Towing with an XJ?

I was fine for the 2 years I towed with mine.

I am pretty sure the lift was not benificial for towing. Good shocks and an add a leaf won't hurt.

Good pads and new fluid are a good idea, thats pretty much what I meant when I said make sure they are in working order. Make sure your rear drums are properly adjusted, that makes a big difference. If you want it to brake well upgrading to a disc brake rear end will help. Get one with the same gear ratio obviously.

For what you are looking to do with the truck you will be fine.

So I'm not nuts for thinking that an XJ with a 5.3/4L60 swap sounds pretty sweet?

Not to dig on the 4.0 - it's a hell of an engine - but I'd feel leery towing with any automatic that wasn't GM. And while I'm swapping the trans out... you know?

Knurled wrote: So I'm not nuts for thinking that an XJ with a 5.3/4L60 swap sounds pretty sweet? Not to dig on the 4.0 - it's a hell of an engine - but I'd feel leery towing with any automatic that wasn't GM. And while I'm swapping the trans out... you know?

The auto might very well be the strongest part of a 4.0 XJ, for what it's worth....

I had an XJ for several years, and towed a bunch with it. I'll echo that it will tow your planned load, but will need some upgrades to do it competently.

The aw4 trans is just fine, no problems. Put on a big ass trans cooler.

First, you need a brake controller. I have a tekonsha prodigy p3 and it is so much better than any other that I have used. You should also upgrade your pads. I ran Hawk HPS on mine, never had any fade.

You need more rear spring. The stock springs are soft for wheeling and flex, you need stiffness. I made my own leaf packs using the top leaf from the XJ, and most of a pack from a 3/4 dodge van, including the overload leaf. It worked very well, and gave about 2" of lift. I also had some decent Bilstein shocks.

Big hitch. Obviously, a 2" receiver. I also found that draw tite makes a front mount receiver for the XJ which when you hooked the trailer to it made close quarter maneuvering a real snap. It is also an excellent recovery or tow point for wheeling.

Aside from that, keep enough pressure in your tires and drive sane and you will be ok.

XJ brakes are bad enough with no load....get trailer brakes for sure!

Most of this is from towing with my 97 ZJ v8

Trans Cooler is most important I have the largest one Summit Racing has 15x10x0.75 IIRC and a temp gauge. I only use Mopar ATF+4 and change it once a year. AW4 is probably better than the 44RE I have.

Do the WJ brake/steering upgrade if you can weld. Vanco if you cant. Im still on stock brakes and steering, Ive driven with the WJ and Vanco and it is completely different.

The factory towing package in 97 was hitch+4pin a trailer brake harness under the dash (look for a 12ga blue wire by the steering column) 3.73 gears with a 4.0 and 75w-140 synthetic gear oil,

Good shocks, bushings, UPCountry package springs and Addico sways make for something that handles better than a large SUV should.

Weight distributing hitch is almost a must it makes everything better.

Transmission cooler and trailer brakes. Slow down on the hills. Make sure the XJ brakes are in good order (braking in general is not a jeeps strong suit) You will be fine towing 5000 lbs.

(My Jeep has 173K miles and it still pulls like a goat)

Rear disks from a later Jeep should bolt right on.

Are you sure it's a Dana 30 in the back? Could be a Chrysler 8 1/4". Still a decent rear. And Liberty rear disks are supposed to be the hot ticket for the swap. I haven't tried it yet. The other scroungers beat me to them in the yard before I can get there. 10 x 2.5" drums are fine when they are fresh.

I thought there was a front disk upgrade from a Grand Cherokee that would bolt up, but I haven't done the homework on that. Been collecting some pieces for the Comanche sitting out back.

Look into a weight distributing hitch. I got one when I was towing with my '96 Dakota. Still use it on my Ram 2500. Makes for a more comfortable ride too.

