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bluej
bluej UltraDork
8/23/16 4:30 p.m.

that may be more work than scouring the yards around here for a replacement weekend after this one.

I do like the idea of essentially creating a deeper hole for the bolts in the flange by installing a thicker (taller) bushing. hmm. something to think about.

JBasham
JBasham Reader
8/25/16 11:49 a.m.

Personally I don't worry too much about the output and diff angle matching perfectly and I'm willing to let the 2-piece drive shaft and CSB fudge it a little bit.

There are aluminum and poly-bushing replacement quibos out there if I was of a mind to resort to a stronger connection (but if things turn out to be indeed off, I would rather break a quibo than crack metal, so I wouldn't move on to that step yet).

My '79 3 series (E21) uses a small-case LSD but the mounting is pretty much like the E30 and the one-eared diff cover is connected to the chassis by an aluminum dog bone with stiff poly bushings top and bottom. I have already cracked one diff cover wide open after fairly limited track service, and this is with an M20B25 motor that I seriously doubt is even doing 160hp at the crank. The force is strong with this one, apparently.

bluej
bluej UltraDork
8/25/16 2:20 p.m.

Getting the balance of firmness vs. shock durability for rallycross definitely takes some figuring out. I considered a metal giubo but I think keeping the rubber one makes sense for the abuse. Likewise, I considered delrin for these bushings, but a stiffer poly seems the right balance, given the rough courses we run and my upgraded torque/hp. Josh Hickey (irish44j) runs delrin for most bushings, but he's all "I run a smaller 4cyl and never break my drivetrain! nyah nyah nyah!"

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