Which engine should I stuff in my '65 Austin Healey Sprite??

How about the 4 cylinder turbo from a MazdaSpeed3? 2.3L all aluminum, intercooled, 265hp 280ftlbs.

Sheesh, you guys are all trying and succeeding in proving me wrong in engines that can fit- that S2000 must be ridiculous to drive.

As to the small block ford- yes, it's only 4 cylinders long, but it also weighs quite a bit more than most 4 cylinder sub-2 liter engines. Yes, the weight is behind the front wheels, but it's by no means centered. Also, by using an engine that torquey, you're approaching if not broaching the torque limits of the chassis without some very serious strengthening. By the time you put in a drivetrain/suspension/brakes/chassis to support the torque and weight of the engine and components, you have a 2200lb car. Mine weighs 1500 and has much lightness I can add with some fiberglass components. 2200 is the same as a FFR Cobra replica, but with a shorter wheelbase and less structural integrity.

I've never been one to poo-poo an idea, so don't take it as that, I just think there are better choices out there, and a definite reason I chose a lightweight engine over a small block XXX. I think most of that torque will be wasted in tire smoke and spongy reflexes, but I don't have first hand experience, so that's just me talking out my poopchute.

With a torch and a welder, it's possible to put a Rolls Royce Merlin in a Spridget. Does it result in a useable car? Hmmm.

I drove a TR350; a SBC in a TR250. Fun in a straight line but otherwise not a great swap. The guy did absolutely nothing to the suspension which accounts for a lot of that.

I drove a SBC/Powerglide powered Bugeye, again fine in a straight line but not so good in the twisties.

I drove a SBF powered E type; not really any faster than a good 4.2 but it handled just fine, thank you.

Putting way too big a motor in any car may be what someone wants and that's fine. Me, I like to not goof up the characteristics that made me want to use that car in the first place; handling, brakes, light weight, 'tossability'.

what do u mean reverse mount? for the honda b series ? what trans mistion would u use to make it rwd? i have a b20 with a a16a2 head chillin in my garage....

I don't think anyone's recommending a b-series in a rwd configuration unless you mid-mount it behind the driver. B20 as well. I don't think there are any rwd trans adaptors out there yet?

Not to mention Hondas turn backwards.

I believe that the Honda 4 bangers changed rotation somewhere around the 2003 model year, don't remember what engine family it was.

Any Honda heads here to correct me?

AFAIK, all their V6's are 'normal' rotation.

Carter

erohslc wrote: I believe that the Honda 4 bangers changed rotation somewhere around the 2003 model year, don't remember what engine family it was. Any Honda heads here to correct me? AFAIK, all their V6's are 'normal' rotation. Carter

Depends on the engine family. The H-series turn backwards.

B-series doesn't as far as i know. Neither does D-series ( i think, could be wrong.)

The B-series should be the only ones in interest here. A D-series wouldn't give quite the fun unless you want to turbo, and H-series are just a general pain in the ass.

On a Honda if the tranny is on the passenger side of the car, it turns 'backards' as they say down here. If it's on the drivers' side, it's conventional rotation. Or at least it's been that way on all of 'em I have worked on.

One of my uncle's buddies swapped a warmed over pinto motor into a bugeye in the 70's. Aparrently it was a really tight fit, but went like hell.

93celicaGT2 wrote:

erohslc wrote: I believe that the Honda 4 bangers changed rotation somewhere around the 2003 model year, don't remember what engine family it was. Any Honda heads here to correct me? AFAIK, all their V6's are 'normal' rotation. Carter

Depends on the engine family. The H-series turn backwards. B-series doesn't as far as i know. Neither does D-series ( i think, could be wrong.) The B-series should be the only ones in interest here. A D-series wouldn't give quite the fun unless you want to turbo, and H-series are just a general pain in the ass.

Lets be a little more precise than "forwards" or "backwards". The Honda H series engines used in the Prelude and Accords spin counter-clockwise. The D series and B series engines used in the Civics and Integras also spin counter-clockwise. The K series used in the RSX, TSX, and recent many Civics spin clockwise. The S2000 motor (I'm forgetting the engine code) spins clockwise. My knowledge of Honda V6's is limited, but I think almost all spin clockwise.

If there is a way to accommodate a counter-clockwise motor in your project, a Honda D16Z6 of D16Y8 (these were used in the Civic EX models in the 90's) would be worth looking at seriously. They are physically smaller than a 4ag or 1600cc Miata engine and made more power in factory tune than either one.

Brust wrote: Sheesh, you guys are all trying and succeeding in proving me wrong in engines that can fit- that S2000 must be ridiculous to drive. As to the small block ford- yes, it's only 4 cylinders long, but it also weighs quite a bit more than most 4 cylinder sub-2 liter engines. Yes, the weight is behind the front wheels, but it's by no means centered. I've never been one to poo-poo an idea, so don't take it as that, I just think there are better choices out there, and a definite reason I chose a lightweight engine over a small block XXX. I think most of that torque will be wasted in tire smoke and spongy reflexes, but I don't have first hand experience, so that's just me talking out my poopchute.

i got all the same arguments against my V8 RX7, and they were all just as wrong.

