Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
1/15/20 8:11 p.m.

I might be going to look at one tomorrow. 

Specifically a 2006. 4wd. 

There isn't a lot online to be found in the good or bad column.

Knurled.
Knurled. GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
1/15/20 8:14 p.m.

Huge.

 

Spiteful to work on.

 

An example from recent memory:  The procedure for removing the driver side catalyst, which is a common thing to do because Nissans eat cats like Alf, requires draining the cooling system and A/C system so you can remove the radiator and condenser.  In a longitudinal, rear drive truck.

 

There IS a way to do it without removing the front of the thing, but it is definitely not fun.

MrChaos
MrChaos GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/15/20 8:15 p.m.

It is a fancy Nissan Armada basically, also has very polarizing looks.

MrChaos
MrChaos GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/15/20 8:15 p.m.

the aussies and kiwis love the engine.

pimpm3
pimpm3 UltraDork
1/15/20 9:15 p.m.

I had a 2010 armada for 3 years it was great, nothing but oil changes and tire rotations.  I sold it to my sister a year ago with 130k.  Its still going strong.

I liked it so much I replaced it with a 2018 armada.

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa New Reader
1/15/20 9:24 p.m.

I always found that Nissans of that era liked to nickel and dime you to death with electrical issues.  Window regulators burnt out, switches going bad, HID ballasts crapping out, etc.

 

TGMF
TGMF Reader
1/16/20 10:13 a.m.

In reply to Knurled. :

False

The manifolds are prone to cracking, which if sever enough, will allow outside air into the exhaust creating a false lean condition, which  causes the computer to dump fuel and nuke the catalyst, at which point,  could be drawn back into the engine for extra fun. Dont ignore the leaking exhaust manifold tick noise forever and it's a non-issue.  It's true the manifolds are a pain in the ass to get out, but no need to drain coolant or any of that non-sense. Plenty of online video's on how to swap to long tube headers, its a 8 hour job to do both sides on the floor in your garage with Michigan rusted exhaust bolts. 

 

 

I've got a 13 Armada platinum reserve, which, badge and styling aside is a QX56.   Love the damn thing.  got 120k on it now. I've done the manifolds (replaced with long tube headers/catted B pipes/uprev tune), left rear wheel bearing, and replaced the microswitch on the tailgate exterior handle, and addressed a water leak when going through high pressure car washes at the rear hatch, which in turn got a harness connector inside the hatch wet, causing parking sensor issues.  Manifolds aside, all easy fixes, totalling.....maybe 125 dollars in parts. Otherwise very reliable. Higher trim levels are much nicer inside than comparable GM/Ford offering, and no worries having a 4L60e or hvac buttons with no coatings. No Toyota tax means it's at least 5K cheaper than a comparable Sequoia. Of note, the QX56's came stock with more aggressive ignition timing, and ever so slightly more power, but supposedly require premium fuel.  I run my tuned Armada on regular 87 octane. I've got a tune for premium, which I've tried. It's not a significant difference power wise. certainly not 75 cents a gallon worth. Not at 15mpg anyway.

Frame rust through is not a issue like Toyota variants, and body rust doesn't seem to be an issue either. I haven't really seen much body rust on 200k+ rigs here in Michigan on craigslist/FB marketplace (which I cruise, specifically looking for common rust areas so I can proactively address them). I havent found a spec of rust anywhere on the body of mine, and  my frame is still largely painted and free of rust.   I did fluid film the hell out of mine when I bought it 2 years ago though, but it had already seen 5 Michigan winters by then. Rust does seem to rot at the exhaust flanges. 

9k tow rating, room for the family.  Easily hauls my 25ft 5,000lb camper. Early models like the one you are contemplating may have the smaller brakes, which were insufficient, look to upgrade to later units. Some people report the trans cooler lines at the bottom of the radiator are prone to rusting and popping out of the radiator without warning. Mine look fine, fluid filmed them for good measure.  Worst case you might as preventative maintenance replace the radiator.  I think there was some timing chain guide issues in the early years, but memory is a bit foggy there. 

oh, and for a 6,000lb vehicle the size of a NewYork condo, and no intentions of speed, the 5.6 is a great engine and these trucks haul ass.  With intake and exhaust mods they even sound good doing it.

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
bC9pmCABsvHoAy8YRPpyLh31SfrDufuwU7OhENXJHlQm8fqsA14B8oa2xWXO8r1G