Why am I asking? No reason....
Do I drop the subframe? Remove the axles from the hubs? Pull the whole engine and transmission out?
Go!
Why am I asking? No reason....
Do I drop the subframe? Remove the axles from the hubs? Pull the whole engine and transmission out?
Go!
Well the last 2 FWD cars I pulled the engines on I did it from the top. Was pretty easy, I would imagine pulling the trans out the top would be pretty easy also.
On my old FWD Chryslers I would pop the balljoints bolts and axle nuts off, then pry down on the control arm to free the upright and remove the axle.
From there it was a matter of disconnecting the engine/transaxle cables and either lifting it out of the engine bay or lowering it onto a furniture dolly.
Typically the engine bays are cramped enough that while you CAN remove the transaxle separately, its usually easier to drop the whole thing, do some routine maintenance, cleaning, etc. and make reinstalling the clutch, etc much easier.
First, drain the fluid. Remove both axles, before removing the second axle, install something to hold the spider gears in place unless you are going to disassemble the differential. If there is any frame work/cross member under the transaxle remove it. Start disconnecting the mounts. Place jack under transaxle. Unbolt from engine.
It can be removed from the bottom. I will try to get the info on what has to be removed besides the axles.
As much fun as the other comments are, on a serious note.
You drop the Trans out threw the bottom.
Air box out. Battery Tray out. Upper mount. Bell bolts shifter and some wiring from the top. You drop the sub frame for clearance leaving the rack in the car Ect. It's not a hard job to do.
I followed the FSM. When I inprovise auto repairs, I break things. General protocol was remove battery box, remove starter motor bolts from above, halfshafts, support engine from above, remove subframe, and use a transmission jack to get the transmission out of the way. I bet that everything is documented in my build thread.
Did you get an LuK Kit or something else? Did you pick up a new clutch master cylinder as well? Do you have a flywheel holding tool of some sort?
The only downside of changing the clutch is that I STILL have a really annoying clunk coming from somewhere in the suspension.
We dropped the entire drivetrain in one out the bottom.....but it needed an engine instead. To do the trans, you should be able to put a brace up top to support the engine while you drop the subframe, axles, & trans. Bottom removal is pretty simple.
Yep, support the engine with a brace, trans comes out the bottom. I did my SVT without even loosening the subframe (people will tell you you have to, but I didn't). Maybe there are some manufacturing tolerances in play there because it was SUPER close and I had to rotate the trans around a bit to get it to fit.
Hardest part for me (as I remember) was figuring out how to disconnect the shifter cables and then actually doing so.
In reply to rcutclif:
Subframes might be different from the peasant's focus and the svt? My experience is with a '00 zx3
In reply to yamaha:
Well, the trans is certainly different, the SVT 6 speed is a 'dual-intermediate-shaft' trans I believe (3 gears on each in a v pattern rather than 6 gears (or 5) on two really long shafts), so maybe it is more compact in exactly the right dimension. Maybe the subframe is too though, I dunno.
rcutclif wrote: Yep, support the engine with a brace, trans comes out the bottom. I did my SVT without even loosening the subframe (people will tell you you have to, but I didn't). Maybe there are some manufacturing tolerances in play there because it was SUPER close and I had to rotate the trans around a bit to get it to fit. Hardest part for me (as I remember) was figuring out how to disconnect the shifter cables and then actually doing so.
^^ What he said. From my friend who has done this numerous times to install LSD for folks: Axles need to come completely out. Disconnect rear motor mount, trans end of motor must be moved forward ~300mm (exact number is in Ford FSM). In addition to shift cables disconnect reverse sensor and remove it from trans (it is fragile and easy to break). Trans must be rotated (clockwise, I think)to be able to slide it back
I pop the lower ball joints and pull the axles. From there, I think you need to pull the subframe on those. (its been a few years). Then its a matter of supporting the engine (good job with the 2x4s) and unbolt.
You may need/want a way to raise and lower the engine to get the angle you need to slide the input shaft out of the clutch.
This makes me miss my days of running tranny repair shops. I had one tech who could have almost any trans out of a car in 20 minutes. He was fun to watch.
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