what to look for when buying a mazda miata

Before I start this question, I want to apologize for the repost. I am certain this question has been asked before. But, when you search "Miata" on this web site... well, you get more data than you can sift through.

I had the good fortune to attend an autocross event in the Dayton OH area last weekend, and think I have figured out why "Miata" is always a good answer to any question automotive. Of all the cars running Sunday, the Miata's were easily the fastest and most balanced cars on the track. The field included first and second generation cars, and they all appeared to be very capable.

So, the obvious question: for someone looking to buy a Miata to tinker with, and ultimately autocross or take to a HPDE, which years are the best from the first and second gen models? What sort of things should a potential buyer look out for (good and bad)?

Thanks for the help

Mark

Well, basically you have to figure out what your ultimate goal is. If you want to run in ES, the best car to get is a 94. If you want to run STS2, you need a 91-93 with the Viscous Limited Slip. While its no longer the top dog, a 99 Sport is still competitive in CS. If you eventually want to build a monster CSP car start with any 90-97 because you're going to eventually tear the motor out and put in a 99 motor.

I would suggest buying the best condition one you can find. I would also suggest finding one with an LSD as you will eventually want one anyway. There really isn't a bad miata. If you just plan on running locally, any of them can be competitive. You won't be disapointed. Eventually you may end with one of each.

Here's a good place to start: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/mazda-miata/

look for rust where the rocker meats the quarter panel, they didn't give adequate drain holes so rainy areas have rusty miata's

Stay away from the 90-91 with the short nose cranks. Mazda really dropped the ball on this one. Took 18 years for the problem to develop on my car, but eventually they will ALL fail due to this.

Any other Miata is going to make you smile.

I dont see where you are from, but that is going to influence the market. Northern cars rust in the dogleg just behind the door and over the rocker panel. Not a easy fix to do propoerly and many cars will have a cosmetic repair that will be hard to spot.

Southern cars will have sun beat seals and interiors. Doing a resto on the rubber bits is very expensive partly becasue there is a lot of the suff.

Glass rear windows are wonderfull. However, they do not all agree with all rollbars. You are going to want a braced Hardog for track work, so check into this.

Pretty much any of them will accept the Flying Miata LS1 swap kit, so when you get bored witht the 4 banger you can really build a dedicaded track car.

Pete

mw wrote: I would suggest buying the best condition one you can find. I would also suggest finding one with an LSD as you will eventually want one anyway. There really isn't a bad miata. If you just plan on running locally, any of them can be competitive. You won't be disapointed. Eventually you may end with one of each.

+1

Buy for condition; There are plenty of good arguments for preferring one era over another, but they're all good. Don't be scared of high mileage as long as it's been maintained.

I agree with buying the best condition regardless of high mileage. I bought my 93 from the original owner in awesome condition for $2750 with 160,000 miles and it was my best car purchase ever. It came with all the maintenance records and was always garaged. It's now at 203,000 miles and unbelievably reliable. Everything on the car works and works great. I drive it everyday and it's never needed anything except oil changes.

what breaks or wears out on Miatas ?

and what parts are expensive to replace ?

also how are the automatic transmissions , My friend has a bad knee and really needs an auto.....

Beaulieu

NOHOME wrote: Stay away from the 90-91 with the short nose cranks. Mazda really dropped the ball on this one. Took 18 years for the problem to develop on my car, but eventually they will ALL fail due to this.

I don't agree with this statement. I've seen more of the later cranks fail, actually. The problem is that the original crank nose will take damage very quickly if it's not assembled or torqued properly. The later ones will suffer as well - as I'm just pretty much any engine will. Spontaneous failure is extremely rare. I've put my money where my mouth is - out of the four Miata-engined cars I've owned, three of them have had the short nose crank.

What breaks or wears out? Read the buyer's guide linked earlier. The automatics aren't all that common, but they don't seem to be problematic.

and what parts are expensive to replace ?

Nothing really. Prices are in line with other similar era Japanese imports. And most big items can be sourced used without too much trouble. Hardtops and some engines command premiums, mostly because of the SpecMiata crowd driving demand up and supply down.

also how are the automatic transmissions , My friend has a bad knee and really needs an auto.....

Eeck! (I don't know anything about the auto). Also, being a very low car, can your wife get in/out without bothering her knee? My dad much prefers his BMW Z4 over my Miata, the seat is just a bit taller, making ingree/egress that much easier.

To say pretty much what everyone else has said:

Figure out what you want to use it for. Decide how much you want to spend. Find the nicest one within your price range.

If you're just interested in tinkering and doing Auto-X and HPDE for fun (and aren't worried about being competitive), pretty much any year Miata will work fine for you.

Actually, if you're looking for easy tinkering, you might want to favor an OBD1 car. 94-95 might be the best for you to get the beefier mechanicals (1.8, big rear, and brakes) and not have to deal with OBD2. But I wouldn't discount any year.

I specifically looked for a '94+ because I wanted the bigger rear end so that I could have a torsen to be able to do drift events.

Keith - that link is very helpful, thank you.

NOHOME - I am in the Southwest part of Ohio (Dayton Ohio to be specific), so unfortunately well familiar with salty roads and rust. Given the advice about small drain-holes causing rust in the rockers, the potential for rust makes me think a later car might work better for me. Not that I don't like body work

And thank you to everyone else - great advice!

Mark