pigeon wrote: Anyone ever run used race rubber, such as the Continential challenge tires (re-branded Hoosiers)? Several suppliers sell them with 75% rubber remaining for around $125 each in the 18" size I need for my M3, much more appealing than $3-400 each.
I ran a set with a few heat cycles on 'em to the cords. They were nice if not very long lived. They heat cycle out way before they cord so expect them to be 2 sec off the pace of a fresh set.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:pigeon wrote: Anyone ever run used race rubber, such as the Continential challenge tires (re-branded Hoosiers)? Several suppliers sell them with 75% rubber remaining for around $125 each in the 18" size I need for my M3, much more appealing than $3-400 each.I ran a set with a few heat cycles on 'em to the cords. They were nice if not very long lived. They heat cycle out way before they cord so expect them to be 2 sec off the pace of a fresh set.
For HPDE will I care? Are they false economy, once mounting charges are added in?
For HPDE get a set of Toyo RA1's or Nitto NT01's. They're far more long lived than any Hoosier, particularly a used Hoosier. Since you don't care about times, no reason to get the stickiest of rubber.
docwyte wrote: For HPDE get a set of Toyo RA1's or Nitto NT01's. They're far more long lived than any Hoosier, particularly a used Hoosier. Since you don't care about times, no reason to get the stickiest of rubber.
The Nittos would run me over $1100 for a set - will they last twice as long as a set of 25% used endurance compound Conti/Hoosiers? I'm not being a shiny happy person, I really don't have any idea.
Guy here at work just used a set of the Conti's this past weekend (the take-offs you are talking about), he was happy with grip/wear/etc.
Said he was up to full speed before the end of his out lap and they gripped great.
You should be able to get an entire season out of the Nittos, I doubt you'd get more than 2 events out of the Hoosiers.
I usually do 12-15 track days a year and the Nittos easily lasted an entire season for me, especially since I was able to rotate them all around the car. (same wheel size/offset/tire size)
Now if you're doing more track days than that, you may need another set, but they wear like iron compared to Hoosiers. Remember, those are endurance RACE tires, meant for a multi hour race, which is still not a long time...
pigeon wrote:Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:For HPDE will I care? Are they false economy, once mounting charges are added in?pigeon wrote: Anyone ever run used race rubber, such as the Continential challenge tires (re-branded Hoosiers)? Several suppliers sell them with 75% rubber remaining for around $125 each in the 18" size I need for my M3, much more appealing than $3-400 each.I ran a set with a few heat cycles on 'em to the cords. They were nice if not very long lived. They heat cycle out way before they cord so expect them to be 2 sec off the pace of a fresh set.
It is false economy unless you have a "guy" who can mount them for $30 and don't plan to run many days in a season. If they are scrubs - (like qual only) they are good for maybe 10 days and will only be fast for the first 2. If they already have a whole race weekend on them... they are already slowing and will be dead in 2 more weekends.
They will be rocks if you store them for 6mos before you use them.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: 13lbs isn't featherweight for a 15" wheel.
I wanted some 7.9lb Racing Hart CP-035s for my Saturn. I had the 16" Rota imitation.
I'd expect the 140 treadwear RS-3s would outlast the 100 treadwear Toyos on the track. I wonder which would be better on the road in rain.
pigeon wrote: ...in the 18" size I need for my M3, much more appealing than $3-400 each. Sure, they're not DOT so I have to bring them to the track but that's not a problem.
For dual use tires on the M3 check out the One Lap of America results..
HStockSolo wrote:92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: 13lbs isn't featherweight for a 15" wheel.I wanted some 7.9lb Racing Hart CP-035s for my Saturn. I had the 16" Rota imitation. I'd expect the 140 treadwear RS-3s would outlast the 100 treadwear Toyos on the track. I wonder which would be better on the road in rain.
I also wonder how long it would take the RS-3s to get greasy with 20 minute sessions. And the first session of the day is already 90° with afternoons hitting and eclipsing 100°?
Legit question, not being snarky.
And as far as lightweight, the Enkei RPF-1s are 9.9lbs in 15x7, just wish I could find them in a 15x8.
Of course some SSR's or Work's in those sizes could be light, but custom $500 each wheels for a $2500 Miata seems a bit much.
I was planning on the Konig Flatout that goodwin racing is selling. 15x8, 12.4lbs, $109 each.
z31maniac wrote:HStockSolo wrote:I also wonder how long it would take the RS-3s to get greasy with 20 minute sessions. And the first session of the day is already 90° with afternoons hitting and eclipsing 100°? Legit question, not being snarky.92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: 13lbs isn't featherweight for a 15" wheel.I wanted some 7.9lb Racing Hart CP-035s for my Saturn. I had the 16" Rota imitation. I'd expect the 140 treadwear RS-3s would outlast the 100 treadwear Toyos on the track. I wonder which would be better on the road in rain.
Based on my recent experience with the R1Rs, they get greasy much faster than R comps and especially when it's 90F+. And also based on wear, I don't think the high treadwear rating is reflected in how long they'll last on the track. R comps are designed to deal with that sort of abuse specifically, and they last longer as a result.
The RS-3 and R1Rs are really polar opposites.
R1R excels in cool or wet conditions. The larger sizes (including the 205s) have harder compound under the soft compound. They are probably the worst choice for the track except as a rain tire.
The RS-3 needs heat, and has the least void--works better than the others unshaved, and doesn't fall off like the R1R. If anything, the RS-3 may be too track focused to run as a street tire. From all I've read they act a whole lot like the R888s. I'm sure they are marginally slower, but they aren't marginally cheaper. I wish AD08s or Super Sports were cheaper. Star Specs are the budget choice for heavier cars, but don't have as much dry grip on light cars.
Did you read the GRM tire tests of the street class tires? There's not as much difference between the R1R and the RS-3 as you'd think, wet or dry. And I'm basing my driving impressions on a brand new set, so the harder compound hiding under the soft stuff didn't come in to play. They were much better in cooler temperatures, that's for sure. But since I wanted them for cool and wet conditions, the reputation of the Toyo in those conditions was why I had a set.
But I've run the RA1 both in very hot conditions and in the same cool and wet conditions. They stuck in the cool and the wet, and they didn't get greasy. They lasted me a ridiculously long time. So again a vote for the R compounds if you're not restricted by classifications. The prices aren't really much different.
Keith wrote: Did you read the GRM tire tests of the street class tires? There's not as much difference between the R1R and the RS-3 as you'd think, wet or dry.
What about hot and cold?
GRM didn't test that.
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