Finally got around to finalizing the design for this guy:
Now its time to have some made in a real material. What would be sufficient to hold the stress? Would aluminum work or should I look into steel? There will be a matching plate on the underside as well.
Be careful just saying "Aluminum". There are GINORMOUS differences between grades and heat treatment levels. Don't consider anything less than 5052-H32 and I'd lean more towards 6061-T6 or 7075-T6.
We would need a lot more info on the application to be able to determine what would be the best material.
You plan on attaching the plate onto the arm in the picture? If so, how would you attach an aluminum plate?
And just because you are asking the question, I would say steel. Aluminum has too many commercial grades available that are not suitable for structural applications. You have to know what you are doing.
And there is the thickness. What did you have in mind?
fanfoy wrote:
We would need a lot more info on the application to be able to determine what would be the best material.
You plan on attaching the plate onto the arm in the picture? If so, how would you attach an aluminum plate?
And just because you are asking the question, I would say steel. Aluminum has too many commercial grades available that are not suitable for structural applications. You have to know what you are doing.
And there is the thickness. What did you have in mind?
This, and how is the balljoint attaching to the plate?
To answer questions:
It will be bolted to the arm
The balljoint will be bolted to the plates
Thickness for each plate is 10mm
Low carbon steel is pretty foolproof stuff, 1018 is a common grade. 3/8 plate is close enough to 10mm.
Is this a weight bearing arm or does it only locate the wheel?
It looks like your are trying to make an adapter plate on a lower control arm to move the ball joint outboard from it's stock location.
ChasH
New Reader
8/7/17 9:58 p.m.
What is the rest of the suspension-a strut? Is this from a particular car or?
Based on his projects i'd guess a datsun part
Its a plate to allow the use of maxima balljoints on a stock 280zx control arm. This lets me use s13 (240sx) spindles.
Steel, every single time.
So if I understand this correctly, the three smaller holes will be used to bolt your plate to the control arm and the three larger holes will be used to bolt the new ball-joint?
And this will increase the lenght of the control arm?
And the suspension is a Mac strut?
ChasH
New Reader
8/8/17 9:07 a.m.
Why not use an aftermarket LCA that also allows a large range of adjustment?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Aluminum-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-For-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-S30-Nissan-/142324834602?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275
In reply to fanfoy:
Correct on all 3.
The use of an aftermarket arm is really an option as none exist. Hence this solution.
My GUESS would be 3/16" (or the same thickness as the thickess part of that arm) mild steel... This opinion is exactly worth its price.
Fitzauto wrote:
There will be a matching plate on the underside as well.
I didn't catch this the first time, a ~10mm plate on both sides is pretty deep into overkill territory in my unprofessional opinion. Just a plate on one side attached with high grade bolts and washers will probably pretzel the stamped arm before anything on the end fails.
fanfoy wrote:
So if I understand this correctly, the three smaller holes will be used to bolt your plate to the control arm and the three larger holes will be used to bolt the new ball-joint?
And this will increase the lenght of the control arm?
And the suspension is a Mac strut?
Are the 3 smaller holes already there for the stock joint?
In reply to ProDarwin:
They are. They are what the stock balljoint attaches to.
Looks like mild steel is the consensus. Ill order the plates after I verify my measurements.