Ranger50
Ranger50 MegaDork
5/17/23 12:32 p.m.

If you have followed Project D2D, I have a problem. I can't drill the last two holes for my heater box delete plate, as seen below:

So I ask, do I trim just enough to get it work or do I trim to one of these lines?

I asked a buddy of mine and his is like this:

What does everyone else say and think?

Simpilify and add lightness?

Appleseed
Appleseed MegaDork
5/17/23 1:52 p.m.

Can you get in there with a right angle drill and a stubby drill bit?

matthewmcl
matthewmcl Dork
5/17/23 1:57 p.m.

A quick pop with a plasma might also get in there, though not the cleanest of holes.

How about a little angle iron held in place with the other screws and keeping that corner down?

Ranger50
Ranger50 MegaDork
5/17/23 4:36 p.m.
matthewmcl said:

A quick pop with a plasma might also get in there, though not the cleanest of holes.

How about a little angle iron held in place with the other screws and keeping that corner down?

Don't have a plasma cutter. No screws, only rivets.

Ranger50
Ranger50 MegaDork
5/17/23 4:37 p.m.
Appleseed said:

Can you get in there with a right angle drill and a stubby drill bit?

No. Already did that to the other 4 holes. Physically the drill and bit are too big to fit into that space.

jgrewe
jgrewe Dork
5/17/23 5:09 p.m.

Is this a piece you will need to remove for some reason? If not, why not panel bond it in?

I would try to keep the inner fender as intact as possible. That radius gives you a lot of rigidity.

Ranger50
Ranger50 MegaDork
5/18/23 9:13 a.m.
jgrewe said:

Is this a piece you will need to remove for some reason? If not, why not panel bond it in?

I would try to keep the inner fender as intact as possible. That radius gives you a lot of rigidity.

Because it will be fire caulked on the backside. I'm just not a fan of panel bond for this or I'd use it.

Its a body on frame, I'm not so sure that strength is in play here. Inner fender is is more of a placeholder/alignment for the radiator support, plastic fender liner and outer fender.

jgrewe
jgrewe Dork
5/18/23 9:57 a.m.

How about a long drill bit? Run it through both panels. (Copper colored clecos= 1/8" right?) Orange box store has them 18" long but you could probably find a shorter one for a bit cheaper somewhere.

I've used the 3M fire caulk in other places, awesome stuff. That panel will be a puddle by the time it stops doing its job.

edit: Can you even get your rivet gun in there if you do get the holes drilled?

AxeHealey
AxeHealey GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
5/18/23 10:08 a.m.

You mentioned it in your thread but I'd be tempted to try from the inside after some careful measuring. Although I don't know what it looks like in there, if you can get the rivet done from the inside the only negative is that you'll have two facing the opposite way(?).

Otherwise, I think I'd just make myself enough room by trimming a bit and if it bothers you later, just weld the piece back in. 

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
5/24/23 7:40 a.m.

I would cut a slot in the firewall tin  where you want the rivets. Use a rivet washer on the backside and you will be fine.  But I wonder how you are going to squeeze rivets if you cant get a drill in there? Maybe some number 19 machine screws for those locations? 

 

If you must have a hole, then do the slot thing and with an aluminum or brass nail in place weld the slot up to leave a hole.

 

Or, these things are a thing and might do the job.

Ranger50
Ranger50 MegaDork
5/24/23 8:01 a.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

laugh

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
5/24/23 9:04 a.m.

In reply to Ranger50 :

 

Looks like you already got it done.

So what worked?

Ranger50
Ranger50 MegaDork
5/24/23 9:29 a.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

Initially, I just cut out enough to drill the holes and install the clecos.... Then I removed the rusty battery tray then kinda went f this and cut the rest out.

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/24/23 9:39 a.m.

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