DGEV, with the idle solenoid.
Strangely enough, with a bunch of vacuum leaks, and the idle solelnoid "closed", I could get it to fire up easily, but lowest I could get the idle was around 1500/1800rpm or so.
Fixed leaks, and now the problem referenced in the title.
Initial setting for carb is the one recommended (from some Weber website or other...), 1.5 turns on the idle screw, 2 turns on the mixture screw.
Help. 
Is this a new installation?
In my experience these carbs are pretty picky about float level.
In my experience, those carbs are berkeleying E36 M3ty as hell. I'll have to look at mine tomorrow to see if I can jog my memory as to why I had a similar issue and what I did to the thing before I blew the engine up in that car.
Is the accel pump squrting fuel when you depress the throttle?
Edit- Ignore this, its unlikely the problem. If its idling, you can fart around with the Idle mixture screw, see if it helps. To the left (out) will enrichen the idle mix, so it wont hurt anything.
Most DGVs have 2 take offs for vacuum, one before and one after the butterfly. You plugged both?
Edit: Pres is right. There is 3 seperate fuel inputs, one via the idle circut and the other via the floats. The 3rd is the accel pump. Check to see the floats arent stuck, and the the needle is opening properly.
I'll look for the vacuum take off, I know one is set, have to look for the other....
Float level was per spec when last I checked, but I'll double check it.
Let's see how these suggestions work, thanks!
Bob.
I have a 32/36 DFEV on my Fiat, and since it came that way from the PO I have no idea what jets are on it. However, I did figure out that Weber recommendation of initial idle mixture and idle screw speed turns are based on 'correct' jetting. Mine is apparently jetted smaller (which is necessary to run smooth on a 1.6L) So I had to turn mine out 2.5 turns on the idle mixture I think, just to get it to idle as I was getting lean backfires through the carb. When it was too lean, I'd get the same problem you're seeing, I could get it to start if I filled the carb with gas, and it would idle, but the second you touch the gas, blam, die. The other problem I had was the electronic choke and not having an air cleaner on the carb, the second I went from a blocked open setup with no filter like Weber says, to letting the choke do it's thing + putting the air cleaner back on, tuning became much simpler...
You still haven't said where this installation came from. Factory? Swap? On what car?
If this thing isn't jetted right (and let's not even get into emulsion tubes) or some other issues then it might become a "very exciting" project. Or this is a factory install and you just need some maintenance work.
One thing you can also check, The emulsion tubes can spin. I had this happen to me, The brass spun in the carb housing and couldnt provide fuel because the orifice was facing the wrong way.
in reply to Raze, I've tinkered that way too, and it seems like it'll at least start to catch w/o starting fluid. I've had as far as 2.5, but still nothing.
In reply to pres589, jetting is near identical to a 2002faq set up (I think my secondary idle jet is a wee bit different, have to go find my jetting list) A couple guys from bimmerforums who used the recipe said it was fantastic. It also found a seperate posting/website where the guy running pretty much the same motor as I have (284 cam, 9.5:1, 2.0 M10 motor) with that jetting.
I'll post it up if you think it would give you some insights; emulsion tubes are stock, I think f50.
Why would it run with vacuum leaks, though?
Thanks for the help! Keep it coming!
In reply to OldGray320i:
If it's running with vacuum leaks doesn't that mean you're too rich, as the leaks are leaning the mixture letting you get to an operable AFR?
Is your choke working?
I think your mixture is off, even with the idle speed set all over the place you can usually get it to start if the mixture screw is about right...
WAS running with vacuum leaks, said leaks now fixed.
Fixed it so I can't start it!
Choke is manual, so I've played around with open and closed; seems to "want" to fire a little with choke closed, so I'm thinking I'm just way lean at this point.
But, I never was good at carburetors, so this is a bit of a challenge....
If I throw a boat load of starting fluid down the carb, it'll run off of that, but hit that throttle (more air?) and it dies instantly. I think that means a lean condition. If it were rich, wouldn't I see soot out the tail pipe?
In reply to OldGray320i:
back out the idle mixture screw more if you think you're lean (that's what I'd do)...
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