We hate red cars. (red car content)

Well... peak might not raise, but the bottom/midrange will get stronger.

I may be a bit optimistic here, but it did 220whp on 10psi with crap boost control, exhaust leak, full 2.5" exhaust (I think the full 3" might be good for at LEAST 1whp with this massive 2554, right?), and a pretty conservative tune. It's pretty quick on 12psi with better boost control, still the exhaust leak, and still a conservative tune.

If nothing else, hooking up VICS will make the curve even more obnoxious. I'm cool with that.

There's a guy in Scotland that trapped 110mph with a 2554. I'd like to beat that.

If you run E85, that'll help get more power out of the same oxygen molecules, both from the timing bump and from the the better H/C ratio in the fuel (you get more energy using an O2 molecule to burn H than you do from C). Of course, the 12 gallon fuel tank in the Miata is only good for about 100 miles on E85, but...

"How much for the flares? Sell them to me..."

codrus wrote: If you run E85, that'll help get more power out of the same oxygen molecules, both from the timing bump and from the the better H/C ratio in the fuel (you get more energy using an O2 molecule to burn H than you do from C). Of course, the 12 gallon fuel tank in the Miata is only good for about 100 miles on E85, but...

I'm getting a touch over 300 miles to a tank right now with it. E85 is something i've been thinking of. Could be fun.

Appleseed wrote: "How much for the flares? Sell them to me..."

Hopefully you're not in any sort of rush... it'll be a bit before i really get into that car.

I loved my 2554 on my Miata. It was making boost really early and came on strong even with a measly 1.6 pushing it. Ford did the same with their ecoboost motors in that they slightly undersized the turbos for that glorious low down torque.

In reply to Swank Force One:

I don't even have a NA yet.

Swank Force One wrote:

codrus wrote: If you run E85, that'll help get more power out of the same oxygen molecules, both from the timing bump and from the the better H/C ratio in the fuel (you get more energy using an O2 molecule to burn H than you do from C). Of course, the 12 gallon fuel tank in the Miata is only good for about 100 miles on E85, but...

I'm getting a touch over 300 miles to a tank right now with it. E85 is something i've been thinking of. Could be fun.

Wow, I can only get 200 out of my Miata.

Lean cruise ftw. Low-mid 15s.

Swank,

April 27th, autocross at Kentucky fairgrounds. Be there so I can experience that heap.

Spoolpigeon wrote: Swank, April 27th, autocross at Kentucky fairgrounds. Be there so I can experience that heap.

I doubt it'll be competition ready in my mind at that point. Work has not been kind to me and i'm at a standstill with the Miata until the MX6 is back on the road. (Waiting on my custom tophats to be made anyways)

We'll figure out a way for you to experience it soon-ish anyways. (Might bribe you to come help with the MX6)

()

Doesn't have to be competetive to have fun! And we need some seat time in the MX6 too once its done.

Lean cruise via a megasquirt is safe for the motor? I never had the balls to go below mid 14 on mine during cruise.

Spoolpigeon wrote: () Doesn't have to be competetive to have fun! And we need some seat time in the MX6 too once its done.

I mean more like, it's got some very dead bushings up front making some gross noises from time to time.

It won't be competitive either way, i'm just not really a fan of beating on cars that aren't 100% mechanically up to snuff.

Xceler8x wrote: Lean cruise via a megasquirt is safe for the motor? I never had the balls to go below mid 14 on mine during cruise.

Yeah, it's really low load, so there's really no chance of damage to the motor. Lots of guys doing high 15s/low 16s without issue.

Odometer shows 248 miles on the current tank, a little over a quarter tank left.

I re-wired damn near the entire car this weekend.

About a week or two ago i noticed that the water temp gauge was being flaky. I pulled the panel out to investigate, saw this, and promptly went NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE.

So Saturday, i decided to tear into this thing for round two. It also had an aftermarket alarm and keyless entry that i didn't have the fob for, and in talking to the guy that had the car before Vteckiller2000, he said it didn't work right anyways. YAY. Never removed an alarm before.

Sooo.... a few hours later, this is what i had collected out of the car. ACHIEVEMENT UNLOCKED: ALARM-DECTOMY.

After rebuilding the ignition harness, i decided to move back to the gauges.

Yep... doesn't look any better the second time.

The radio install didn't make me happy either. I don't know WHY the factory harness was cut so far back, or even why it was cut in the first place, since i'm pretty sure there's PNP adapters for these damn things.

Extra crap that we cut out of the gauge wiring.

So, observations:

1) ALL the gauges were wired not only improperly, but incorrectly. This is why the AEM Boost gauge wasn't working prior.

2) I can only imagine how berkeleyed up the wideband voltage offset was. The MS on this car has a breakout aux plug thingymabobber that has 12v, ground, sensor ground, and wideband input on it. Only the wideband input was actually run to this aux harness. With... 4 different kinds of wire spliced together with butt connectors, and tapped in with a vamp clamp. Sensor ground for some reason was built with a similar array of wires and butt connectors, and vamp clamped into a ground on the factory harness.

Now that sensor ground and wideband input are wired properly, the car is going to have to be re-tuned slightly i think. At the very least, i need to re-enter the voltage curve values for the AEM, as i don't feel like this is matching at all right now. Idle is a little weird and erratic compared to before.

