In reply to John Welsh :
I did see that on a caranddriver article. Surprised to hear they stuck with dwb. Thanks for the links!!
Thanks for the oil info!!
I hope to find a car that's owned by an older person who takes car of it or a GRM style enthusiasts who also takes care of it.
Thoughts on rsx compared to theother cars here? I liked the Celica more but they're impossible to find unlike the rsx
In reply to John Welsh :
Fair enough lol
Got the money ready in an account, but not always the time to go grab a car cuz of work
The RSX is a sporty car, similar in concept to the Celica. I think they're a great choice.
I wouldn't rule out forced induction. It does add some complexity but lots and lots of them out there with crazy high miles. My prior Cobalt SS an example.
I know this isn't local to you, but here's an example of a BMW I'd recommend with the big IF you can verify it's been well cared for.
https://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/d/lake-mary-2006-bmw-330xi-speed-manual/7713895178.html
I'd have to do some research but I have no doubt you could get a VQ in good shape for your price.
Back to my original point...we could spend 30 more pages splitting hairs. LOTS of good options. Pick one, get a great stock example and have fun. Let me know when you do, I'll come up to Autobahn
Does this seem suspiciously cheap?
'14 Volester R w/ 78k asking $6.5k
The profile/ad says to me, "I thought 3 doors would work with a kid..." or "another kid on the way and this wont work at all."
What is the affect of Kia Boyz on Hyundai/Kia ownership in Metro Chicago? I really don't know which are affected. Also, how has it affected insurance rates for these in Metro Chicago?
EDIT: here's another. '13 w/83k @ $7k. Maybe they just are this cheap.
Rougher '14 w/110k @ $5.5k
Previously $12k now asking $7k w/180k. Miles are high, condition looks good. Rust is hard on these. Bring a magnet to test if the rear wheel well lips are now bondo!
Oh lord!!!! That looks almost exactly like my very first car that I bought brand new. Mine was in 1996, but same color etc. OP, if that thing is legit, jump all over it!!
Here's an example of the maintenance vs mileage thing. This is my 16 year old daughter's car. It did lose a head gasket at 325,000 miles. However, that's amazing. For this car it was actually cheaper to replace the motor and transmission than to fix the head gasket. I would drive the car coast to coast with zero concerns. Even before the head gasket, I would have done the same. When it went, it was subtle and the car was still completely drivable.
What a world where a TSX is less expensive (with fewer miles) than an Integra. 90s nostalgia is real and so are the prices.
That said, I love that gen Integra. Great drivers car. I'd be reeeeeeal nervous in Chicago though, as was mentioned about the rust.
Well, he is very interested in a cars weight. So if the Teggy has rust we can just call it "added lightness" 
Ha! That's positive.
In reply to SKJSS (formerly Klayfish) :
You're right, at this point I'm just pontificating gotta do my test drives and find a nice clean example. That's the problem solved. I'm just gonna keep looking for nice stock examples, that teggy is nice if legit.
In reply to John Welsh :
I kinda like velosters but the theft scandal scares me, especially in Chicago where lots of stuff get stolen. We had a rental Kia soul stolen when my mom's car was totalled one time they joyrode it, crashed it, and beat the crap out of every window and body panel.
In reply to John Welsh :
That looks really nice. Pictures don't show any rust but could be disguised with bondo. This might be the ticket.
In reply to SKJSS (formerly Klayfish) :
Damn that's a lot of miles lol. Maintenance is a hell of a drug.
Already contacted the seller lol
In reply to CyberEric :
I mean, kids who listed after them in the 90s have more money now and want their cool cars right? Plus theyre supposed to be incredible drivers cars.
I contacted the seller, but will thoroughly check for rust. Any tips besides magnet?
In reply to SKJSS (formerly Klayfish) :
Touchè
Evanuel9 said:In reply to CyberEric :
I mean, kids who listed after them in the 90s have more money now and want their cool cars right? Plus theyre supposed to be incredible drivers cars.
I contacted the seller, but will thoroughly check for rust. Any tips besides magnet?
I'll add these pics as "typical" rust that you can expect on these. Focus in these area of the body. Mostly focus on the underbody.
On this red car, that is a square plastic grommet that is supposed to snap into a square hole in the quarter panel. The quarter panel rusts out and the grommet, still with screw attached comes free. This is critical to holding on the bumper cover. Inspect closely at this point. Lokk for the square plastic piece. In hack jobs, this screw will just be into bondo. The net result then is you can not remove the rear bumper cover and if you do remove it the twisting of the screw will crack the bond and likely take a chunk out of the "fender" (in quotes because the fender is just really bondo now.)
Here is a video of a hack job of trunk area rust repair. I'm not suggesting this for help on doing the work but more as help to identify the common rust area. Be sure to see the whole trunk floor/spare tire well, etc. These Integras leak from the tail lamps to the trunk floor and common rust in that area as well.
There's added complexity and different driving characteristics with forced induction. I feel it's easier to develop driving skills with something NA.
In reply to John Welsh :
Wow, ummm that's some serious potential for rust. Thank you so much!!! Seller hasn't answered yet but will let you guys know!
