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m4ff3w
m4ff3w GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
9/16/10 1:13 p.m.

How much boost are you running, Mr. Tuna?

Spool speed on the 16t was slightly slower but from 12-20 psi is where I really noticed the difference between the 16t and 13c.

tuna55
tuna55 Dork
9/16/10 1:57 p.m.

15 psi for now with a combo of the mbc and the actuator on a blind guess. The blind guess on the actuator seems pretty goo, with no real boost spike. I don't yet know about adjusting the actuator for faster spool or anything, but it seems a bit slower, which I expected. After a few weeks of no leaking and water cooling, I'll crank her to about 20.

As far as the water cooling, I think a co-worker may have figured it out. The bottom of the bolt may seal against the center section, and the bolt from the 13c may be too short. $5 at the dealer, but not in stock, so I'll try that first.

tuna55
tuna55 Dork
9/16/10 2:40 p.m.

Oh, and a "by the way". The intake turbine wheel was white and crusty - it had obviously gotten quite hot. The endplay was a much-less-then-anticipated 3/16". The bearing had basically fallen apart and was free on the shaft in yaw, endplay and side/side. After getting frustrated a few times at 3 AM I threw it into my driveway, so the endplay might be a touch more now.

Junkyard_Dog
Junkyard_Dog Dork
9/19/10 9:25 p.m.

Glad you're getting closer. Keep us updated on what the leak was.

My 15g is in as well. I think my stock unit was a bit more tired than yours since there is a huge power difference. Now I just need to wire the E-fan, which I also highly recommend!

tuna55
tuna55 Dork
9/20/10 1:38 p.m.
Junkyard_Dog wrote: Glad you're getting closer. Keep us updated on what the leak was. My 15g is in as well. I think my stock unit was a bit more tired than yours since there is a huge power difference. Now I just need to wire the E-fan, which I also highly recommend!

Did you not catch the 1/4" endplay and massive oil smoke at idle? Maybe it made more power, but it is definitely worn to death.

tuna55
tuna55 Dork
9/20/10 7:15 p.m.

OK, got the new banjos. They looked the same. Went back to the old copper washer under the head of the bolt, tightened until I couldn't tighten no mo', and they still leaked, like I just poured it out of the fitting. Not. Even. Close. I have no earthly idea.

ignorant
ignorant SuperDork
9/20/10 7:24 p.m.
tuna55 wrote: OK, got the new banjos. They looked the same. Went back to the old copper washer under the head of the bolt, tightened until I couldn't tighten no mo', and they still leaked, like I just poured it out of the fitting. Not. Even. Close. I have no earthly idea.

Most of our water fittings at holset used viton o-rings. Work betters..

tuna55
tuna55 Dork
9/20/10 7:28 p.m.
ignorant wrote:
tuna55 wrote: OK, got the new banjos. They looked the same. Went back to the old copper washer under the head of the bolt, tightened until I couldn't tighten no mo', and they still leaked, like I just poured it out of the fitting. Not. Even. Close. I have no earthly idea.
I wonder if the washer is crushed too much and the bolt is too long. You're therfore bottoming out the bolt before it seals. Try a new washer?

I tried a new washer in a previous iteration (went with the oldie this time because the ID is slightly different). I also tried a new washer under the head of the bolt AND a new washer under the banjo at the same time, so I doubt the bolt is bottoming.

tuna55
tuna55 Dork
9/20/10 7:45 p.m.
ignorant wrote:
tuna55 wrote: OK, got the new banjos. They looked the same. Went back to the old copper washer under the head of the bolt, tightened until I couldn't tighten no mo', and they still leaked, like I just poured it out of the fitting. Not. Even. Close. I have no earthly idea.
Most of our water fittings at holset used viton o-rings. Work betters..

OK Mr. you can't just go changing your post after I've quoted it, you get me all screwed up. That being said, I like this idea. I may grab some at work tomorrow. Do you use them both under the head and under the banjo?

ignorant
ignorant SuperDork
9/20/10 9:00 p.m.
tuna55 wrote:
ignorant wrote:
tuna55 wrote: OK, got the new banjos. They looked the same. Went back to the old copper washer under the head of the bolt, tightened until I couldn't tighten no mo', and they still leaked, like I just poured it out of the fitting. Not. Even. Close. I have no earthly idea.
Most of our water fittings at holset used viton o-rings. Work betters..
OK Mr. you can't just go changing your post after I've quoted it, you get me all screwed up. That being said, I like this idea. I may grab some at work tomorrow. Do you use them both under the head and under the banjo?

no banjos.. We used a threaded angled adaptors that went in there. To be honest, most of the stuff we did wasn't a watercooled turbo, Gas engines run hotter and therefore require them for bearing life. We used water cooled bearing housings on the VG's to protect some of the delicate bits inside. To be honest, this is one advantage of journal bearings. They can stand a bit more abuse with heat if you just keep them fed with super amounts of oil. Stop the oil and I can write books about what goes wrong.

Now we used banjos on our water cooled turbine housings, but to get them to seal the torque specs were through the freaking roof(mind you they were 1/2" + banjos). 150ft-lbs I think..

Sorry about changing the post.. I read back earlier and realized that you already tried the washers and it was a stupid suggestion.

tuna55
tuna55 Dork
9/22/10 9:02 p.m.

Got it. Finally. Needed a copper washer under the banjo and the head of the bolt, and it needed to be TIGHT. All done, sorta. I still need to fix the exhaust, but this will work for now.

Hurray!

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