RENESIS? lol
Possibility of a VQ getting in there? or maybe a 3.0 H6 out of the Outback?
RENESIS? lol
Possibility of a VQ getting in there? or maybe a 3.0 H6 out of the Outback?
There's one thread here about what motor to put in an RX-7.
There's another thread on the front page about what car to swap a Mercedes V12 into.
Hmmm.....
4l Ferrari V12.. . . Now that is a proper sounding motor once you get it up in the rev range.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: Or get stupid and put an F2T in it. (2.2 SOHC 12v Turbo) This isn't exactly a screamer, though. 6200rpms is about all it's got.
I like this idea.
I'm trying to think of a revvy boinger with more than 4 cylinders. I think an engine like that would be cool in a FC. Alfa Romeo 164 Quattrovalvole V-6 with GTV6/Milano transmission?
In reply to JtspellS: I don't think a flat engine will fit between the strut towers. Even if it did, changing the plugs would be a huge PITA.
EDIT: 1UZ-FE, anyone?
Build up a 9000rpm 302 :-P
I'd just grab the explorer motor if you can get one for cheap.Depending on the year you can find them with either gt40 heads stock or gt40P(need special headers) heads and they have a great flowing stock intake manifold. You can break the 300whp mark pretty easy with a good cam, set of valve springs and a good exhaust setup.
Another thought is the Vortec 4800. Dirt cheep compared to all the other LSx variants. Even cheaper than the LM4 & LM7. They are more compact than the 302. Stock they have 270 HP so I am sure that 300 is just a cam and headers away. From what I here they take boos very well so down the road there is potential for a lot of fun for cheep money.
However the 302 seems to be the fast cheep way. The only down side is weight. Both the 302 and the 4800 have cast iron blocs where as the LM4 is all aluminum. Probably takes 100lbs off the front of the car.
dean1484 wrote: The only down side is weight. Both the 302 and the 4800 have cast iron blocs where as the LM4 is all aluminum. Probably takes 100lbs off the front of the car.
The aluminum block is lighter, but my car weighed 2720 with the cast iron 302 in it with a 49/51 f/r weight bias. The 302 is a LIGHT iron motor. The car weighed less than a stock Turbo II version, and all the difference was ahead of the firewall.
dean1484 wrote:Mazda 605 wrote: Put the damn 13BREW engine back in that Greg had in there!!!I would love to BUT it is in his FD. I just can not seem to keep rotary motors together. Don't get me wrong I love the feel of them when I drive them but for some reason keeping one together for more than 50K is just not in the cards for me. I broke so many motors in my FC that I could change one by my self in 3-4 hours depending on how much of the accessories I had to swap over. I think I did 5 of them in 3 years. In fairness one was my fault I missed a shift going in to turn one at NHIS and probably spun it out to 12-14K. I wonder if you could take a millenia S motor remove the miller cycle supercharger. Re grind the cams to reduce the overlap and put a "normal" type of forced induction on it. Say a turbo. Then somehow mount it all up in an FC. Sounds simple enough. .. . . . I would never make the Challenge budget unless there was some creative financing but that is the type of thing I would like to do.
ummm why not use a regular kl series motor instead since thats what u just described.
dean1484 wrote: They are more compact than the 302. Stock they have 270 HP so I am sure that 300 is just a cam and headers away
A cam swap runs over $1000 by the time you get valvesprings.
My latest 13B cost me, oh, about $300 to build.
Plus, and this is critical, rotaries just sound better than anything else out there. Granted, it sucks only getting 22mpg on the highway, but what can you do?
KATYB wrote:dean1484 wrote:ummm why not use a regular kl series motor instead since thats what u just described.Mazda 605 wrote: Put the damn 13BREW engine back in that Greg had in there!!!I would love to BUT it is in his FD. I just can not seem to keep rotary motors together. Don't get me wrong I love the feel of them when I drive them but for some reason keeping one together for more than 50K is just not in the cards for me. I broke so many motors in my FC that I could change one by my self in 3-4 hours depending on how much of the accessories I had to swap over. I think I did 5 of them in 3 years. In fairness one was my fault I missed a shift going in to turn one at NHIS and probably spun it out to 12-14K. I wonder if you could take a millenia S motor remove the miller cycle supercharger. Re grind the cams to reduce the overlap and put a "normal" type of forced induction on it. Say a turbo. Then somehow mount it all up in an FC. Sounds simple enough. .. . . . I would never make the Challenge budget unless there was some creative financing but that is the type of thing I would like to do.
Maybe because the KJ bottom end is stronger, but yeah otherwise... just run some millenia rods in the KL and call it a day.
Knurled wrote: Plus, and this is critical, rotaries just sound better than anything else out there.
Oh, gonna respectfully disagree there. Strapping a couple chainsaws to your shoulders and revving them up is not my idea of a pleasant sound. And I've had an R100, an RX2, 2 RX3s a couple first gen RX7s (including one with a built 13B) and my own second gen as a rotary for a year before I converted it.
