Rather than derail another topic further....
Cars that have the shocks mounted to the hood, or poking through the hood, whatever.
Why?
And how?
Rather than derail another topic further....
Cars that have the shocks mounted to the hood, or poking through the hood, whatever.
Why?
And how?
Example?
Shocks mounted to the hood? Never seen that. Unless they were support struts.
Do you mean horizontal shocks like this?
I think the idea is to reduce unsprung weight and centralize mass, and since they connect to the suspension arms via a cam, they can be progressive. (like a compound bow)
93celicaGT2: Think of it this way: Cut all of the suspension mounts off of the car and weld them exactly 4" above where they were before. There now your strut towers come out the top of the hood and you slammed your car with your suspension geometry mostly stock. Now figure out wheel travel and how to limit it with stiffer springs and correct damper.
He means this:
There has been a few challenge cars where this was done also, raising the suspension points I mean, not to the point where they stick out of the hood though.
I think there was an AWD DSM swapped Mirage. Maybe?
And here's the reason why:
Carson wrote: He means this:
Rza wrote: 93celicaGT2: Think of it this way: Cut all of the suspension mounts off of the car and weld them exactly 4" above where they were before. There now your strut towers come out the top of the hood and you slammed your car with your suspension geometry mostly stock. Now figure out wheel travel and how to limit it with stiffer springs and correct damper.
I've already got the springs and dampers... that makes sense. I think doing this i could actually RAISE my car first, and still get 2-3" more drop out of it, and actually have a decent geometry. Right now, my control arms are parallel to the ground, and while it stil handles and feels fine, i don't like knowing that.
oldsaw wrote: And here's the reason why:
Yeah... that's definitely a more extreme view of HOW.
In reply to Carson:
wow, thats gorgeous!
Hi Guys This old Opel Manta is the creation of a crazy swede, the reason for the springs and dampers go through the hood is a simple one lack of money to buy someone shorter, it looks very cool though. :) The car was in the Danish Tuning magazine VMAX a couple of years ago, the engine is a volvo b23f4 I can't remember the exact engine code. But it is the old 2,3 litre four cylinder with a 16 valve head. The owner as mounted both compressor and turbo, he as build almost the entire engine himself, machined the pistons and everything. Try to find it on youtube it is a really impressive build.
Rick
http://www.hilmersson-racing.com/ Just found his homepage. Rick
^Yep! You guys should watch the videos if you haven't seen them already...
It's a crazy-sounding car, fast as HELL.
Didn't the 3000gt vr4 came from the factory with that setup? I always thought that was the reason they had to put those silly plastic caps on the hood.
In reply to Rick4003:
That, in no way, surprises me that a Swede built it.
In reply to Carson:
Not really no, they make some pretty nice stuff. I would really love to live in Sweden, here in Denmark almost everything about car modifying is illegal. I own two Morris minis, and I would really love to build a engine with the bmw k-series cylinder-head. But I can't drive it on the road as everything you modify have to come from a model of the same car. I can build it to the cooper specs but not more than that.
Rick
93celicaGT2 wrote:Rza wrote: 93celicaGT2: Think of it this way: Cut all of the suspension mounts off of the car and weld them exactly 4" above where they were before. There now your strut towers come out the top of the hood and you slammed your car with your suspension geometry mostly stock. Now figure out wheel travel and how to limit it with stiffer springs and correct damper.I've already got the springs and dampers... that makes sense. I think doing this i could actually RAISE my car first, and still get 2-3" more drop out of it, and actually have a decent geometry. Right now, my control arms are parallel to the ground, and while it stil handles and feels fine, i don't like knowing that.
If you are trying to get some drop without altering the suspension geometery, you will have to raise the lower suspension mounting points in addtion to raising the top mounts. And that is probably going to screw-up the steering geometry unless you make some changes there also.
Hal wrote:93celicaGT2 wrote:If you are trying to get some drop without altering the suspension geometery, you will have to raise the lower suspension mounting points in addtion to raising the top mounts. And that is probably going to screw-up the steering geometry unless you make some changes there also.Rza wrote: 93celicaGT2: Think of it this way: Cut all of the suspension mounts off of the car and weld them exactly 4" above where they were before. There now your strut towers come out the top of the hood and you slammed your car with your suspension geometry mostly stock. Now figure out wheel travel and how to limit it with stiffer springs and correct damper.I've already got the springs and dampers... that makes sense. I think doing this i could actually RAISE my car first, and still get 2-3" more drop out of it, and actually have a decent geometry. Right now, my control arms are parallel to the ground, and while it stil handles and feels fine, i don't like knowing that.
This is why i love you guys. I wouldn't have thought of that. But if i remember correctly, just based off of looking at it, i've got maybe an inch or two of room to play there, just based off of the eyeball tape measure. (It's accurate! I swear!)
But now this is all sounding like a PITA and not worth it for a $600 car. 
Or just buy really long coil springs or struts and just move the upper mount
A way to lower the car and still have suspension travel and keep the geometry correct.
Rick4003 wrote: the reason for the springs and dampers go through the hood is a simple one lack of money to buy someone shorter
While not the reason with this incredibly sweet Manta, wouldn't another reason be to have longer springs than would elsewise fit, so that you could have springs that oscillate closer to the ride-quality ideal of 1 Hz?
Rza wrote: Or just buy really long coil springs or struts and just move the upper mount
Hahah! I just redid the entire suspension on this car in the last 8 months, i don't REALLY want to start swapping parts out already again.
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