Whats the least i need to Paco this Taco?

I’ve been eyeballing the cheap paco lift for the  NA. I know once the brackets are in place, my camber will be all kinds of positive. 

So what’s the minimum parts needed to get the lift and the geometry back? 

Do you guys think I could get the camber back within zero for the front and back just using the factory eccentric bolts?

Just found this post from paco: “Best suggestion would be to keep camber as positive as you can stand it, front and rear. Negative camber in front flirts with upper ball joint binding at droop, and CV joint accelerated wear in rear. Something around zero to 1 degree POSITIVE camber should serve you well, and if you're on less than high performance/mud or snow tires, you probably won't notice a huge difference in traction limits. Keep your rear toe to a minimum of 1/16" IN to maintain stability. The PacoMoto upper rear adjustable control arms are great for allowing good to AND camber settings, and also help with tire to spring clearance. Hope that helps!”

looks like a little positive camber wouldn’t be a bad thing, other than killing tires 

Here's a link for others who didn't know what a paco lift on a Miata was:  https://pacomotorsports.com/

Hey guys, Mark Rivera from Paco Motorsports.  Sorry, I'm having trouble logging into the Paco account.

Here's a few tips to help anticipate/prevent/fix common issues when installing the 3" lift kit.  Keep in mind, there are several reasons why people lift Miatas, from well prepped Rallycross machine to unregistered farm toy to street Hoon-machine, so some issues and components may be more critical than others for some builds.

- To get back some negative camber in the front with the lift installed, some people are installing extended lower ball joints with success.  Beware, the more negative camber you achieve in front combined with higher ride height brings you closer to the pivot limits of the ball joints and you COULD see binding depending on alignment, ride height, steering angle, and other factors.  I tend to run as little positive camber as possible with standard eccentric adjustments, and just live with the minor positive camber traction issues, which is usually not much of a problem with snow/mud tires anyway. 

-In the rear, adjustable upper control arms also available from PacoMoto are great for dialing in exact rear camber desired, and also fixes any tire rubbing which can happen with some wheel width/wheel offset/tire width/spring diameter/alignment settings/curb weight combinations.  Wheel spacers can also help in solving tire-to-spring rubbing issues.

-If possible, limit ride height in the rear.  Especially those of you running very lightweight cars and minimalist karts.  Accelerated CV wear can occur and you may start going through axles, especially during hard driving/offroad/high speed conditions.  Chinese axles are pretty cheap replacements, but perhaps not quite as strong or resilient as Mazda axles, from what I've seen.  

-Listen for clicking not only while driving, but spin the rear wheels by hand with the car in the air at full droop to listen for quieter clicks you may not hear while driving.  Even if they only click at full droop and not during most driving, it can happen in corners with body roll, especially if you decide not to run swaybars on your car.  Clicking is binding damage happening inside the CV from it operating past it's maximum angle.  Don't go there if you can help it.

-If possible with your shock setup, and especially important in the rear, spring rates on the lower end of things (stock rates or similar) will allow for less ride height and having at least SOME droop travel, which is important at both axles for traction and handling on uneven surfaces, again, especially if not running swaybars.   If it's ideal for your application, less expensive factory replacement style shocks and factory springs are a better option than adjustable height coilovers with high spring rates designed for lowering and street/track use.  I wouldn't use anything above about 250lb/in or so in front, and a bit softer in the rear.

I'll add these tips to the instructions and continue watching this thread if you guys have any other questions.

-Mark

Thanks for chiming in with the great advice Mark!

I have to admit....... PACO lifted Miatas have been running around in my head for a while now!  

 For someone like me, that lives in snow country, it is almost a must if I want to drive the car on bigger snow days. Thank you Mark for all of that information! And I’m sorry I did not post a link, I thought this forum knew what a Paco kit was. 

Question : are there any inexpensive non-adjustable damper options for the extended arm kit? I'd love to start with the arms, and save for the fully adjustable AFCO's.

Oh man. Now I have some really good/bad ideas running around my head. 

Right? I’m thinking custom longer travel arms for more droop. 

In reply to _ :

You've seen the Offroadster suspension kit, right?

Is anyone spacing the rear subframe down to reduce the nastiness of the CV angles? I don't follow lifted miatas per se but i do follow one 'high profile' lifted miata owner (who's also a member here) who has gone through a lot of axles. Seems like with the PPF you could pretty much just space down the rear subframe until the front of the valve cover hits the hood and there wouldn't be terrible side effects. Might even be able to space the front one too until you run out of steering shaft extension. Just a thought.