What is out there that uses a bolt on sealed hub/bearing in the rwd irs, is @55" wide, and features either a 4x100 or 5x100 bolt pattern? Miata would have been my answer if the rear hubs bolted to the uprights, but the one I have is pressed together. Anyone think of something?
Whaaaat? Pressed together? Um. Coulda sworn that the awd BG Protege rear setup was lifted from the same generation Miata, and its hubs bolt to the uprights. How hard would it be to unpress your setup apart, and then make it so it bolts together? Cuz I bet that would be easier than finding a BG awd protege rear end assy.
Not sure in RWD, but quite a few of the GM smaller FWD cars had 5x100 bolt on hubs, like cavaliers, grand ams, achievas, etc. Hub wouldn't care if it was in the front or rear I would think.
Why does it need to bolt in? Just curious.
If you need to fangle up something that uses different axles, I'd think press-in would be ideal because then you could take the hubs that mate with whatever axles and cut them down to size or bore the upright out or something.
Jay_W wrote: Whaaaat? Pressed together? Um. Coulda sworn that the awd BG Protege rear setup was lifted from the same generation Miata, and its hubs bolt to the uprights. How hard would it be to unpress your setup apart, and then make it so it bolts together? Cuz I bet that would be easier than finding a BG awd protege rear end assy.
I thought all AWD Protege based cars were struts in the back. Not the case?
E30?
Proteges are pressed in near as I can tell.
It needs to be RWD because I'm not going to use a VW product and as far as I know those are the only ones where it's easy to hook up a FWD hub to a RWD axle shaft and differential.
I want it to be bolt in so that I can adjust camber and toe with shims instead of having to bend the suspension. Adjustable length arms or lengths won't work in this application.
I'll look at the BMW stuff, that might be the ticket.
E 30 is pressed bearings and a bearing specific hub. The bearings are located in a fixed part of the control arm. Probably not the easiest to modify for your purposes.
You wouldn't really be able to adjust camber/toe with bolt in bearings anyway. That only works for non drive type unit bearings that more or less sit on a face. Every drive type bearing that I have seen, save for one, located the bearing by the bore in the upright. The only exception is some solid axle Ford F-series that use a really funky vacuum operated hub lock/unlock.
Ford Sierra or Merkur XR4Ti is 57" (slightly too wide), but does use a nice bolt on hub bearing. The downside is the bolt pattern is 4 1/4" (108mm). I'm sure you could have the hub re-drilled to suit a 100mm pattern. But I have to ask, what is the application and why must it be a bolt on hub? I understand the desire to just add or subtract shims from behind the bolt on bearing, but wouldn't that put the bolts in shear (they are already, but the clamping force holding the bearing on helps to reduce the shear load on the bolts)? That is, unless you make up shims that contact the whole face of the bearing/upright.
Ian F wrote: E30?
here is your winner. It's two bolts away from being removed from the car in one piece.
The other problem with shims to adjust alignment, as I recall further, is that it only works with drum brakes. Unless you have some weird disk brake arrangement that attaches the caliper to the same mounting point as the bearing. Elsewise, you make the rotor out of alignment with the caliper and various sucky things ensue.
Disclaimer: The last time I did shims to do an alignment had a year with a 1 in the front of it. It was probably on a GM A-body.
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