I'm wanting to make an engine/transmission adapter. I have the measurements of the dowel pin locations. I think those have to like thousands of an inch close. How can I precisely drill these? I think a mill is overkill but is there some compound table for a drill press that I can do this with? The dowel pin location area is like 5 inch x 18 inch.

Please don't give me a reason to go buy the bridgeport with rotary table my mom's friend is trying to sell me.

Personally, i would make it out of plywood first so you can adjust as necessary, then when you get it perfect you can use bushings in the dowel pin holes to get exactly centered, then you can take the smaller hole out to your desired size. I have never made an adapter before but look to have to in the not too distant future

In reply to Patrick:

Is it cheap SOB priced? If I get rid of the dining room table I can put it there.

I have never done one, but this is worth the watch.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/VuprPEhF2Ic

It's all in the layout

In reply to Toyman01:

Nice video. Gave me some ideas. I especially liked the centering pin to center the engine to the trans. That actually might solve some issues I was thinking about.

I Never thought of using a clear Medium, wow Back to the Think Tank!

My bank account is hurting from just watching that

I would use poster board (from Walmart the cheap white stuff). Tape two sheets (if need be) together and to the housing. Rub over the all the edges with the side of a sharpie. Trim any high spots that get in the way. You can cut and paste or whatever later.

Then flip the housing onto the poster board. Trace any edges/holes in pencil.

Not sure what holes sizes you are using but hft has a cheap set of Transfer punches that are good for the patterns and for the plate later.

Trim the pattern with an exacto on a cutting boards or with scissors. Draw,trace, tape, and retape as needed.

To make the most accurate holes you use a reamer. In this case I think the holes are over sized, some cars' are at least

You say you have measurements. Like an image or cad file?

Can you post it up? It would give me a better idea for making suggestions

A Bridgeport with DRO is the easy way to do this. You could theoretically do it on a surface plate with layout tools, center punch and drill on a drill press, but if you're asking this question you probably aren't good enough at it to get things that precise (max runout of like 0.005").

If you're using a gearbox with a removable bellhousing that has a bearing retainer hole in it (like a T5 or old school 4 speed) the holes don't really need to be super precise, you can get adjustable dowel pins for those applications and line it up by indicating off the bearing retainer hole. Or don't use pins at all and just dread the day it needs a clutch job.

http://www.hougen.com/cutters/cutters_index.html

http://www.rotabroach.co.uk/

If you use transfer punches and make accurate marks, use can drill accurate holes with these. They have bits that look like a hole-cutter with a spring-loaded point in the middle that keeps it on target.

I have to make stuff like this fairly often, and if I'm only making one, I'd mark the positions from both sides using transfer punches. I'd bore a hole to locate the trans input shaft, then turn a locating boss that's a close fit in that hole to pick up the output flange/pilot bearing/center of the crank.

Jumper K. Balls wrote: You say you have measurements. Like an image or cad file? Can you post it up? It would give me a better idea for making suggestions

Stampie wrote: Stolen but here's the Saturn 1.9 4 cylinder and the Chevy V6 T5. Saturn in red T5 in blue. Top two bolts line up.

Stampie wrote: Found these interesting. GM 60° V6 Transmission with measurements

A machine shop has the proper tool to drill the holes. That's the quickest, cheapest way.

In reply to ChasH:

It's a Challenge build so I'm willing to do stupid things like pay $300 for a new tool to save $50 in Challenge budget.

In reply to Stampie:

And here is the caveat of the Challenge.

You could probably buy a machine shop or rent one, purchase metal at weight cost and build most of a challenge car for pennies because the "part cost" is just material weight price.

Just as long as you don't "hire" someone to do it, it fits the rules.

UltimateCheatEngaged

In reply to FlightService:

You can look at it that way. I look at it as I've got a new tool and I've learned new skills. I'm one of those types when I get asked about something on my car I can tell you how it was done because I probably did it. I hate when I see a cool car and start asking questions only to find out all the owner did was write a check. But in this case the helpful posts above made me think in a different direction and I think I can do it with the tools I have.

Aren't you headed to Charleston in the next couple of weeks?

Get it marked up on your material and we can drill it with my mill.

Put a thin layer of Prussian Blue on the engine or bell housing, then lay the adaptor material on it for a quick transfer.

In reply to Toyman01:

I appreciate the offer but I don't think I'll be ready in time. I think I figured out how to do it using your video from above. Thanks.

FlightService wrote: In reply to Stampie: And here is the caveat of the Challenge. You could probably buy a machine shop or rent one, purchase metal at weight cost and build most of a challenge car for pennies because the "part cost" is just material weight price. Just as long as you don't "hire" someone to do it, it fits the rules. #UltimateCheatEngaged

I bought tire machines and never have to put tire mounting shop fee in my budget. I would have been over $2016 last year if i had to include mounting fee for 6 tires.

In reply to Patrick:

And I bet you use that machine tire machine to save yourself and your family and friends money now.

Stampie wrote: In reply to Patrick: And I bet you use that machine tire machine to save yourself and your family and friends money now.

Yep and it's almost paid for from that.

The only thing you're going to be doing different than the 4t65e drawing above is all your trans bellhousing holes will be the same. On the FWD trans one bolt on the bell is threaded and the bolt goes in from the engine side because of the transmisison case. So if you're reading that diagram disregard the hole that's different from the rest and make it the same.