We bought an old stock car | ASA tube-frame racer

In reply to Steven :

How difficult was completely changing the body? I've never been a huge fan of the Monte Carlo body and was thinking of replacing it at some point down the line.

Red5 said:

I seem to recall someone running an open cockpit car like this in the Daytona 24 in the late 70's early 80's?  I cant find any photos...

Bruce Trenery’s Cannibal from the mid '90s? 

If they get some Camry bodywork for this project, they HAVE to paint it BEIGE. And not the metallic beige, just plain.

Good enough for Dale. (And maybe this is closer to light yellow.)

In reply to David S. Wallens :

Any IROC body would be acceptable, but an Avenger would be the most acceptable.

In reply to Javelin :

Absolutely correct!

Andy Hollis said:

How much for that drum throne?

That's my old box.  I am seated upon the throne as we speak.  We can perhaps come to an agreement.

I am so glad this is happening as a magazine project car.  Will you keep us updated on spend as well?

Steven said:

I have one and love it. I started racing production based vehicles and the switch has been awesome much more bang for your buck. Mine started as an ASA car then raced TransAm in the 2010-12 timeframe then I purchased a couple years ago. Here are a couple of pics with the old body and the new one.  I run in NASA 

I'm in the opening story, but in case folks don't drive to my thread, I started out with the ASA Monte Carlo also and swapped to a Gen 1 Camaro.  It took some cutting and welding, but it works.  I also run with NASA (Mid Atlantic) and should land in ST1.

g

David S. Wallens said:

Red5 said:

I seem to recall someone running an open cockpit car like this in the Daytona 24 in the late 70's early 80's?  I cant find any photos...

Bruce Trenery’s Cannibal from the mid '90s? 

Editorial Director, Grassroots Motorsports & Classic Motorsports

That is KILLER.

In reply to jh36 :

Yeah, the Cannibal was cool in a sort of 'It's awesome a small privateer team can put together a car and run in IMSA' kind of way. Unfortunately it showed quite how far sports car racing fell in this country after the implosion of the old GTP class when, yet again, it became a spending race, budgets became too high, and all the manufacturers quit. The 'World Sports Car' era did have the cool Ferrari SP333 and nice Riley and Scott chassis, but there was also some stuff that really did not deserve to be there. This among them, no matter how cool it was.

I really want a GRM NASCARlo. Find a 60s/70s shell with rotted floors for pennies and sail to glory.

As mentioned - that is an Oberg filter on dry sump tank. They work great - they catch all debris.. and when you see debris in it (like copper) you know enough to drop the pan and take a look. Those things will save an engine when checked on a regular basis. Similar to cutting open a pleated filter - just much easier.

Plug is probably preheater..  dry sump holds a lot of oil.. colder days it helps to get oil somewhat warm. No need to prime a dry sump system..  they build pressure FAST and on a race car you always turn over the engine before turning ignition on.

If that was a short track car that trans maybe be a 2 speed.

Or 4 speed with 1st removed.

zrtman said:

If that was a short track car that trans maybe be a 2 speed.

Or 4 speed with 1st removed.

It has four ratios handwritten on the case, which I'm assuming are (or were at one point) the four ratios within. What I don't know is if it's a synchro box. Jack seemed to think that it still had helical gears inside, which would mean synchros. But sooner or later we'll find someone who knows what they're doing and take it apart with them and learn its secrets.

In reply to JG Pasterjak :

It is a Five Star North American Sportsman body. One of the few that will fit the ASA chassis without cage mods. 

In reply to AMiataCalledSteve :

Was not too difficult. Five Star has some very good videos online. Also most important thing is to get a good center line. As JG has stated they are offset chassis. So you need to find the centerline in reference to the 4 wheels not the cage per se to make sure the body is even On the chassis. Start with greenhouse and rear qtrs as the rear wheel wells set everything else. 

In reply to jh36 :

I love your car I have a second bare asa chassis I am wanting to do something similar with. 

In reply to nocones :

I got mine down to 2750lbs without driver and iron block LS1 of sorts. I simply add ballast where I want it to get to race weight if needed. NASA SE had no issues with cage. I know alot of guys run Scca with no issues also. 

It's soooo much better working on full-on race cars than street cars or even race cars made from street cars.

JG Pasterjak said:

 Jack seemed to think that it still had helical gears inside, which would mean synchros. But sooner or later we'll find someone who knows what they're doing and take it apart with them and learn its secrets.

Yep...I never cracked it open, but was told it had syncro's when I bought it.   Now that I've used straight cut gears and no clutch, I will not voluntarily go back. 

Steven said:

In reply to jh36 :

I love your car I have a second bare asa chassis I am wanting to do something similar with. 

Nice!  If you have any questions you don't find answered in my thread, feel free to hit me up. We are all bound to learn more through JG's efforts though!

Javelin said:

The linkage is external, and when done right, is one of the best shifting feeling out there, very positive and mechanical.

Assuming everything is geared with 1st being usable for more than just getting through the paddock and off the line, how well do these 2-1 downshift on the fly?

jh36 said: ...Now that I've used straight cut gears and no clutch, I will not voluntarily go back... 

Yup.  Pure track car and the rules and budget allow?  I want a dog box every time.

Driven5 said:

Javelin said:

The linkage is external, and when done right, is one of the best shifting feeling out there, very positive and mechanical.

Assuming everything is geared with 1st being usable for more than just getting through the paddock and off the line, how well do these 2-1 downshift on the fly?

I dunno, my personal experience is limited to drag racing these. My dad has had a Super T-10 in his AMX since they came out (11.2's in the 1/4 N/A) and his is not a dog box, but it can be brutally power-shifted all day long (full throttle 7,000 RPM upshifts). His has a very close ratio, all rod-end linkages, a clutch stop, and a solid hub clutch. I'll ask who is trans guy is.