Latest round of battles with my R block.
I have a 20R, and the general internet knowledge is that stock 20R carbs suck. Being that I live in Cali, a smog-legal Weber is $400+, and I have a perfectly good 22R carb sitting in my garage, as well as an LC Engineering adapter plate to mount it on my 20R intake manifold.
However, I'm a total newb when it comes to the vacuum system. I understand a little bit, that there's at least two different kinds of vacuum ports on the carb (high idle vacuum that decreases with rpm and low idle vacuum that increases with rpm), but I'm not sure how to identify which ports are what.
Here's the vacuum diagrams I'm working with:
The one from my Celica:
And the carb's donor vehicle's:
Thanks for any help, guys and gals.
Personally, I think it would be cheaper and easier to move out the the PRC. After that, buy the $400 Weber. Then, if you insist on trying to put a 22R carb (the horror...) on a 20R, cap everything off, start uncapping something and stick it to one of the vacuum lines from your car. Good luck. Really, the 22R carb must have 30 hoses on it. It is a total, nightmare. Then it is a piece of crap. The auto choke mechanism is like $150 by itself. And it goes bad.
Dr. Hess wrote:
Personally, I think it would be cheaper and easier to move out the the PRC. After that, buy the $400 Weber. Then, if you insist on trying to put a 22R carb (the horror...) on a 20R, cap everything off, start uncapping something and stick it to one of the vacuum lines from your car. Good luck. Really, the 22R carb must have 30 hoses on it. It is a total, nightmare. Then it is a piece of crap. The auto choke mechanism is like $150 by itself. And it goes bad.
Well, insofar as the choke, I can continue to use my 20R's water choke (it bolts right on in place of the 22Rs bimetal spring unit), with the advantage that the 22R carb has a choke breaker.
I can get a Weber 32/36 for under $100 if I was wouldn't get popped for it, $400 is for the CA-approved version.
Now you see why people have scrapped most of those cars in california, it is expensive to keep them running. The best thing to do would be to just buy the $400 carb, but it wouldnt hurt to try the other one if you can make it look like it hasnt been messed with. I wouldnt change anything thats hard to put back to stock though.
