So I put new bushings in the swaybar end links on our ‘Sploder last night (1997 V8 Explorer 2wd) because the old ones had ceased to exist on one side. (which makes it FUN in a crosswind with a trailer, BTW) Instead of paying $40+ for a pair of Moog endlinks, I found a set of universal Energy Urethane bushings with washers that are the right size and reused the hardware since it was fine. I had to drill the metal washers’ inner diameter about 1/16” but then everything worked great. But now I have an odd sound. When sitting still or very slowly rolling ( think parking space) I get a strong shudder when I turn the wheel. Like, strong enough to make the dash rattle a little. Is it because I didn’t grease the bushings, or could it be that they’re too tight? Anybody with experience on this?
On the plus side, it drives much better now!
It only happens at low speed? I guess it's possible that too much friction at the bushings could cause such a thing but I've never heard of it. Also it shouldn't be speed-dependent, it should be dependent on roll rate.
Side to side body roll ( the kind sway bars control) causes no issues, only turning the front wheels left/right. The shudder is bad enough sitting still that the whole truck shakes.
That can't possibly be the end links, can it? Did a ball joint bite the dust in horrible fashion while sitting at full droop while you played with the end links?
This isn't some crazy vehicle where there's rotational motion at the end links, is it?
I mean, any motion of the steering sitting still(ish) should have negligible motion at the end links unless it's an E30 M3 style arrangement where end links attach to the struts, but those use ball joints, not bushing sandwiches...
I actually checked both ball joints and all the control arm bushings for wear while I had it in the air. They look good, and I did the ball joints less than 20k miles ago.
I did also rotate the tires, but that seems even less likely to cause this than the bushings. I think I'll find some silicone spray and soak the end links. If they're binding, it should make SOME kind of difference.
It just doesn't make sense to me either.
ransom wrote:
I mean, any motion of the steering sitting still(ish) should have *negligible* motion at the end links unless it's an E30 M3 style arrangement where end links attach to the struts, but those use ball joints, not bushing sandwiches...
There will be some motion, remember that when you turn the steering from the center position you're also lifting the front of the car slightly which would cause some rotation at the end links.
Still it doesn't make a lot of sense for this to be the end links...
It's a Ford. They couldn't build a 80-90's era PS pump to save their life. I'm betting that since you did tighten up the front end, you are causing the pump to work harder. That leads to the jerking shudder in the wheel now. Or if the pump has a separate reservoir with an inlet screen in it, it is clogged up with junk. There is a similar problem with RS-body Caravans.
Ranger50 wrote:
It's a Ford. They couldn't build a 80-90's era PS pump to save their life. I'm betting that since you did tighten up the front end, you are causing the pump to work harder. That leads to the jerking shudder in the wheel now. Or if the pump has a separate reservoir with an inlet screen in it, it is clogged up with junk. There is a similar problem with RS-body Caravans.
This... usually with old ford while you have it in the air if you've turned the wheel with the motor off you empty the fluid out of the rack... with a weak or bad pump, now you get problems...
double check your serpentine belt as well though.. make sure the tensioner isn't getting weak as well..
crazycanadian wrote:
Ranger50 wrote:
It's a Ford. They couldn't build a 80-90's era PS pump to save their life. I'm betting that since you did tighten up the front end, you are causing the pump to work harder. That leads to the jerking shudder in the wheel now. Or if the pump has a separate reservoir with an inlet screen in it, it is clogged up with junk. There is a similar problem with RS-body Caravans.
This... usually with old ford while you have it in the air if you've turned the wheel with the motor off you empty the fluid out of the rack... with a weak or bad pump, now you get problems...
double check your serpentine belt as well though.. make sure the tensioner isn't getting weak as well..
Ahh..now this makes sense, I did exactly that - crank the wheel back and forth, engine off and truck raised. So...how do you reprime the rack? Sure the pump is old ( 200k miles) but I've never had any other issues. I cringe at the thought of replacing it, but....
Serp is less than 2yrs/10k miles old (doesn't get driven much) , but I'll have to check the tensioner.
Raise the wheels back off the ground, lock to lock to lock 3 or 4 times with the engine and PS filler cap off. Check fluid level and fill as needed. Start engine and do the same thing again. Lower vehicle, put cap on, and drive away. Done.
and THAT's why I love this forum. Thanks.
It's somewhat normal after working on an Explorer wheels-drooped that the steering will shudder for a while. It's maddening and frustrating but it does go away.
