https://www.youtube.com/embed/6mTiipO9IZI
The E90-chassis BMW 3 Series may be one of the best performance bargains on the market today. Starting with the already powerful N54 engine, see how BimmerWorld transformed a used 335i into a seriously capable, street-legal track machine—so fast, in fact, that it beat both the Toyota GR Supra and Honda Civic Type R. Presented by CRC Industries …
It is getting harder to convince myself not to buy an older N54-powered BMW after this track day.
In reply to ChrisTropea :
Same. Also realizing that maybe I should have purchased my parents' wagon--not the same engine, I know, but still....
In reply to David S. Wallens :
Even without the N54 wagons are always cool.
I still can't get past this generation of vehicles needing rod bearings so frequently. It's completely inexcusable for a vehicle that costs as much as BMW. The includes the S54, S65, N55s have rod bearing issues as well.
I love my 09 E92 335. Every time I think I want a new fun car I hop in the 335 and the feeling disappears. Mine has 378 RWHP and it's plenty fast. Gets 26 MPG at 80 mph, great seats, heated steering wheel and looks great. I will say that you should have the rear camber set to about neg 1° if you want those expensive rear tires to last more than 5000 miles. Stock spec is neg 2°!
We had a 335i back in the day, and it was way cool--terrific street car that seemed to hold much potential. On track, yeah, it ran into cooling issues. That was its downfall. Looks like we were (again) a tick too ahead of the curve as now those issues have been resolved by the aftermarket.
Look for a deeper dive on this car in the magazine, too. It's time.
I drove an E90 335i 6MT when they first came out and really liked it. The thing that always turned me off about these (besides the engine issues) was the fact that they had no LSD. That's a lot of torque going to one wheel. I'm not sure if this car has an LSD or not.
I know you can buy a diff for them, but it's not a trivial amount of money. I suppose it makes more sense now that they have gotten cheaper.
Impressive performance!
In reply to ChrisTropea :
Late model N54/S54 BMWs are tempting but I've heard so many issues about oil leaks on everything from valve covers (relatively simple) to engine-out jobs to reach others seals and more.
Has anyone compiled a 'bulletbroofing checklist' for these cars/powertrains with either OEM or aftermarket parts or are they consigned to low resale 'run 'er till she blows' markets?
Friend has a 135 with a Dinan tune that he keeps offering me temptingly cheap. I know I'll likely spend twice what I paid for it trying to keep the motor from grenading.
In reply to TheFlyingClutchman :
They're old BMWs who appeal much more to the sideways hat crowd than members of the BMWCCA they're pretty well confined to low resale value. Thankfully this means you can have a truly incredible car for next to nothing. They're also not nearly as crummy as people suggest and there is no reasonable service that requires drivetrain removal.
Common failures and solutions:
Early car (07-08) ecu failure: Injector drivers can be replaced by any electronics repair place. Alternatively the later MSD81 ECU is an easy retrofit with the right software.
Injectors: Common and expensive fault, if your car has never had a FULL SET replaced under warranty/recall action BMW will install and program a set at no charge. If you have to pay for 'em FCP Euro is the go to, not the cheapest but close and lifetime replacement.
High Pressure Fuel Pump: The later revision and aftermarket pumps seem pretty stout this honestly isn't a big problem anymore. The sub $200 aftermarket pumps are surprisingly okay.
Water pump: Again the early pump was kinda junky but the aftermarket seems better. Currently over 100k on a VDO pump on my personal car.
Carbon build up: It's a DI engine walnut blast every 30k if stock, 50k with a good catch-can setup, or never with reworked PCV and/or port/methanol injection
Leaks: Yeah they leak from everywhere. Valve cover is very common but it's not a gasket failure, replacement plastic covers are out there for $100 and work for awhile, the BMW plastic cover is the best but close to $500, M18 and VTT both now make cast aluminum valve covers expensive at $600ish but no more issues. Those covers also allow you to rework the PCV system helping to prevent blowing other gaskets out. Oil filter housing gasket is common and important as it pukes oil onto the belt drive, if the belt fails on one of these it will almost certainly be sucked into the timing chain assembly. Oil pan gasket is another very common one. It's hot under the hood of these things gaskets fail. Replace neglected gaskets with good replacements and ignore for a long time.