Rob_Mopar wrote: Rear disks from a later Jeep should bolt right on. Are you sure it's a Dana 30 in the back? Could be a Chrysler 8 1/4". Still a decent rear. And Liberty rear disks are supposed to be the hot ticket for the swap. I haven't tried it yet. The other scroungers beat me to them in the yard before I can get there. 10 x 2.5" drums are fine when they are fresh. I thought there was a front disk upgrade from a Grand Cherokee that would bolt up, but I haven't done the homework on that. Been collecting some pieces for the Comanche sitting out back. Look into a weight distributing hitch. I got one when I was towing with my '96 Dakota. Still use it on my Ram 2500. Makes for a more comfortable ride too.

I'm reasonably sure it's a Dana 30. From what i'm finding (but i should get under it and double check) i should have the AW4/NP242/Dana 30s front and rear on this thing.

This thread has been confidence inspiring, i really appreciate everyone's input, and it looks like i've got one more vehicle to modify.

Is there any value into letting the motor breathe a little better in this case? I've heard there's power to be had with an intake, but the stock setup doesn't exactly look "bad" to me either, so i'm undecided.

Engine, it is fine. General tune up stuff. The only way to get any more reliable power is to get the crank out of a AMC 258 and bore it out to 4.5 or 4.7. I have seen 4.9 as well but fuel economy drops off the already somewhat poor mpg.

oh as far as the rear end. A Grand Cherokee Chrysler 8.25 rear end swap can be done in an afternoon. You get disc brakes in the process.

(my XJ has this swap)

EricM wrote: oh as far as the rear end. A Grand Cherokee Chrysler 8.25 rear end swap can be done in an afternoon. You get disc brakes in the process. (my XJ has this swap)

Does that change gearing at all? Is that rear end about as strong as the Dana 30? (Assuming that's what i have)

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

EricM wrote: oh as far as the rear end. A Grand Cherokee Chrysler 8.25 rear end swap can be done in an afternoon. You get disc brakes in the process. (my XJ has this swap)

Does that change gearing at all? Is that rear end about as strong as the Dana 30? (Assuming that's what i have)

same gearing ratios as the Dana 30, well the same range if gears anyway. It is a little stronger than the Dana 30, the biggest benefit is the Disk brakes. If you go to tires greater than 30" then you have to look at final drive ratio, I use 29" tires and have the stock gearing in the rear end, though I am not exactly sure which one, towing packages lowered the gearing on most Jeeps. My rear end came from the local auto recycling yard.

EricM wrote:

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

EricM wrote: oh as far as the rear end. A Grand Cherokee Chrysler 8.25 rear end swap can be done in an afternoon. You get disc brakes in the process. (my XJ has this swap)

Does that change gearing at all? Is that rear end about as strong as the Dana 30? (Assuming that's what i have)

same gearing ratios as the Dana 30, well the same range if gears anyway. It is a little stronger than the Dana 30, the biggest benefit is the Disk brakes. If you go to tires greater than 30" then you have to look at final drive ratio, I use 29" tires and have the stock gearing in the rear end, though I am not exactly sure which one, towing packages lowered the gearing on most Jeeps. My rear end came from the local auto recycling yard.

And because i'm RWD stupid... changing rear end does not involve re-calibrating speedo, correct?

In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:

Speedo recorrection is only if you change the overall height of the tires and/or rear gear numerically.

Ranger50 wrote: In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac: Speedo recorrection is only if you change the overall height of the tires and/or rear gear numerically.

So different rear end ratio = speedo correction?

<---- RWD noob.

In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:

Say you have 3.55's right now and go to 4.10, let's say. You will need to correct the speedo. The converse also holds true.

But if you are going from a 3.55 Dana to a 3.55 Corporate 8 1/4, no.

Ranger50 wrote: In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac: Say you have 3.55's right now and go to 4.10, let's say. You will need to correct the speedo. The converse also holds true. But if you are going from a 3.55 Dana to a 3.55 Corporate 8 1/4, no.

Booooooooo.....

Then how come people don't mention this with the Miata rear end swaps? Sadface.

