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codrus (Forum Supporter)
codrus (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
11/30/24 12:34 p.m.
Spearfishin said:
kb58 said:

Given the remote location, I think I'd unbolt/loosen the most easily accessible item the belt's route, install the slightly-too-short belt, and use the mounting belts for that item to tighten it in-place. I would not mess with the tensioner as they can sometimes be a real bear to deal with.

I gave some thought to that Wednesday. Could probably slack up the alternator bolts, get belt on and "tension" it with the alternator. What's the risk of having a belt that's pulled banjo string tight?

And is there a way to quote more than one post in a single reply?

Excess wear on the bearings of everything it's pulling on.

As for quoting more than one post AFAIK you can only do it if you insert the special characters manually.

benzbaronDaryn
benzbaronDaryn SuperDork
11/30/24 12:52 p.m.

I would take a string/rope and measure the length around the pulleys, those suckerss ain't cheap.  Can you pin the tensioner for install?   I had a hell of a time getting serp belt on my father's car. Good luck with it, I try and remind myself the "joy of junk," this is the joy portion.   

Hit up the belt books, if you can figure out the length width, and thickness you can find something.  

 

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/30/24 1:21 p.m.

Are you 100% certain that you are routing it correctly? 

Generally the tensioner is the last pulley before the crank, and usually the water pump is first but not always.  Crank and power steering and A/C generally have a high percentage of belt wrap.

 

New belts tend to seem like they are too short, especially the longer the belt is, because belt loads will make it stretch.  This was eye opening on the supercharged Hummer I did.  The belt had to be sized so that the tensioner was maxed out at rest, and under boost load it would max out the other way because of how much it stretched under load.  This only gets worse with wear.

Some new belts are a right pain to get the belt slipped over the last pulley.  

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/30/24 1:26 p.m.
codrus (Forum Supporter) said:

As for quoting more than one post AFAIK you can only do it if you insert the special characters manually.

It can be done by copying and pasting whole quote blocks.

NermalSnert (Forum Supporter)
NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) Dork
11/30/24 1:27 p.m.

In reply to Spearfishin :

I was searching while the leaf blower battery charged and I couldn't even find a cross reference for that part number unless it's in one of those PDF's. It must be out there somewhere.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/30/24 1:28 p.m.
GameboyRMH said:
codrus (Forum Supporter) said:

As for quoting more than one post AFAIK you can only do it if you insert the special characters manually.

It can be done by copying and pasting whole quote blocks.

Only on desktop, I think.  I haven't found a way to copy with mobile, with GRM forum software.

Cyclone03
Cyclone03 Reader
11/30/24 10:31 p.m.

Can you bypass the add on Alt and compressor and run a more normal belt to get home?

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
12/1/24 8:14 a.m.

Are you sure the belt you purchased that was too short, was packaged correctly?

Spearfishin
Spearfishin HalfDork
12/1/24 8:24 a.m.

99.9% sure I'm routed properly. 

99.9% the belts I've tried were the length they said they were. If they were wrong they were both wrong, because first thing I did when I got the 142" was hold out both and make sure it was a little longer than the 140". And it was. 

Spearfishin
Spearfishin HalfDork
12/1/24 8:28 a.m.
Cyclone03 said:

Can you bypass the add on Alt and compressor and run a more normal belt to get home?

I don't think so. Or at least not simply. The plate that holds the compressor to the motor also reclocks/repositions the tensioner, so it no longer tensions without wrapping the add-on AC pulley.

When I'm back tomorrow to work, I'll see if I can spend a few minutes making sure there isn't anything I can adjust that I've missed. From there I think I'll try some smaller idlers to get the 142" belt to sneak on. 

Spearfishin
Spearfishin HalfDork
12/9/24 7:26 p.m.
No Time said:

I just went back and was looking at the original thread about the belt to look at the diagram.

Is the diagram wrong, or does the alternator on the upper drivers side have an adjustment slot? Maybe that could be modified to get a little more adjustment?

So, finally got back to messing with it for 10 minutes after my last meeting today. Alternator does have a tiny bit of movement. Beat it over as much as I could. Also, the label just to the left of the one in that picture has some barely legible Sharpie with charge weight, condenser and evaporator model numbers...and...a belt model number (that isn't the part number from the printed label pictured above). It wasn't totally legible, but I'm 99% sure I found it, and it crosses to the 142" belt I was almost able to wrestle on there. 

The only odd thing I noticed today is the that add-on [smooth] idler very clearly had rib marks worn onto it as if they'd previously routed the inside of the belt on it, rather than outside, which would be a shorter path than following the diagram. It does have a generous adjustment slot, but appears to be already installed at the point providing the least impact on belt travel (though no matter where it is, it bends the path of the belt far more than the diagram might lead you to believe).

Since I'd paid dearly for the belt I tried last, I returned it. Ordered it again for much cheaper tonight from the interweb, hopefully get it before the weekend and take another run at things. For good measure I ordered the Gates and the Dayco versions of the belt ($27 each), figure one might be a millimeter longer and if they're identical and fit, then I've got my spare to keep on board. 

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