carguy123 said:
Let me sum up what I think I now know.
Some transaxles have a drive shaft input. I didn't know that.
The 924/944 are MIA, but while some say they would work, others say they won't hold the torque. They apparently have the driveshaft input.
Audi 01Es from an 968 is 944 replacement and uses driveshaft input. It is 2wd & has a 40% ZF LSD or Torsen, but the picture someone posted shows it has a huge bell housing which would be a problem to make work.
The Corvette trans axle would definitely work, but the trans sits in front of the diff instead of behind so that would make one hell of a transmission tunnel (or a really long wheel base) plus it's heavy.
I still have no idea what the transaxle Jumper K Balls posted is, but I like the form factor.
"A odd choice but shockingly affordable is the Renault PRV from a Delorean available for under 4k." I haven't found any info on it nor any way to get one over here.
I still don't know how to tell if a Subie transmission has an LSD, but the STI trans for some reason somehow doesn't make for a good rear mount.
I'll have better luck finding an LSD in the VAG trans.
While I haven't confirmed it, apparently the VAG trans is physically bigger than the Subie.
Have I missed anything?
Drive shaft input = IDEAL since then I only have to make one bell housing on the engine end instead of one for the diff too.
IIRC the 944 had some sort of way to move the driveshaft back so that the clutch could be replaced without removing the engine. Does anyone know what that is?
Um, the 924 Turbo and 944 transaxle will handle the power, they are quite literally Audi FWD transaxles. People say they won't because they abuse the crap out of them with drag launches with a V8 and sticky tires on 20+ year old hardware.
The same basic units are used in GT40 and Lamborghini replicas with V8's, V10's and V12's. There are some things that can be done to improve their longevity and withstand abuse.
Rebuilding them with proper tolerances, a limited slip and 944 Turbo parts will help. There's a tailshaft brace you can make and install to help reduce 3rd breakage.
The trick will be the input shaft is splined like a normal input shaft, but it doesn't have a pot for a pilot bearing and there's no clutch mechanism mounting parts, plus there's a hole where the shiftlinkage passes through. Its possible as the case for the 2wd and the AWD 016 is the same, aside from the extra machine work on the 924/944 versions.
This link might help: http://flussigmagazine.com/der-houmlhepunkt/g31-transaxles-016083-transaxles-and-01e-supplement
As for moving the driveshaft back to change the clutch? That's simply removing the mounts for the transaxle in the rear, removing the bellhousing bolts at the back of the engine and sliding the entire apparatus backwards. Think of the the torque tube as just a really long bellhousing and input shaft. Most pull the transaxle since you can move the TT back further to get better access to the clutch or they pull the engine and inspect it, etc. The Porsche techs who had to replace the rubber center clutch discs at book rate, figured out the slide it back trick since they had to move quickly.