Well, that sucked...

Thread side-bar: what RX-8 manual do you use?

In reply to Mazda787b:

Thanks!

In reply to bgkast:

Factory Mazda. Found it on the bay of e.

Never pulled a timing belt off a 2.0, but I think its 3 10mm bolts to remove the upper timing cover, then you may be able to slip the belt off the cam gears. Can't remember if there are any bolts to hold the rear upper timing cover to the head, or not.

Edit: Might want to unbolt the cam sprockets before undoing the timing belt, if they have to come off to get the head clear of the rear timing belt cover.

For those interested, I've uploaded my race report. Videos to come later this week once I do some editing.

www.philmatherracing.com

1st Ever Mechanical DNF for Phil Mather Racing

The second race weekend could have gone better for Phil Mather Racing. After a successful test day at Waterford Hills Raceway, the weekend started to go downhill. Mather did qualify second in class, over one second quicker than his previous time at this racetrack in the SpecNeon. However, after qualifying, an engine problem was discovered. A loose spark plug caused a loss in power. Also, a valve lifter in the engine was not working properly. It was decided to run the race and roll the dice, hoping for the best.

The race started very well with Mather getting a jump at the start, but being on the outside of turn one, he slid behind the leader into second place, giving him a nudge entering turn two. Even with an engine that was low on power, Mather was holding his own in second place, comfortably ahead of third place and the leader still within reach. However, it all came to an end on lap four of the eight lap race. Heading into turn four, the engine let go, sending a huge plume of smoke out the exhaust. Mather pulled the car off track, unable to continue.

Despite the setback, progress was made and there is light at the end of the tunnel. The car is running faster, despite being down on power, due to some handling upgrades made between races. Also, Mather is getting used to racing a front-wheel-drive car and getting more comfortable with its handling quirks compared to rear-wheel-drive cars.

A new engine will soon be sourced and PMR hopes to be ready for the next race on July 6th. If anyone knows of a healthy 2.0L DOHC Neon engine, please let us know!

Thanks to CG-Lock and SeatSnug for their continued support. Also joining for the weekend were the Ohm family, who ended up helping out with car prep and even providing lunch on Saturday. Thanks, Ohms! And thanks to Half Baked Schemes Racing and Michael Occhipinti for the opportunity to race this season.

Videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSVtYAawikQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg-9365aRvc

I'm going to go pull an engine from parts galore in Flat Rock, MI on Saturday. Hopefully it's still there. How can I check an engine that I can't run or crank?

Anyone want to help?

Well, turning the crank by hand to make sure it turns at all is a start. Pulling the oil pan and some rod and main caps can tell you things. If you separate the head in the jyard you'll get to look for damage to the bores/pistons/chambers etc.

Basically, none of it is easy. But if you're truly concerned, you can get a pretty good idea by dumping a bunch of labor time into the inspection.

Look in the oil fill hole for sludge. Bring a leakdown tester and air source, if it passes leakdown pull a few main caps if all looks alright buy it.

I would do a "re ring" with any JY motor that's going in a race car if its at all possible to wedge it into the budget.

Oh man, had no idea you were in Adrian. I saw you post that spark plug picture on the NWOR forum. Let me know if you ever need a hand.

Thanks! Also, what special tools should I bring with me besides socket set, breaker bar, wrenches, channel locks, normal stuff?

Well, the engine in the first junkyard didn't work out. I turned it over by the crank bolt and the cams didn't move. There was tension on the timing belt though. So I ended up getting one that was already removed, but guaranteed running. Cost a bit more, but in the end I'm glad I did it. It was a PITA to get the dead engine out of the neon in my garage on my own. In a junkyard would have just been horrible.

Anyhoo, old engine is out. Turns out it also broke a rod and punched a hole in the block just behind the starter. I've got the "new" engine torn down to just a short block. Poured some gas in the cylinders and 3 of the 4 leaked down evenly. Cyl. 3 was a bit carboned up and held the gas longer. The hone marks are still visible and there are almost no score marks on the cylinder walls. I think someone may have been in there before. Anyway, I have a "fresh" head to go on it. It came with the car. It looks to have been machined and cleaned. I need to pick up some 2.7L chrysler lifters and rockers, and some seals and gaskets (ordered). Hopefully this week I'll get it sealed up, then installed next weekend. Wish me luck!

OK, I priced the rockers and lifters for a 2.7L V6 chrysler at the dealer. HAHAHAHAHAHAH wow, are they made of gold? They wanted close to $800 for a set. That said, will the Sealed Power brand from Rock Auto work? Or is there a cheaper source for OEM parts?

I would think there are a million 2.7s in the junkyards with usable rockers and lifters.

OK, so I got some mis-information multiple sources. I ordered 2.7L lifters and rockers. However, the lifters are too small! Rockers are correct. From what I'm reading now, it looks like I need 2.4L lifters. Can someone please confirm? Thank you!

Got the car running today! 160K bottom end with a freshened head. I used the lifters that came with the "new" head. The engine is running well and very quiet. However, I've got an issue. And it happened with the last engine also. It is pushing all the water into the overflow. The car has a gutted thermostat, newer rad. cap, and mishimoto radiator. I've run it up to operating temperature 3 times and it doesn't pull water back into the engine, it stays in the overflow.

Any ideas?

Idea? Sure! Rent a cooling system pressure tester, hook it up, dont pump it up, and just use it as a cooling system pressure gauge and observe the pressure rise and what it ultimately gets up to at operating temperature. If it never gets above the pressure rating of your cap, replace the cap.

Bad rad cap, I've had the cheap motorad ones fail out of the box.

Thanks guys!

One more question. In any other car I've bled the cooling system on, you leave the rad cap off. In this car, if I leave the cap off, the water just dumps out of the opening. Is this normal? This is the 2nd engine that has done this, btw.

Most cars wont do that until the thermostat opens and the car is warm, and even then its more of an 'overflowing' than a 'gushing out' or spraying which is more indicative of a head sealing problem. When you put the pressure gauge on it from dead cold with a full cooling system (as much as you can get it with the car off) you'll be able to tell if that water is coming out because there's slight pressure in the cooling system as soon as you start the car (bad news, head seal), or some other, less serious reason.

OK. New rad cap and more heat/cool cycles and it seems to be holding water now. She runs nice and holds temp at 215ish (idled it in the garage for a while, then drove around my neighborhood in 2nd gear for a couple of miles...my neighbors love me). I think it just had some air pockets in it that were getting pressurized and the rad cap might have been bad

Thanks for the help and advice!.

Been a real canoe party this evening...

just email me when you see them....include the username and (if possible) the URL. See how I made ^^^^that one disappear?

You were misinformed, it is 2.4 Lifters and 2.7 rockers. Sorry I did not catch this sooner.