What would you pay for this? (Millitary Blazer content)

http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/4608136894.html

What would you pay for this rig? Or is this a stupid idea altogether?

I am currently assessing my winter transportation options, which include potentially getting a winter beater (sub $1500 max) to supplement my Camaro.

The CUCV Blazer has always been intriguing to me for whatever reason, and if I could snag this in the sub $1500 range and put maybe another $500 in it max I could drive it for the winter and flip it in the spring for at least a bit of profit. I have no idea what these things go for in this condition since they dont come up on CL very often.

I think around $1500 is a fair price for a CUCV in that condition. There was one for sale here locally that was in similar condition but had more rocker rust and the guy wanted $8500(!!!). It sat on the resale lot for months. I think he finally gave up.

Its basically a 3/4 ton diesel Chevy of the period crossed with a K5, if that's what you want get it.

Though usually with stuff like this there isn't a price listed because the seller thinks its worth 3x more than it is. Don't be surprised if he's baffled or even offended by an offer of $1500 for his rusty old truck.

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I own one. I generally like hauling my mountain bike to the trails with it to piss off the hippies. It's a lot of fun and I like the novelty of it over a regular blazer. The values are pretty strong right now, especially since the government decided to stop selling military vehicles to the public again... At least for the time being. 1500 seems fair to me since it needs the 24v starter replaced or rebuilt but I wouldn't be surprised if he wants 3k or so. You can learn all you ever wanted to know about them on the steel soldiers.com forums.

Also looks like someone added the cab lights to that one...they weren't delivered to the military like that.

The 6.2 differs from the civilian versions as it's non egr. It's no powerhouse but is tough, reliable, and gets decent economy for what it is.

The trans is a th400hd

The electrical system is a hybrid 12v/24v system that is a little confusing at first but interesting once you dig into it.

There should be rifle holders behind the front seats.

It could be a fun winter rig and definitely a money maker if you get it at the right price.

The blazer still has 10 bolt axles front and rear so weaker than a Dana 44.

The M1008's(the trucks) have a D60 up front with a 14 bolt out back that usually has a detroit locker.

With either if the 6.2 croaks a 350 will bolt right up, you only have to change the torque converter and governor spring in the trans and it will work fine, also Banks still makes the Sidewinder turbo kit for the 6.2 which bumps power up +60 hp and +115 lb-ft at just under $2k(which is what a decent 383 would run you)

I found a site that has the original specs: CUCV M1009

The original purchase price was $33,000

The fuel filter mounts are a source of leaks, but you can replace the assembly with an aftermarket with a clear bowl pretty easily.

As for the glow plugs, they can be easy or a nightmare, depending on if they were ever done. The thread size is under 10mm and are pretty easy to snap off leaving the threaded portion in the head (I have experienced this). Even if you get the threads free, the ceramic tip may be too carboned up to slip out easily.

The short version of what is was trying to say is, make your offer taking the potential need to pull a cylinder head to drill out a glow plug.

The place I work was the hub for all Gov't auctioned junk in the northeast. Those and the Dodge 3/4 ton automatics went for $800 - $1,000.

Be advised that they were usually off loaded by people with fork trucks that don't care, replacing both drive shafts always came first.

Dan

It seems like to me if it won't start because of the starter problem then $1500 would be the absolute high end. If you can hear it run and drive it then 1500 would be a pretty good bargain. Around here a civilian k5 in similar shape would be 2000-2500, and the military vehicle aspect adds some coolness value.

The blazers dont interest me. Nothing desirable about them over the civilian version. Id love one of the pickups though.

If you do get one I would suggest changing out the locks. Being one of the few Military vehicles that need keys they all used the same key. I have one on my keyring and I would bet I am not the only one.

Rusted_Busted_Spit wrote: If you do get one I would suggest changing out the locks. Being one of the few Military vehicles that need keys they all used the same key. I have one on my keyring and I would bet I am not the only one.

That's wild.

belteshazzar wrote: The blazers dont interest me. Nothing desirable about them over the civilian version. Id love one of the pickups though.