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/newdawn.html

RX_Midget wrote: I'm a little late to the thread, but my vote should be obvious. Buy a 84-85 RX-7 GSLSE and use everything. Motor, Trans, driveshaft (shortened), and rear axle (narrowed), and oil cooler. I use a $100 VW Scirocco radiator and it has no problem on the street keeping it at 180F. Swap in a later Midget gas tank (8 gallons IIRC). Exhaust will reguire some creative thinking to get it quiet, but it is not to hard to do - ceramic coat the headers to keep passengers feet happy and put down some insulation especially on the passenger side foorwell. The heater shelf can be salvaged by notching the drivers side air passage and boxing it to clear the clutch slave cyl. A small cut and box is needed in the upper passenger side foot well (way above your feet). The trans fits in the tunnel with only a slight massage with a hammer in a few spots to clear the reverse light and neutral switchs hanging off the trans. I dropped the crossmember making it bolt in and cut the original for more clearance. It sits no lower than the exhaust. I ditched the Mazda F/I because it sat up too high and would require a modified hood (I don't like big hood scoops). Buy a Racing Beat Weber sidedraft intake and get a used 45 DCOE which is good for a stock or small street port motor on the street or use a Weber sidedraft style throttle body for F/I. Use the Mazda clutch master and modify the pushrod - the MG cylinder will give you one very large left leg if you use it. It is a fast car with a stock motor and a very fast car with just a street ported motor. I can not complain about reliablilty - I've been racing the same motor since 2000. Here is the latest from this past weekend: RX-Midget at Polish Mtn Hillclimb How it all started: RX-Midget project from totaled shell to complete car. If this seems like too much work, the 1275 is really a great motor when built up and they "drop-in". Good luck. B.

I'm with this guy. Cool car. :)

"540mm long (includes water fitting at the rear and pulleys & stuff at the friont) 530mm wide, not including the exhaust manifolds. 610mm tall with everything. 460mm from the bottom of the block to the top of the cam covers." Bill aka Billzilla

"dry weight of the engine with the conversion kit ready to install is 315 lbs. Our firewall installation, prop and everything is around 400 lbs. The barebones without the conversion kit is between 260 - 270 lbs." Amy From Titan Aircraft

Engine? 2.7L H27A Suzuki V6. If you can squeeze a hefty GM iron block 60 degree six in, this thing has to fit, and save you a lot of weight 180 hp and 180 ft-lbs stock, but there is no aftermarket for it. Though I have been told that custom header's "waken it up".

FWIW:

"Practical Performance Car" ran an article in the August 2006 issue about an Austin Mini with "A-Series" engine (the same as in a Sprite, I believe) fitted with a BMW K1100 motorcycle twin-cam, 16-valve cylinder head conversion.

The "A-Series" engine was 1380cc, had the BMW K1100 twin cam head, BMW K1100 throttle bodies with aftermarket EFI (I'd use bike carbs..) and it wound to 9000rpm and made a peak of 165hp @ 8200 rpm.

It's not an engine-swap, but it sure would kick ass, in my opinion.

If it's interesting to anyone, send me a message and I'll scan the article and email it to you.

• Brian

PS: I've scanned a picture from the article, but I can't figure out how to post it, as I haven't posted the picture anywhere on the web. The dialogue box in which we write these posts seems to want a URL for a photo upload.

In reply to John Brown :

I don't know how to post a picture but if you give me your email address I'll send a picture of my 3.4 Camaro in a Mk3 with a Mk 1 front clip. That car is on the road as I speak. I sold my 215 aluminum Oldsmobile in a Mk2 Sprite which still exists today, but is probably off the road. Nose heavy and pretty squirlly. Both car's transplants fit under their respective bonnets without revealing themselves. My turbo I-6 Ford in an MGC also stayed completely under the aluminum. Drove that beast for 9 years. Sold it to a guy who ruined the entire car with mods that made me cringe. Sadly, some clown took the M-22 aluminum 4 speed out and scrapped the car. My email is Brian.Fahey1@gmail.com I'll send the pictures to show just how naturally they seem to be nesting in the car.

resurrecting a 10 year old thread?  Seems very long wooden boatish.  aka canoe.

I have seen bugeyes with rotaries and they were very cool and the horsepower really wakes up the car. Always wanted a Bugeye, Sprite/Midget. 

After all this I am surprise no one mentioned the Ford 1.0 ecotech.

Or better yet the new Fiesta ST 1.5 from the UK.    All the power you can use.

iceracer said:

After all this I am surprise no one mentioned the Ford 1.0 ecotech.

Or better yet the new Fiesta ST 1.5 from the UK.    All the power you can use.

Was that engine easily available when this thread was started 11 years ago?

Might have posted already...

The “best” option would be to import a Zuzuki Capuchino and chassis swap the Bugeye. 

Engine swaps are inherently non-satisfying in the short term and unless you are prepared to develop the initial results, a huge waste of time and $$$. 

A Bugeye with ALL new suspension and a 1273 drivetrain is hard to beat on the giggle-scale; you would have to drive t naked to improve the giggle scale.

Pete

Ian F said:

iceracer said:

After all this I am surprise no one mentioned the Ford 1.0 ecotech.

Or better yet the new Fiesta ST 1.5 from the UK.    All the power you can use.

Was that engine easily available when this thread was started 11 years ago?

The last thread before today was April of 2009- and at that time, the 3.5l EB FWD engine was just about finished in development.  And no other boosted DI Ford engine existed back then.  Heck, there were not many overall- I think the only serious one at the time was Mazda's 2.0l from the 6.  

In reply to alfadriver :

Gee guys, I guess I'll have to check thread start dates from now on.  

What is the point of bring these threads back fom the dead.

In reply to iceracer :

The suspicion is BrianF above is of the wooden watercraft variety.

I was immediately suspicious as the OP actually lives (or lived) near me in PA, but as far as I can tell hasn't posted here in a number of years.