I'm turning about 2400rpms @ 70mph right now in the Cherokee i think. I'm guessing for towing i could probably stand to get a higher rear end... (Although i think it's pretty flat all the way to Lincoln.)

Trailer brakes are a must for any towing above a small utility trailer (500-750 LBS). And usually required.

^Thanks Jeff.

In addition...

Looks like G2 Axle and Gear rear disk kits are reasonably priced, seem to be made with quality parts. Easier than trying to source all the stuff i need out of junkyards, seems a Chrysler 8.25" has more bolt on options than the Dana my jeep has. (Confirmed Dana 35.) I'm thinking about getting that and pairing with a Vanco upgraded front kit if they go on sale. Otherwise, $750 is a bit rich, unless someone tells me it's really worth it.

B&M trans cooler is reasonably priced and looks like an easy install. Same with the B&M trans temp gauge.

Trailer lighting harnesses are cheap and PNP.

This looks like it would go too well... there's got to be a catch somewhere, since it's you know... my vehicle.

I think you need a taillight converter not just a harness about $20 at Uhual and keeps you from blowing fuses and bulbs.

Check out the WJ Brake Upgrade for a cheaper and better solution than the vancos

BoneYard_Racing wrote: I think you need a taillight converter not just a harness about $20 at Uhual and keeps you from blowing fuses and bulbs. Check out the WJ Brake Upgrade for a cheaper and better solution than the vancos

Cool thank you.

(edit)

Hrmmm... the WJ front upgrade seems to be not clear at all... tons of conflicting information... Is there a "Kit" somewhere for this upgrade?

I'm not sure if i'm going to end up doing that one, to be quite honest... doesn't fit under the stock wheels and that's another can of worms i'm trying to avoid.

EricM wrote: Engine, it is fine. General tune up stuff. The only way to get any more reliable power is to get the crank out of a AMC 258 and bore it out to 4.5 or 4.7. I have seen 4.9 as well but fuel economy drops off the already somewhat poor mpg.

How do these engines respond to turbo charging? I'm thinking LPT (light pressure turbo) in the 7 to 10 psi range, just to give it some extra kick when it needs it, and hopefully not make it a complete gas hog.

I watch all these XJ threads with interest, I would like to have an inexpensive tow vehicle myself in the not to distant future, for towing a single car open trailer or a camper, and whatever I wind up with will have to do double duty as the familys backup DD.

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: ^Thanks Jeff. In addition... Looks like G2 Axle and Gear rear disk kits are reasonably priced, seem to be made with quality parts. Easier than trying to source all the stuff i need out of junkyards, seems a Chrysler 8.25" has more bolt on options than the Dana my jeep has. (Confirmed Dana 35.) I'm thinking about getting that and pairing with a Vanco upgraded front kit if they go on sale. Otherwise, $750 is a bit rich, unless someone tells me it's really worth it. B&M trans cooler is reasonably priced and looks like an easy install. Same with the B&M trans temp gauge. Trailer lighting harnesses are cheap and PNP. This looks like it would go too well... there's got to be a catch somewhere, since it's you know... my vehicle.

Having gone this route, you really could skip all the work of the axle swap, it just isn't really necessary running stock-ish size tires, even if you have a locker and are wheeling. If you go up to 33s, then you will need an axle upgrade. If you want to do an axle swap, an 8.8 out of an Exploder are cheap and available, have disc brakes, frequently have a limited slip, area already setup for leaf springs (GC's have coils), and have the right wheel bolt pattern for an XJ already.

Seriously, though, you really really will need more rear spring. At the very least an add a leaf, but there are better solutions.

http://www.evilmonkeymedia.com/dl/wjsteering.htm

This guy is making it about 700% harder than he has to. http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/knuckles/index.htm

My understanding is you need the hub,knuckles,and, brakes off the WJ. Rustys off road makes the hub spacer http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=RC-RAM11&Category_Code=STOP

Anyone can make the caliper spacers with a drill press.