V-band turbo woes

This is just getting better and better.

I went to go install my new turbo on my MX6 today, and realized one very big problem. Yes, it was the same turbo that is on the MX6 currently. HOWEVER, the turbo on the MX6 has the compressor housing clocked 180 degrees, and the center section with the oil fittings and such is clocked 90 degrees.

It took all of 5 minutes to clock the compressor housing, gravy! The welding the wastegate flapper shut went well, too.

Next step, the middle. I got the actual band off the turbo, then proceeded to spend the next 3 hours trying fruitlessly to get it to rotate. I can see the seam where it connects, but after going through half a can of PB Blaster, trying channel locks, hammer, etc.... i can't get the sucker off.

I STILL haven't been able to get it. I can physically install the turbo in it's present state, but the oil return line will be going straight towards the block parallel to the ground instead of pointing down like it should be, and i'd have to do some tweaking of my other lines.

Does anyone have any experience breaking 10-20 year old V Band turbos loose? What tricks, tips, etc do you all have?

There is probably a locating pin preventing it from rotating. It should come straight off without any rotating, rubber mallet taps may separate the housings.

My tip would be to find a newer turbo, that has the same bolt pattern as the one you currently have, but I'm a go the path of least resistance route type of person.

wherethefmi wrote: My tip would be to find a newer turbo, that has the same bolt pattern as the one you currently have, but I'm a go the path of least resistance route type of person.

There's nothing really newer.... it's a Supra CT26. I have my choice of Celica/MR2 CT26s which are inferior turbos and harder to find, or the CT20B which runs about $700 for a good example.

I LOVE the way these turbos feel on this car, and this turbo is in excellent shape, i just am at a loss as to how to continue.

daytonaer wrote: There is probably a locating pin preventing it from rotating. It should come straight off without any rotating, rubber mallet taps may separate the housings.

Hrmmm.... more info? The compressor and exhaust housing separated with no problems.

The part that i'm having a problem with is breaking the middle section loose from the exhaust housing. They've been held together for years with a two-piece circle clamp, looks vaguely like a nasty strong exhaust clamp, and i'm afraid they may have fused together.

You're saying that the section with the oil return line fitting should just come right off, even though the shaft/wheel is still installed? I would have thought because of the way the turbo is put together that the middle holds the shaft somehow, and i can't completely take it off without disassembling the whole thing, but i should be able to rotate it that 90 degrees i need.

You're probably right, i'm just having a hard time visualizing it.

As an ex turbo engineer... Here goes.

1. don't weld waste gate flappers shut. Great way to introduce FOD and ruin your turbo. It may not destroy the turbo in one go, but your performance will degrade.......

2. dead blow hammer will remove the turbine housing. Be careful. Do not try to turn it, just knock it off straight.. Clean the flanges and then reassemble. There may be a dowel pin holding the two together, in a certain orientation. If that dosen't work, try an air chisel with a blunt tip to vibrate it off... From then on my tips are destructive in nature.

I have to weld the flapper shut. I'm using an external gate instead of the provided internal gate.

I got the housing loose. Can i take the whole housing off without removing the turbine? How important is that dowel pin? The round circle metal bracket thingy holding the pieces together seems EXTREMELY strong, based on how hard it was to get the damn thing off even after i got the bolts out of it.

My issue is that i doubt there are holes every 90 degrees around the housing for the dowel pin. I can see it, and it makes me mad.

Thanks!

Separating the center section fron the exhaust housing is fun! You'll need some patience, pb, a mini slegde and a small prybar separator thing (never a flatblade screw driver ala snap-on warning).

Start tapping the prybar all the way around the seam with the hammer. Work it slowly because it needs to come off evenly so it doesn't contact the turbine. A good bench and a heavy hammer is the trick. I banged on my first re-clock for 2 hours with a 2lb rubber mallet. Pulled out the 8lb mini sledge and 5 minutes later it was separarted.

Don't worry about the dowel pin, pull it or grind it, and the nature of the v-band will re-center the housing on the center section.

Instead of welding the wastegate shut, you could fab up a quick bracket to keep it closed out of a threaded rod and ends. Simple and reverse-able.

later, matt

xFactor wrote: Don't worry about the dowel pin, pull it or grind it, and the nature of the v-band will re-center the housing on the center section. Instead of welding the wastegate shut, you could fab up a quick bracket to keep it closed out of a threaded rod and ends. Simple and reverse-able.

yeah don't worry about the pin... They use the pin for clocking the parts on the assembly line. Its a failsafe to make sure you have the right orientation all the time...

otherwise good advice

Put the compressor housing back on and whale on it with a BFH. Problem solved.

I used a rubber mallet on mine after soaking it will penetrant for a few days.

93gsxturbo wrote: Put the compressor housing back on and whale on it with a BFH. Problem solved.

Uh.... what? I don't think you actually read the question. The problem has nothing to do with the compressor housing, that was just a basic clock involving nothing more than a big snap ring.

Thanks for all the advice guys, you've all convinced me that i can actually accomplish this myself, instead of having to pay someone to do it.

I actually broke the turbo loose yesterday, now i just have to go ahead and completely separate it.