Interior pics are sparse, and with my luck lately, that means it's a ratbox inside
https://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/4923008559.html
Research shows these going north of $6k. What gives?
Would want a thorough PPI...
Interior pics are sparse, and with my luck lately, that means it's a ratbox inside
https://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/4923008559.html
Research shows these going north of $6k. What gives?
Would want a thorough PPI...
Assume it needs a full timimg belt and water pump change for upwards of $1k, and it is the 'less desirable' PD engine, but other than that seems like it just might be priced a good bit below market value from what I've seen locally for the ever elusive manual TDI wagon.
Mk4 wagons tend to attract a lot of interest and its a TDi to boot. I think KBB is full of E36 M3 on that one.
Driven5 wrote: Assume it needs a full timimg belt and water pump change for upwards of $1k, and it is the 'less desirable' PD engine, but other than that seems like it just might be priced a good bit below market value from what I've seen locally for the ever elusive manual TDI wagon.
Is that parts cost or labor+parts? Should be able to do it myself.
That's TDI specialist shop rates. I think the parts to do it "right" run ~$350 or so. There are TDI "gurus" on TDIclub that will do it for somewhere in between. You can do it yourself, but there are a few specialty tools you'll have to buy first. The PD (BEW) is very sensitive to the type and weight of oil used, and subsequently the cam should also be checked for excessive wear.
I would be looking for a TDIclub recommended specialist/guru for the PPI.
You guys sure like to spend a lot of money on 10+ year old cars.
Locally, that would be the most expensive 04 manual TDI wagon for sell on the market. And they all have less miles.
fanfoy wrote: You guys sure like to spend a lot of money on 10+ year old cars.Locally, that would be the most expensive 04 manual TDI wagon for sell on the market. And they all have less miles.
Where's that? I've got loads of time for fly'n'drives.
bigdaddylee82 wrote: That's an '04 so wouldn't be an ALH instead of a PD?
No. '04 was the first year for the PD. Price is more or less in line, from what I've seen.
Fnafoy - please post these cheap TDI wagons you've found. Otherwise you're just being a troll. edit: I see you're in Canadia... VW A4 TDI wagons were much more common up there than in the states. Not quite a unicorn down here, but still somewhat rare.
In reply to fanfoy: That's because you're in Canada. If you guys got E39, E46,E60, and other chassis BMW diesels, that would drive down all Volkswagen diesel prices.
If that's the best price in your area, I would get it inspected and jump on it. In my area, a few are finally getting to the $3K range; I'm going to jump on those.
I test drove a Golf TDI with an auto, and it's not quite right. The TDI's need a manual IMO because the powerband is so narrow and is so low in the rpm range.
In reply to Mr_Clutch42:
Yes, they are cars that tend to encourage short-shifting, although it's a good idea to give the engine an "Italian tune-up" once a day in an effort to keep the turbo clear.
The ALH and PD each have their own quirks. The ALH is arguably easier to work on and is generally more efficient. It's also quite a bit dirtier (marginal emissions controls), which is why they changed to the PD engine. A stock ALH can be made to "roll coal" without much effort (I found it a great way to piss off tail-gaters). A bit harder to do with a PD.
idparts.com sells the tools to change the timing belt on either. They aren't terribly expensive. The most pricey thing is VAG-COM/VCDS (ross-tech.com) which you need to check and micro-adjust the injection timing post belt change.
224k miles will spook a lot of people. The side picture looks like it's got mismatched paint between the rear fender and rear door.
TDIs do go for $$$$$ depending on the area. They also take a lot of money in maintenance though too. Assume the timing belt was done wrong and needs to be changed right away, it probably needs cam and lifters no matter what at that mileage, especially if it had the wrong (as in not the exact oil from the dealer) used, full suspension rebuild, probably clutch and turbo in the next 75k miles, etc. SO it would really be more like an $8k car, but might be fine after that.
That seems like a perfectly normal (i.e. slightly optimistic) listing price for that car. It probably won't even sell for the full $4500.
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