Misfires: Stock ignition system is garbage N55 Eldor coils are the drop in and go upgrade, I prefer for the money the Precisions Raceworks coil kit
Turbos: This again is largely over with, the wastegate arm bushings in the BMW turbos aren't great and you end up with rattling wastegates and boost control problems. Lots of non BMW turbos out there fairly inexpensive that cure this.
The new one seems to be mysterious low compression on a cylinder or two, the fact is these things are cheap and make big power easily they routinely get the tar beaten out of them without mercy.
Rod bearings: I simply disagree with the rod bearing fault... I cant say I recall an N54 having rod bearing failure without cause. That said given the age and mileage of most of these cars many have worn (note I didn't say failed) bearings it's reasonable to replace them if you're in there
If a stock stock N54 car came into the shop (few are) with an enthusiast owner asking for it to be bulletproofed" my recommendation would likely be as follows
M18 Valve cover
Atmosphere vented crankcase
Precision Raceworks Coils
Front main seal retainer/guard plate
New tensionser and idiler pullies, Gates Racing belt
VDO water pump and thermostat housing
Mahle upgraded oil filter housing gaskets, Burger motorsport oil cooler valve. Factory oil cooler at an absolute minimum
Index 12 fuel injectors
Carbon cleaning
Redline fluids in differential(s) and transmission. Liquimoly 5w40 in the crankcase.
Aluminum cylinder head water fitting
Replace as much under hood rubber as budget will allow.
Metal charge pipe and cone intakes
MHD tune (necessary for the coil upgrade)
This is an easy 350hp car you could drive to the moon. Intercooler, charge pipes, and downpipes make a nearly 500hp car you could drive to the moon.
My car is close to 200k early last year it was driven from PA to NH without so much as opening the hood, in the fall I drove from PA to The Dragon and then straight across NC to a wedding (yes my best friend from college is a dolt who got married during COVID) the only thing I didn't feel uneasy about all weekend was the car. In the six years I've owned mine it has done three years back to back as a sales repmobile driving all over the state everyday, took a break to be my toy and spent a couple years being railed on every weekend (drag racing, half mile, autox, track day you name it) then my ex used it as her repmobile for the better part of a year. They are fantastic everything cars a little heavy and the open diff is a bummer but you can fix everything wrong with them relatively easily.
In reply to Byrneon27 :
As a non-owner that has thought about these (quite often), that was a fantastic comment on a very interesting thread. Everyone I've ever talked to about early 335's says, "great car when they work, but, money pit potentially bottomless." Nice to hear that this is potentially not true, although from the rather extensive must-upgrade-to-last list, it would seem that if buying used an extra 4k budgeted for maintenance right out of the gate would be prudent.
In reply to Byrneon27 :
I agree with @Number1Gaza - that's extremely interesting and helpful advice (especially the list). As far as I could see, BimmerWorld don't mention what's on this car, so working out what it might cost is a bit tricky!
Are we allowed to ask where your shop is?
ChrisTropea said:It is getting harder to convince myself not to buy an older N54-powered BMW after this track day.
Let me help you with that...
I had a 2011 335xi bought CPO with 18k miles on the clock and full service history. It was the least reliable heap of crap I've ever owned. Problems started at 25k miles and never let up. By 60k miles it was ready for the junkyard. The day I got rid of it was the happiest day of my life (including the birth of my son).
David S. Wallens said:On track, yeah, it ran into cooling issues. That was its downfall.
Mine (which was totally stock BTW) never completed a single day on track. The flat-bed tow truck was it's second home.
