So amidst my layoff one of the options on the table is a move from San Diego to the Seattle area. I have a job offer I will receive in the next two days from up there.
I bought the car last august its a 1990 shortnose had the crank issue but it was completely rebuilt. I paid 2400 for the car with 150k miles on it or so because it came with a binder full of maintenance records.
I put new star specs on it, upgraded the front brakes to the 1.8 (I guess this is called sport brakes?) added a roll bar and put front and rear sways on it. All in I probably have about 4k give or take into the car I had 3500 into it before the sways and adding a racing seat.
It's got a small tear in the soft top and a fogged rear window. There is a couple small dents in the body but the paint is good
Mechanically its great. Had a new clutch slave 15k ago, new main bearing, new rod bearing, new crank key, new thrust bearings, main seals, crank seals, timing belt, alt belt, ps belt etc all 15k ago as well. If I get to stay in socal I am definitely keeping it but if we move to Seattle wife thinks I should sell it because cost of transporting is an issue and I am less interested in a convertible up there.
She is pregnant so even if I go up early and end up making the drive twice she would like me be able to drive her car so 3 cars is a problem.
If I end up in a fairly " want to sell it quick" but recover as much of my investment as I can what do you guys think I could ask?
PHeller
UltraDork
6/12/13 10:04 p.m.
In the northeast that car would be worth $2500-$3000
With stance, it'd sell for gazillions
PHeller, at least in Florida, your price is a little dated. down here a rough, rat is worth nearly $2500 now. This car sounds better than that. I can't speak for the Northwest, but wouldn't think it would be that different.
Jaynen
Dork
6/12/13 10:23 p.m.
Seems like looking at San Diego craigslist I am probably in the 3k-3500 range maybe
I'd be keeping it and driving it up.
I'd say your 3-3.5K is pretty much spot on. To the right buyer, maintenance records, roll bar and sways add quite a bit of value to it and you might even be creeping up towards the 4k range. To the uninformed buyer or the guy who wants to buy a cute convertible for his daughter, Barbie, not so much. If it were mine, I'd probably split the difference, list it at 3.7K OBO and see what happens. If you get some competition among buyers, OBO can go north of the asking price. If you can, I'd link the m.net garage "Buying a used Miata" thread to your ad, as it sounds like you've covered all the maintenance they warn buyers about. Hope you can keep it, good luck if you can't.
SOunds like a $3500 car to me.
Also, there are 1.6 brakes, 1.8 brakes, then Sport brakes.
“Mazda put three different sizes of brakes on the Miata. All the 1990-93 models shared 9.3” front sand 9.1” rears. 1994-00 models used 10” fronts and 9.9 rears. In 2001 the larger “Sport” brakes were introduced. These brakes became standard in 2003, with 11” discs in front."
kylini
New Reader
6/13/13 8:13 a.m.
If I were a casual buyer, I'd be scared of the roll bar, the racing seat, and definitely the tear in the soft top (replacing those isn't cheap).
If I were an autocross buyer, I'd be scared of the brake update since it throws me straight into C Street Prepared.
All I can say is GOOD LUCK! There are always project Miatae on my local Craigslist and they always seem to stay there for months. Autocross class-prepped and clean stock examples tend to go faster.
^And if you're and HPDE guy, it's perfect.
The way I see it. I would lose more money selling it then I would paying to have it shipped to washington. And its an excuse to buy a hard top
If you don't really want to sell it, you could always say GRM told you to list it as $5.5k easy, and a steal at that price, then move it up to Seattle when it magically doesn't sell...
Well hopefully I get the Amazon job, don't move and can instead of paying to move the car buy wheels and suspension
