Tire and wheel questions

Hey guys,

I have a couple of questions about tires, and wheels. Number one is regarding my 74 REPU. It has a set of 93 or so Mazda wheels on it from the previous owner. They look fine, and do their job, but just last year when rotating them I noticed a pretty bad griding sound when driving after the rotation. Turns out the inner wheel weight on the left front was self clearencing on the lower control arm under braking but only hardish braking. I inspected the other wheels and found the one that had been on that corner had done the same thing. Does it make sense that under normal braking it didn't come in contact, but under harder braking when the nose would dive down it did hit? Also regarding these tires and wheels, the one that I had on the right front before rotation last year would lose air over time. It is now on the left rear and still seems to be losing air which I tracked down last night using my wheel barrow full of water. It is leaking in a 3-4" section where the tire meets the wheel. Is that a problem with the wheel, tire, or both? Repairable? These tires are date coded 4308 so I believe that means 43rd month of 2008. They seem to be in good shape still, but are cheapy tires branded Sigma. Should I just break down and replace them?

Now on to a question regarding the alloy rims I got along with my Delica. 2 of them are in okay shape, but the other 2 are pretty corroded. Can this be made to look better at home?

If so what would you recommend doing to bring back some luster short of sending them to a wheel shop?

It makes sense, but unless the weight is normally only clearing by a fraction of a millimeter, you might have worn wheel bearings allowing the wheel to move around too much.

Oh and the leak at the bead could be the wheel or tire or both...but most commonly, that happens when crud has worked its way into the bead, and the fix is to take the tire off, clean the sealing surfaces and remount the tire.

The wheel weight seems like it had clearenced itself on the wheel I rotated before, but I never heard it(don't know how). I know the wheel bearings are new last year, and I know they are tight. It's funny how it only hit when under hard braking that made the nose of the truck dive.

I was able to get the tire dismounted, and rim cleaned up this morning at a local tire shop. Seems to be holding air just fine now. We will see however.

Loose lower ball joint allowing the wheels to move vertically?

43rd week, not month. The rest of the dot is all factory and batch codes for recall purposes.

Also forgot to add, just replace them. 7 years old, federal limit is 10 and most major chains is 5/6. If you brought those into my shop, I wouldn't even be allowed to mount them for you

e46potenza wrote: 43rd week, not month. The rest of the dot is all factory and batch codes for recall purposes.

Yeah I meant to type month, not year. I guess it was a case of brain not engaged with fingers. I think I will replace them but not just yet. I don't use the truck much and don't have much cash right now.

Thanks for the replies.

Chris

e46potenza wrote: Also forgot to add, just replace them. 7 years old, federal limit is 10 and most major chains is 5/6. If you brought those into my shop, I wouldn't even be allowed to mount them for you

Can you show me a link to this "federal limit"?

So are the alloy wheels I have salvageable at home, or do I need to send them to a professional? I don't need them looking perfect, but would like them looking better.

You could strip them and put a polisher to them. Be a pain ever after to keep them clean.

I've had great success refinishing my own wheels. I used duplicolor wheel paint and clear coat and they came out looking factory fresh and held up for years. I cleaned them using CAR products wheel acid with no ill effects. Have a go at it, you've got nothing to loose, if they come out like e36m3, do them again or have them done professionally.

My first thought would be worn out bushings that are deflecting enough to allow contact.

All new bushings and ball joints in the front end. Done last year with good parts. Looks like it did it before with the wheel that is on the rear now. Maybe its just because these wheels are not stock to the truck. They are Mazda truck wheels but from a 92 or so, and the truck is a 74.

In reply to chandlerGTi:

Clear coat them, or powder coat clear, DO NOT PAINT the seats for the lugs.

Mazdax605 wrote: Does it make sense that under normal braking it didn't come in contact, but under harder braking when the nose would dive down it did hit?

If the clearance is normally tight there, sure. Iron and steel are surprisingly flexible.

It is leaking in a 3-4" section where the tire meets the wheel. Is that a problem with the wheel, tire, or both? Repairable?

Just corroded. Happens all the time. A knotted cup brush in an angle grinder will clean it right out. A little rim sealer and it's good as new.

I understand that in places where this isn't common, tire shops will recommend the wheels be remanufactured or just thrown out. I'd sell more wheels than tires if I did that here Seems that wheels need to be cleaned every other year or so after the first time they start leaking.