Tow backwards? Or anyone with a car trailer going from D.C. area to eastern PA?

More details to come shortly, but got a good deal on an NA Miata. It's currently at a shop, and the shop says the differential is toast. I've only got a tow dolly for my minivan.

Anyone have experience towing a car backwards? I've seen it done, but never tried it. I'd assume the wheel has to be perfectly straight and locked.

Alternatively, if anyone with a car trailer just happens to be heading from west of D.C. to eastern PA, drop me a line. I'm making arrangements to make the trip myself, but can't hurt to ask.

Is the diff broken in such a way that putting it on the dolly with the fronts in the air and rears rolling would be a problem?

it does all depend on the how the diff is broken... and how hard can it be to replace the diff down there?

I'm told the car is technically driveable in that it will move on its own, but the shop said when you go around a turn is when it "does its' thing" (makes pretty ugly noises). The PO also said it was making noises from the rear end and bucking when pulling from a stop. I asked the shop if they're sure it's the rear, and they said they were.

I'm probably going to try to swap the diff myself, but in my garage. My mechanical skills are still very limited, never tried this before. So I'd rather get it home and in my garage where I can take my time working on it.

I towed a 944 backwards on a tow dolly for about 60 miles. Steering wheel locked. Only problem I had was the sunroof panel blowing out..... knowing the issues with 944 sunroofs I should have known better and taped it.

I have a fullsize car trailer, but there was no way I was getting to the location this car was in with it and my truck and trailer, so I used the dolly and pulled backwards..

AAA had to tow me a short distance, backwards. Aside from the steering column locked with the vehicle shut off, the guy also put a rachet strap around a spoke of the steering wheel, and around the brake pedal and cranked it down tight as backup.

He towed me to his nearby shop, had me switched to a me to a flatbed truck at his shop to take me the rest of the way home.

I cant imagine you would want to do that long distance.

Could you pull the rear axles and tow it on a dolly normally?

I towed my Mustang for 1400 miles backwards on a tow dolly in 2010. The rear end was all screwed up and I was worried it would seize while being towed. I had zero issues. I made sure that the front wheels were exactly straight, locked the steering wheel and looped a ratcheting tie down through it. I checked it every time I stopped for fuel. It never budged an inch. The main thing is to make sure the wheels are pointed straight and DO NOT rely on the steering wheel locking mechanism to keep the wheel straight. If the lock breaks and the wheels turn, you are going to be in all sorts of trouble.

Stupid question: How do you lock the steering wheel and make sure the wheels are straight? Whenever I try the steering wheel still moves a bit before it catches and locks.

In reply to EvanB:

I had to play with it a bit. Took a couple of tries before I figured out how to compensate for the wheel turning before it locked. I was worried that if the wheels were turned just the slightest bit, I'd have all kinds of tracking/swaying issues. I guess luck had a bit to do with it too LOL.

Ok, that makes sense. I was just wondering if there was a special way to lock the steering wheel without moving it that everyone but me knew.

If I wind up making the trip myself, I'll probably just spend the $50 to rent a full size trailer from U-Haul. My minivan is rated to tow 3500lbs. The car weighs 2150, so I'd think I'll be under the limit. That would be the safest bet.

Uhaul trailers weight 2100 lbs and I believe they won't let you pull it with a minivan. Here is what the Uhaul site says about the tow vehicle:

Must weigh at least 3,500 lbs. (curb weight), and must equal or exceed 80% of the combined weight of the trailer (2,210 lbs.) and the vehicle being towed (up to 5,290 lbs.).

Must have a towing system that has a 5,000 lbs. minimum weight-carrying rating

Must have 1-7/8" or 2" hitch ball (5,000 lbs. minimum) "

Most likely they won't rent it to you, but you never know.

I towed a V-8 S-10 from Baltimore to Miami with no drama at all. Backwards on a tow dolly. Just be aware of the load behind you and the traffic in front of you, should be no trouble.

Klayfish wrote: It's currently at a shop, and the shop says the differential is toast. I've only got a tow dolly for my minivan. Anyone have experience towing a car backwards?

Ask the shop if you can install a diff when you get there and then fly in with one really heavy suitcase... drive it home.

stanger_missle wrote: I towed my Mustang for 1400 miles backwards on a tow dolly in 2010. The rear end was all screwed up and I was worried it would seize while being towed. I had zero issues. I made sure that the front wheels were exactly straight, locked the steering wheel and looped a ratcheting tie down through it. I checked it every time I stopped for fuel. It never budged an inch. The main thing is to make sure the wheels are pointed straight and DO NOT rely on the steering wheel locking mechanism to keep the wheel straight. If the lock breaks and the wheels turn, you are going to be in all sorts of trouble.

Towed my 240SX backwards for 1100 miles with no issues. I did have to take off my front spoiler to keep it from ripping off though.

There was a Miata at the ice races yeaterday and he towed all the way from Vermont backwards on a car dolly. Before steering column locks, we used to tie the steering wheel with clothes line and run it to both doors.

Holy crap, I didn't realize the U-Haul trailer is that heavy! Can't kill the van, that's the kiddie transport. That's the same reason I'm a bit concerned dollying backwards. If I ruin the kiddie transport, the wife will be a widow...of her own making. I was behind a guy on the highway once who was towing a small pick up backwards. Suddenly, it broke loose and swung all over. I can't believe the guy was able to get on the shoulder without flipping. Gauranteed his seat has a permanent brown spot though.

EvanB wrote: Stupid question: How do you lock the steering wheel and make sure the wheels are straight? Whenever I try the steering wheel still moves a bit before it catches and locks.

They don't actually have to be perfectly straight. Once the steering is locked, the car will find it's own track (though perhaps a bit sideways). It will just be a little wonky.

But I'd much rather tow with the rears on the ground if its gonna be for any serious distance.

failboat wrote: AAA had to tow me a short distance, backwards. Aside from the steering column locked with the vehicle shut off, the guy also put a rachet strap around a spoke of the steering wheel, and around the brake pedal and cranked it down tight as backup.

I would do this, or if I didn't have a ratchet strap I would either pass the seatbelt through the wheel and buckle it or loop a piece of rope around a steering wheel spoke and slam it in the door. You should be able to center the wheel enough that the car follows behind in your lane nicely. I would never trust the column lock more than a couple blocks, especially and older one. I have had several of them jump when I started to turn them.