In reply to clutchsmoke :
I'm gonna be honest, didn't think of that. Especially with stuff like turbo lag.
So I've updated the spreadsheet with some new finds, culling sold ones, etc. Here it is if anyone is interested: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1riqPM9jxWW3EfEG5DS15eSGaVAhQSkXKeTuWySKFxwM/edit?usp=sharing
Light blue highlighted entries look more promising than yellow which are more promising than white.
Found a tsx, found a minty cobalt ss that might have already sold (seller said he has a buyer coming tomorrow), Got 2 really nice looking e46s (red, granny owned coupe and the 03 zhp), 2 nice e36s (one 318 that looks minty), got that burgundy integra, some em-1s and ek hatch(es), track prepped fit (honestly easy button), celica, g35 (only decent looking stick sedan near me), stick mazda2 (all in spanish), focus SVT, 8th gen si, and my uncle is advocating for a WRX so I tossed the nicest one I could find on my list.
Uncle is also a e36 guy (has an m3 sedan) so we're looking at this one tomorrow (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/924645055711631/). He's not a big gearhead in terms of mechanical stuff but he has an e36 so know what to look at.
Might bump the G35 off the list due to the 19 combined mpg.
The 318 looks really clean. So does the TSX. Celica also looks surprisingly clean.
Some of these cars look really clean in pictures, but that might not always translate to actual condition.......?
Still got some test drives to do and parental negotiations so likely won't be picking a specific car until end of next week, but this thread is a repository for my thinking out loud so...
Ok, let's unpack this a little. Remember, this is just my opinion from experience, YMMV:
First, ditch the '90s Civics. You will be sorely disappointed with them. While they are reliable (presuming proper maintenance), they are a quarter century old economy cars. In stock form you will not be happy. For the cost of mods you can get a much better newer car.
Ditch the WRX, because Subaru
Nix the E36. If you want BMW, you can do much better. E36 interiors were garbage when new, 25 years later... If you want one, late E46 or E90. Must have the N52 motor with proof of maintenance. To me, this is the best of any car in the entire thread.
Again, the Fit is sunrise reliable and go kart responsive. Fabulous car. Also gets almost 40mpg without trying. It's also glacially slow and hates the highway. Ditto the Mazda2.
Fuel mileage is weak in the G, how much do you drive? That's some math to do.
TSX will be a good jack of all trades car.
What about the Accord? Mazda3? TL Type S if you can find one? Pontiac Vibe/Toyota Matrix? Mustang? Veloster? I see you have Celica. Late model Prelude? Sentra SE-R Spec V. IMO all these are better than most of the stuff on your list, except maybe BMW, TSX and G.
If rust is a concern, which it should be, look in the south. You can always ask for help from a GRM local to lay eyes on it. Then either fly in and drive it home or ship it, which is about $500 to Chicago.
The '90s civics do sound like the "worst" cars from a car standpoint, but they also strike me as being a bit like FWD miatas. They seem small, nimble, and I loved the one I drove despite the autotragic slushbox. And good aftermarket. But you're right, if I spend 4k on a car then another 3k on mods I could've possibly gotten a better car for 7k. I'm not sure if I actually want to completely ditch them, but I haven't found a really good example in manual so fair enough. But I did really like driving it (besides the slow steering rack and autotragic)
WRX is out - only on the list because my uncle wanted me to look at one and my mom likes subaru. I'm humoring them lol
If I don't care about interior quality are e36s still bad? I like the e46 better - styling, design, etc wise but that one 318 looks really clean.
In terms of e90s - I'm having a really really hard time finding one in stick. I've found two, and both don't seem like awesome owners or great examples. Here they are: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/368125319291674/ and https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1809082509536897/
I drove a fit once, a while ago. i don't really remember it too much, but I liked that kind of go-karty feel. That's why the fit, the mazda2, and ek civic are on the list - I liked that feel. But the highway compromise does seem like a big one for me what with being in the midwest and then upstate new york next year.
Honestly, I probably won't drive that much for commuting, but I don't know. Will likely commute to work while it's still cold or when it's rainy and then mostly weekend drives for fun. Once I get to college, again probably similar just weekend drives for fun or road trip to NYC. But I'm just not sure about something with sub-20 MPG. I will have to do the math after I figure out how much I will really be driving.
The TSX looks like a good all rounder. Though from some contemporary reviews I read it seems a little more luxury than some of the sports cars on here.
Don't like the accord (prefer civic). I like the mazda3, but only the first generation - just haven't looked for one yet. Forgot about the vibe and matrix, but are they really contenders in this list? Hadn't thought about a prelude - would consider one if it compares to the others here. The se-r spec v is just so ugly. I probably would consider a b15 but I just abhor the b16 generation. Found a couple velosters including the one john posted, but my parents need to check with insurance to see if the whole theft scandal would be relevant. Mustang is sorta in a weird limbo state. My parents initially said no, but when I said I would consider the (slowest) 4 cylinder model like an ecoboost or a fox 4 cylinder they said "maybe if you've exhausted other options." But they said they weren't going to talk about it until I found one nearby in my price range, which i haven't yet.
