Which LSD for my endurance racer

I need recomendations for a LSD unit for my 1978 chevy malibu. It has a 1985 Monte Carlo SS rearend in it now (3.73 gears, Auburn LSD, 7.5" with 26 splines).

The auburn lsd does not limit slip any more. I need one for Lemons racing. Is there anything I can do to make the stock one work again?

I also have a 2.37 or 2.73 rearend or something like that. It is an open rearend.

So basically, I have both types of carriers. I just need to know what lsd would be good for endurance road racing.

Example: Torsen, Auburn, Detroit Locker, Tru-track, etc...

Thanks!

Rob

Nobody?

I am sure some of you have raced or autocrossed with a 7.5 10 bolt GM rearend under your car.

I have looked all of the internet and decided that everybody with one of these cars is only into drag racing. No help!

ANY info is helpful.

Thanks,

Rob

Have you tried talking to circle track peeps?

Nope. I don't really know any circle track people. The only ones I know, I wouldn't trust their info (not Because they are circle track people, just because I don't trust these specific individuals).

I will see what I can dig up.

You are the same willy that was racing with us this past weekend right?

lol Ya

The Friends that I told you about that Race American cars in an enduro series around here, might have the answer, I will try and stop by and talk to them about your rear end issues. I still think the first and cheapest move is heavier sways, I was wondering what the sways under my MH look like (no you cant have them lol) but if you can get some measurements to compare notes to so can I. if a 3500 van sway would would work in you car (size wise) it might be just the ticket

I like to look at Randy's Ring and Pinion .com to figure axle stuff out. I've never bought anything from them, but their site is a good reference. The Ranger Station .com has some great reference material too, albiet focused on trucks of the Ford variety, but some good overall information non the less.

Your lsd "can" be rebuilt. New clutches and such. Search the junk yards for a replacement. Stick with the gearing you have. Don't "lock" it.

Lincoln Locker?

Also an Auburn will not work without the proper friction modifier in them. I have seen many occasions when people have wasted them by adding Redline and nothing more.

+1 for a weldie (or a spool if you've got the extra budget).

If it's just for the track, on a Lemons budget, I gotta think weld it up or a spool is the way to go.

Mini-spool? http://www.amazon.com/Richmond-Gear-7882281-Spool-Gm-Bolt/dp/B000MISLBA

$85 & free shipping.

In reply to iceracer:

I was under teh impression that an Auburn rearend was a cone type and had no clutches in it. If it CAN be rebuilt, do you have any info on where to get parts?

Also, is a spool actually good for road racing? I didn't think this would work too well. Maybe I am wrong. I thought the rearend would be silly loose with a welded diff.

Rob

wvumtnbkr wrote: In reply to iceracer: I was under teh impression that an Auburn rearend was a cone type and had no clutches in it. If it CAN be rebuilt, do you have any info on where to get parts? Also, is a spool actually good for road racing? I didn't think this would work too well. Maybe I am wrong. I thought the rearend would be silly loose with a welded diff. Rob

I had the same thoughts on our lemons car - so we went with open. It works fine.

wvumtnbkr wrote: Also, is a spool actually good for road racing? I didn't think this would work too well. Maybe I am wrong. I thought the rearend would be silly loose with a welded diff.

Well, maybe I'm wrong. I shouldn't throw stuff out there that I don't have any real experience with.

You should probably wait to hear from a road racer who has experience with a locked rear. Maybe post up a question on the Grass… oh. Yeah. I’ll shut up now.

In reply to fast_eddie_72:

I am going to reply in the same vein. I've never done it either, but I imagine that it would push like crazy. I remember a guy driving a street spooled car and he said "before you get on the gas, you'd better make sure you're pointing where you want to go, because you're not turning after that."

wvumtnbkr wrote: In reply to iceracer: I was under teh impression that an Auburn rearend was a cone type and had no clutches in it. If it CAN be rebuilt, do you have any info on where to get parts? Also, is a spool actually good for road racing? I didn't think this would work too well. Maybe I am wrong. I thought the rearend would be silly loose with a welded diff. Rob

IIRC, they are the same/similar design used in the old Mopar cone-type Sure Grips (Mopar speak for Posi). Auburn considers them non-serviceable. Some guys have luck remachining the cones. I've seen it work on street applications (and fail too), but I think for all the work involved the life span would be pretty short in a race environment.

I think, but I'm not 100% certain, the early S10's used the same center. You might be able to find a junkyard S10 with a good Posi and snag it.

Try paging Wheels777. He's been researching the GM 7.5 rears.

I raced a Turner in SCCA Nationals for years with a welded rear. It turned fine, but was a pain if you were pushing it in the paddock or the shop and wanted to turn. I replaced it with a limited slip and did see that I was able to get on the gas sooner in turns. For Lemons, I think a welded rear would be fine.

Which LSD? And no one has jumped on this, in this group? The one with the dancing bear.....

If it's a tight road course, do NOT weld the diff. Fwd or Rwd, makes no difference, it'lll be a horror show in turns--you will get an up close and personal understanding of either severe understeer or oversteer, depending on the driven wheels. A locked rear will work on a sweeping course, or if you have the hp available to "drive" the rear with hp. That said, I know of a Spitfire that runs Lime Rock with a welded rear, but, that's a complete race car, not a Lemons-type vehicle. And a bit of power, and a good tire budget.

Bottom Line: Design the car for the course.

Despite my running a welded dif in my Morris Minor Auto-X car for 2 years I would say don't weld it. The Morris was built specfically for Auto-X and had numerous modifications that made the welded diff work just fine.

i know the s10 way of dealing with it is finding an explorer in the junkyard with the LSD 8.8"... $110 and bolts in with a little work... although it requires some machine work if you want to keep the same wheel bolt pattern... widens the track by an inch or so also...

donalson wrote: i know the s10 way of dealing with it is finding an explorer in the junkyard with the LSD 8.8"... $110 and bolts in with a little work... although it requires some machine work if you want to keep the same wheel bolt pattern... widens the track by an inch or so also...

OR just buy another S10 gear from the same yard ;)

for budget good point... for stronger less likely to die and add LSD then the 8.8 is the way to go it sounds... the factory g80 locker is a time bomb from the way the forums make it sound