Other than the body the difference is axles and springs. Not hard to find, around here at least, because a lot of the M1009s get parted out. The gearing on the trucks is horrible for highway use though unless you swap in an overdrive.

pinchvalve wrote:

Rusted_Busted_Spit wrote: If you do get one I would suggest changing out the locks. Being one of the few Military vehicles that need keys they all used the same key. I have one on my keyring and I would bet I am not the only one.

That's wild.

Every time I see one I want to try my key to see if the locks were changed but I have not done it yet.

Here is mine:

It was in the TN floods several years ago and was completely submerged, then sat for a couple of years with water in the engine, trans, difs, etc. I paid 250 for it and changed all the fluids, belts, glowplugs, installed a button for the glowplugs because the controller was fried, drained the fuel tank and filter, put some tires on it, and repacked the front wheel bearings and it's been running like a champ ever since. These are fun and unlike mentioned previously there are a lot of differences over the civilian versions, many of them small, but it's interesting to dig around and find them.

Rusted_Busted_Spit wrote: If you do get one I would suggest changing out the locks. Being one of the few Military vehicles that need keys they all used the same key. I have one on my keyring and I would bet I am not the only one.

Won't matter, chevys' that old you can usually wiggle the ignition into the start/run position, I know I've done it on my burb a few times and drove it around without a key in it only realizing it when I go to turn it off lol.

How likely is it that the 24v parts will go NLA?

Brett_Murphy wrote: How likely is it that the 24v parts will go NLA?

There are workarounds for all of it. Most everything can be rebuilt (alts/starter), bypassed (controller card), or converted to 12v pretty easily. TSMs (technical service manuals) and the internets/Steel Soldiers, are invaluable when owning one of these because pretty much ANYTHING you need to know has been covered. I had a lot of issues to cover since mine had been flooded and never lacked for info. Funny thing mine came with a set of TSMs that were in it during the flood, but other than the pages being wrinkled and funky I still use them.....very thorough manuals.

Funny.... while I was chatting with a friend outside a local McD's at lunch one of these rolled through. Awesome.

I'd likely pay $1500-1800 depending on how it looked close up. The 24V starters last MUCH longer than the 12V civilian versions. Dad had one of the trucks (M1008) with the full 24V setup. Started so easy compared to the 84 'burb 6.2 we had. I think we replaced the starter on it every 6 months or so. We were pulling it and having a local electrical shop rebuild it for about $30 until the guy finally retired. Then we went with a parts house one with a LLT warranty and just swapped it out every 6 months. In 10 years that 'burb went through 16 starters and one alternator. The truck? In 4 years it went through a pair of batteries.

One of the important key differences in these is the thickness of the sheetmetal. THat's why these are almost all still intact while the civvy K5's have rusted into oblivion.

Bobzilla wrote: One of the important key differences in these is the thickness of the sheetmetal. THat's why these are almost all still intact while the civvy K5's have rusted into oblivion.

I always assumed it was the CARC, do they actually have thicker panels too?

• Lee

Yep. Used to be a military "museum" just north of the IL border into Wisc we'd stop by each year on our way to Oshkosh fly-in. Used to stop by and chat with the "caretaker". THey had a few M1009's and 1008's they'd bought at a local car auction (not military) that had replacement body panels on the front from collisions. They'd used junkyard fenders and hoods off same year trucks and it was instantly noticeable that they didn't fit well. When you looked closer, you could tell the sheet metal was [hysically thinner on the civvy parts. It was kind of cool to see first hand.

I don't know if that place is still there, but I heard it had to move because it lost it's "museum" status.

no disrespect, but I have a really hard time believing that.

aftermarket vs. OEM, sure.

I thought the reason they weren't usually rusty was because of where and how, and how much they were used. I've seen plenty of them that have been in civilian hands for a few years now. Their rust holes are just as big as regular blazers.

In reply to belteshazzar:

Believe what you want. I know what I saw with my own eyes. Do with that what you will. The body panels were still in their non-OD colors (one was red, one was blue).

I am not sure how serious I am about this thing, since it would be money I would otherwise be putting into the camaro's suspension, but I might try to see it tomorrow anyways. Anything to watch out for in particular? If I make an offer I don't think it will be much over $1k. I have to think about renting a trailer to tow it home with too.