ONE cylinder should be point more or less up, ie: valves closed.