TheFlyingClutchman said:Late model N54/S54 BMWs are tempting but I've heard so many issues about oil leaks on everything from valve covers (relatively simple) to engine-out jobs to reach others seals and more.
You heard correctly. Non-stop problems, many of them shockingly costly to sort.
My 335xi was the only car that let me down constantly, to the point where I would almost always choose to take my '87 W124 260E on long trips far from home.
TheFlyingClutchman said:Has anyone compiled a 'bulletbroofing checklist' for these cars?
Yes: roll it into a lake and never look back.
All joking aside, these cars have horrible resale value. Mine was just under $55k new (with options), totally babied since day 1, and required constant repairs (which were all done at specialist shops...so full service history). No damage. Very low miles. Yet, I'd have been lucky to get $7-8k for it.
When I brought my car in for 60k mile service, the total cost of parts and labor to bring it to 100% at a local specialist shop came in at $8500. Hard to justify when I couldn't sell it for that much. I didn't care about the car enough (and it's nowhere NEAR cool enough) to keep hemorrhaging that kind of money.
I won't even mention the fuel "economy" LOL.
In reply to LanEvo :
Mine with a belly full of E85 gets similar fuel economy to my 3/4 ton Yukon XL and/or the average oil tanker accident. This is not a vehicle for the economy-minded
I was a BMW dealer tech in 07 if you spent new BMW money on one of these things early in their lifespan I totally understand you hating them BMW really dropped the ball on the launch of this engine.
For the person who asked where my shop is OrphanK Motorsports (speedy car arm) Seven Valleys PA 717 428 1197
I was able to find a brief underhood shot of the Bimmerworld car I'll go over what I saw
Injen intake (overpriced for what it does in comparison to the BMS DCI setup)
Factory location silicone turbo inlets
Metal Charge Pipe and what looks like a TiAL blow-off valve
Oil cap vent (I see no other PCV system modifications but assume at least an upgraded PCV valve)
Upgraded intercooler (CSF maybe doesn't appear to be one of the taller cores)
Non-standard (M3 or M tech I'm terrible at spotting the differences and yes they're obvious) front bumper this is a cooling system upgrade and an important one if you have an early car
These are things I can't see but would be expected with the other modifications, tuning, downpipe upgrades, larger turbo outlet pipe, and a Walboro 450lph feed pump.
This is what is known as FBO or full bolt-on by the community cars like this can and will knock on the door of 500hp with an E85 blend and easily make more with port injection on full E85 I think the highest hp no nitrous stock turbo N54 is somewhere around 530hp
CSF radiator, oil cooler thermostat delete, oil that can take some heat, and airflow through the grille is all you need to make these things work on track for HPDE/Time Trial sessions. Correcting the goofy overheat protection strategy in the factory tune and adding some mid-throttle high load fuel helps as well. MHD even has a supercooling option that eliminates the PWM of the water pump just runs it full bore all the time you can select that from the main screen at any time obviously this is going to put extra strain on the pump so you don't want to run like this constantly.
Why is it that after reading such posts, I get the feeling I should unload my 328ix and never ever look back ??
I have a 30 year old Z that doesn't leak, doesn't need rod bearings, doesn't need a second mortgage to repair, is an absolute blast to drive, and makes me smile just looking at it.
Maybe ditch the 328 and look for a sound Z32 to transplant LS something into.........
300zxfreak said:Why is it that after reading such posts, I get the feeling I should unload my 328ix and never ever look back ??
I have a 30 year old Z that doesn't leak, doesn't need rod bearings, doesn't need a second mortgage to repair, is an absolute blast to drive, and makes me smile just looking at it.
Maybe ditch the 328 and look for a sound Z32 to transplant LS something into.........
Most of the issues that people are referring to are related to a motor that your 328xi doesn't have. I'm not sure why you'd want to ditch it because of these discussions. The N52 does get oil leaks, and the water pump does eventually fail, but overall the N52 is more reliable than the N54.
Is that a glass juice bottle rolling around on the passenger floor.?
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