Ported 12A, loud as hell:
Knurled wrote:dean1484 wrote: They are more compact than the 302. Stock they have 270 HP so I am sure that 300 is just a cam and headers awayA cam swap runs over $1000 by the time you get valve springs. My latest 13B cost me, oh, about $300 to build. Plus, and this is critical, rotaries just sound better than anything else out there. Granted, it sucks only getting 22mpg on the highway, but what can you do?
Why would you need to do valve springs? Last time checks a cam was what $250 or less? How much can 16 springs and lifters cost? I am not looking for uber power here about 300 hp / 300T would be just fine. Basically double that of my current 924s
The best sounding rotary was my 85 gsl with a twin tipped Anza strait though thing I got for cheep at a yard sale some place. Ripped off the old muffler and welded the anza to about 12 inches of exhaust pipe and clamped that to the stock pipe just after the rear axle. Was a very nice mix of rotary and British roadster. It would set off car alarms at 50 feet 
. Parking garages and tunnels were a blast.
It was the one in the middle of this photo.
http://www.miata.net/news/v6.html
Knurled wrote:dean1484 wrote: They are more compact than the 302. Stock they have 270 HP so I am sure that 300 is just a cam and headers awayA cam swap runs over $1000 by the time you get valvesprings. My latest 13B cost me, oh, about $300 to build. Plus, and this is critical, rotaries just sound better than anything else out there. Granted, it sucks only getting 22mpg on the highway, but what can you do?
What are you talking about? With the LS,SBF's and SBC's cam swaps are dirt cheap. If you can't do a cam,springs and rockers for under 300$ then your not shopping around.
Knurled wrote: My latest 13B cost me, oh, about $300 to build.
And were you making 300 HP and 300 Foot lbs for $300? 
dean1484 wrote: Why would you need to do valve springs? Last time checks a cam was what $250 or less? How much can 16 springs and lifters cost? I am not looking for uber power here about 300 hp / 300T would be just fine. Basically double that of my current 924s
Roller cams are in the $400-500 range. Performance valvesprings that fit those heads are similar. And you don't wanna know how much roller lifters cost, or how often you need to replace them once you replace the weeny stock cam with something with fun lobes.
If you want 300hp/300ft-lb, throw any engine in there, 4.8, 5.3, whatever you find, and that's it. There is no reason to put a cam in if all you're looking for is barely-more-than-stock power, and are happy with a performance car that sounds boring as all hell.
dean1484 wrote:Knurled wrote: My latest 13B cost me, oh, about $300 to build.And were you making 300 HP and 300 Foot lbs for $300?
I'll be happy with 270hp and 180ft-lb. Should do more, though 
I figure, it's supposed to be a fun car, put a fun engine in it. I drive plenty of torque-happy engines and they're pretty dull to drive, in the sense that they're not very engaging.
Were I to do a V8, I'd want to duplicate a race-trim version of the DZ302 or a Boss 302. That ought to be a riot and a half.
Knurled wrote:dean1484 wrote:I'll be happy with 270hp and 180ft-lb. Should do more, thoughKnurled wrote: My latest 13B cost me, oh, about $300 to build.And were you making 300 HP and 300 Foot lbs for $300?
A normally aspirated 13b with at 270 / 180 ?
I am impressed if this is the case.
dean1484 wrote: A normally asperated 13b with at 270 / 180 ?
Bridge or peripheral port engines do this, no problem. They're getting near 400 crank HP in drag tune nowadays, although that requires a rather unstreetable exhaust layout.
I am just looking for somthing to wake it up a little make the exhaust rumble a little and keep the stock valve train. Heck for 1k you are probably better off just adding forced induction of some sort and leave the internals alone.
dean1484 wrote:Knurled wrote:A normally aspirated 13b with at 270 / 180 ? I am impressed if this is the case.dean1484 wrote:I'll be happy with 270hp and 180ft-lb. Should do more, thoughKnurled wrote: My latest 13B cost me, oh, about $300 to build.And were you making 300 HP and 300 Foot lbs for $300?
Get an F2T and throw a boost controller at it ONLY and you'll reverse those numbers at about 12psi. To the wheels.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: Get an F2T and throw a boost controller at it ONLY and you'll reverse those numbers at about 12psi.
Everyone likes their own thing, and that's cool and all.
One of the local-ish guys put the B2000 Diesel in an FB. Like the F2T engine, it bolts right up to a B2000/2200 transmission. I'm unfamiliar with the hood clearance of an FC vs. an FB, but he needed to hack a sizeable hole in his hood for the front of the engine to clear.
He undid it a while after putting it all together because it sucked (note: the dude also has a Ford F-series Diesel and a Mercedes 300SD) but point is: Will an F2T even fit under the hood? A BP barely fits under an FB hood.
And then unless you get all complicated with making something else fit, your only bolt-on transmission solution is the smoothcase, which seems like can puke its guts out with far less torque than that. Granted, it's a fun game to see how quickly you can swap transmissions (I think I have it down to 40 minutes) but after the fifth or sixth time it gets a little old.
Now, if one were to use the JATCO automatic... hey where's everyone going? 
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