3) It's nice having matching gauges, but i'm not much a fan of the AEM boost gauge. Stepper motor and matching gauges because AEM are nice and all, but the stepper motor is a little slow for my tastes for a boost gauge.

Aside: Got into the Megasquirt to see what the pins were for the breakout harness. 1-4 are accounted for. Brain says he usually uses 5 or 14 for VICS, and 15 for EBC. I don't have any of those in use, but i do have 13 attached to a something. This is a unit that i was told should have VICS and EBC ready to rock. Anyone have any ideas?

Oh, also installed a TDR radiator cooling panel. AWWWWWWWYEAH. MODS, BRO. No pictures for you.

Now, let's talk throttle body. It seems i've run into the same thing that Jeff did. 99 head and intake manifold, but still has the NA8 throttle body. The stupid huge hoses and crap off of it are going to make the coolant re-route impossible with the BeGi pipes. Can i just slap a 99-00 throttle body on the car, cap where that big air hose goes on the intercooler piping, and roll? Just recalibrate TPS? (Or swap TPS from NA8 assy to NB1?)

Let's talk BPV/BOV. 1) My intake fits like E36 M3. The filter is rubbing up on the headlight motor quite hard.
2) I berkeleying HATE that crossover tube.

So... anyone know if BeGi makes their intake pipe without the recirc crap on it? I can't find it on their site. Also: Besides potentially louder ricer noises (Doubtful, it's not exactly quiet now), is there any downside at all to running a BOV instead of recirculated BPV on a Megasquirt Miata?

I've had no issues with the bov on my Miata...except the loud noises.

So now I know why you hate red cars.

That level or wiring hackery is why i let someone take my '94 Civic hatch shell for $600 with tons of parts last spring. F that ish. You never know what youre getting into with cars with hacked up wiring. Thank god my Accord only had a stupid power door lock thing that was fairly easy to remove.

If you are still running the afm and metered air tuning then the atmospheric bov will cause a momentary rich condition every time it opens, not a real big deal every ricer on the planet does it. If you ditched the afm and just have map based tuning then the atmospheric bov will have no effect on tune.

Also being megasquirt you can run whatever tps you want so long as it's variable. You can run the non variable type but you'd have to keep the afm.

evildky wrote: If you are still running the afm and metered air tuning then the atmospheric bov will cause a momentary rich condition every time it opens, not a real big deal every ricer on the planet does it. If you ditched the afm and just have map based tuning then the atmospheric bov will have no effect on tune. Also being megasquirt you can run whatever tps you want so long as it's variable. You can run the non variable type but you'd have to keep the afm.

Nah, no MAF. I was really only asking about the BOV from a performance perspective. I see so many people saying "OMG RECIRCULATE YOUR BOV" even when the setup at hand is a MAP based setup, i figured that maybe there was some reason for it. But if it's really just parroting left over from the days where everyone left the MAF/AFM connected, then i don't really care much. (I VTA on the MX6, doesn't seem to cause any problems.)

Turns out with the throttle body i just need to wire the sensors in, recalibrate TPS (no problem, 10 seconds), and re-set IACV settings since they're wildly different between NA and NB apparently. No big deal.

I've been collecting parts for this thing and doing some work here and there. Yesterday was a thrash day.

You may remember that we purchased a 2000 Miata with a bunch of goodies last week. Well... i wanted the goodies on the 95.

Collected but not installed:
Prothane master poly bushing kit
Boss Frog Frog Arms
Boundary Engineering frame rails
Finished off the Bilstein setup (MSM shocks, ebay sleeves, QA1 550/400 springs, ES isolators, Swank Force Racing bumpstops, custom top hats)
Beefy front Alumatec shock tower brace
Boss Frog Clearview rollbar
NB1 side skirts
NB1 fog light cups
R-package rear lip
Garage Vary front lip

So yeah... i still have a lot of work to today, but yesterday i made the biggest improvement to a Miata ever.... HARDTOP. (And Boss frog harness bar, Autopower 5-point cam lock harnesses, Corbeau A4s)

Random pictures.

Achievement unlocked: Soft top removal and reinstall:

The Challenge-friendly NB we bought and brought home 1100 miles. Seriously.

The MSM gearing sucked, but this is my new least favorite. 5spd/4.3 combo. Terrible. (NB had MSM cluster swapped in)

I think the hood is slightly tweaked from this awful hood strut kit it has. Not sure how to fix it. Any ideas?

Custom top hat. So excited for this Bilstein setup.

Is the hood tweaked or is the headlight cover pushed down? If it is the headlight cover just pull up on the back until it is flush.

Swank Force One wrote: The MSM gearing sucked, but this is my new least favorite. 5spd/4.3 combo. Terrible. (NB had MSM cluster swapped in)

The 6-speed with the 4.10 (MSM gearing) is turning the same RPM at 80 in top gear as the 5-speed with 4.30, it just took one extra shift to get there. :)

codrus wrote:

Swank Force One wrote: The MSM gearing sucked, but this is my new least favorite. 5spd/4.3 combo. Terrible. (NB had MSM cluster swapped in)

The 6-speed with the 4.10 (MSM gearing) is turning the same RPM at 80 in top gear as the 5-speed with 4.30, it just took one extra shift to get there. :)

Might be inaccuracies in tach/speedo/whatever but our MSM wasn't QUITE this bad. The thing is that in that picture, GPS was verifying 75mph ground speed. Don't know how accurate the tach really is, but blah.

Either way, the car felt ridiculously slow.