Rust is absolutely a concern - a very big one. However, being in the midwest it seems like I need to accept some. I brought up the idea of a GRM local looking at it and then flying and driving home, and I'm begging my parents to let me but they are pretty against it. Not an explicit "no" but pretty close. They said if I "find the perfect car down south" they "might consider it" Shipping costs seem pretty exorbitant as well.......
Integra rust pictures:
Information that the seller of this e46 sent me:
No leaks from the engine bay and no error lights.
Exterior:
Warm white CCFL halo rings Yellow tinted high beam reflectors @190k
Morimoto replacement bi-xenon projectors @190k
New ZKW (OEM) headlight lenses @210k
Error free LED front turn signal bulbs Clear turn signals (left side new euro OEM 2022)
Clear side markers
Yellow tinted replacement fog lights
New OEM lower windshield cowl
BMW Roof bars (air dam & bike trays not included)
LED tail lights with smoked turns (new 2022)
Hazards coded to blink when locking/unlocking the car
Interior:
AUX input for radio
Newer M3 floor mats (hey, they were free)
Alcantara weighted ZHP shift knob from Coby Wheel
M-Sport Nappa leather steering wheel and air bag from an LCI E83 X3 M-Sport
New center console and cup holder without armrest (armrest delete)
2022 LED interior lights
Engine:
Oil changed every 5k miles with Mobil 1 5w-30 or 5w-40 and Mann filters
Oil filter housing gasket @170k
New alternator @170k
Rebuilt DISA with metal flap @170k
New spark plugs and ignition coils @190k
New Oil pan gasket & oil pickup tube o-ring (oil pump nut checked) @195k
New M3 motor mounts @195k
New OEM upper & lower radiator hoses @200k
M56 Valve cover conversion @210k
Stewart water pump @210k
Rebuilt Vanos from Dr. Vanos @210k
New Borg Warner thermostat @235k
New Coolant Reservoir & cap @235k
New CSF OE Plus radiator @235k
New serp belt pulleys @235k
New OEM M56 specific valve cover gasket @235k
Rebuilt injectors from FCP Euro @240k A
FE Cone Filter in modified factory airbox Exhaust: DNA long tube headers @235k
Magnaflow 24510 catted section 1 with relocated secondary O2 sensors to pass emissions @235k
Driveline:
New M3 trans mounts @195k
Overhaul @235k:
PTB 12lb steel flywheel with pilot bearing adapter
LUK N47 sprung hub friction disc (8080 material)
N62 pressure plate New clutch master cylinder
Brass pivot pin
New clutch fork and spring
New throw out bearing
ECS braided stainless clutch line with CDV delete
Rebuilt shifter mechanisms with teflon bushings and poly turner shifter support arm bushing
UCC Dual Shear Shift Rod
New Meyle HD Guibo M3 driveshaft with newer CSB New rear CV joint for driveshaft
M3 LSD rear diff, subframe & axles (using 330i trailing arms and spacers on wheel speed sensors)
Brakes:
New front & rear Zimmerman drilled rotors, akebono pads and ebrake parts @235k Bimmerworld stainless front brake hoses @235k
Wheels:
Rial 5 spoke wheels: (4) 17x8 et30 with NEW 205/50/17 Vredestein Wintrac PRO (installed December 2022)
(2) 17x8 et29 with 225/45 Nokian Hakkapelita (very worn, good for burnouts)
Suspension/Steering:
BC Racing BR Coilovers - all dampers replaced in the last 40k miles as well as rear springs and front camber plate spherical bearings @235k
M3 rear swaybar
M3 front strut bar
ACS rear strut bar
Rebuilt steering rack from Rack Doctor with new inner tie rods @195k
New LUK power steering pump @195k
All new power steering lines (a mix of lines from Chase Bays and OEM) @195k C
hase Bays aluminum power steering reservoir @195k
New steering shaft flex joint @195k
New OEM ZHP front control arms (blue //M tags and all) @235k
The bad:
Cracked Windshield Some very small spots of rust starting around rear quarter panels
2 small dents on the hood from a branch falling on it a few months ago
Front bumper has typical wear for being a 235k mile car and could use a respray
Rear bumper has some scuffs and could use a respray
Slow leak from front seal of M3 diff - scary??
A, B & C pillar upper upholstery is starting to detach
Driver’s seat back outer bolster has a tear that has been effectively covered with tape for about 10 years
Rear subframe reinforcement has not been done, but there is only one very small hairline crack starting - This scares me! Weld and reinforce? New subframe and reinforce?
Subframe crack pictures:
Also a bit out of my price range. Not sure on negotiating room but if I buy this, plus 7% tax and 301 dollar registration fee that would leave about $2k for future maintenance, mods, tires, consumables, safety equipment, etc. realistically this is probably unaffordable because it leaves me with minimal money if something goes wrong. However its just on the edge of affordability that it's tempting
Evanuel9 said:Integra rust pictures:
Metal doesn't crack. Bondo does.
Of course, of this age and of this location, it's not a question of, "does it have rust?" but rather a question of, "how much rust does it have?"
And...in the famous words of Neil Young, "Rust Never Sleeps!"
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