That sentra is certainly an unloved car, but if its got the LSD (optional for that generation), its a good performer for the $.
That sentra is certainly an unloved car, but if its got the LSD (optional for that generation), its a good performer for the $.
Evanuel9 said:In reply to prodarwin :
On the FRS - it seems like everyone and their mother has had an engine fail no matter what they do to it? How do people own and daily these cars? It just seems hard for me to believe a modern Japanese car has such an immense susceptibility to catastrophic engine failure.
Seems to be luck of the draw. They are either pretty reliable, or absolute nightmares.
If you go on forums where people track them regularly, a LOT of them have had an engine failure. Meanwhile, I bet a Fit engine failure is pretty hard to find.
Some of the most fun autocross/street/race car things toys I have had in the past were Saturns. They aren't fast, but low, independent suspension, 4x100, light, fit a decent amount of tire, and very hard to kill. I'd be trying to find the modern equivalent of this. I'd say its a Fit, although their height still makes me uncomfortable. This is why I suggest a Mazda 3, base Civic, etc. Plus both of those models benefit from the aftermarket the higher end models draw (Speed 3, Civic Si), as well as take-offs/discarded parts from owners of those cars.
Evanuel9 said:In reply to John Welsh :
Wow I did not know this - a cobalt SS with swedish build quality and possibly AWD. How would it compare to the subcompacts or compact sedans on this list? It's likely heavier and more isolated but more powerful?
Could you repost the link - it just takes me to the cargurus search page.
How about this link for the Saab 9-3... https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/YS3FB46Y881114867
Evanuel9 said:In reply to John Welsh :
Oh ok, thanks. I still don't love the sentra in comparison to some of the other cars but I will consider it.
In a previous thread of yours we went deeper in the Sentra SE-R Spec V of this era when I posted a different one. To critique this one...
In the gen to get a manual trans it had to be an SE-R Spec V which this is but it also should then have a a badge on the trunk that says SE-R Spec V. On this specific example it has a SE-R badge on the grille (proper) but the trunk lid says SR (a lesser model.) Upon further looking, I think the paint on the rear bumper looks poor. My suspicion, accident damage resulted in a trunk lid replacement (likely in the correct factory color) from a Sentra SR and a not correct color rear bumper, painted poorly.
Not specifically the end of the world but you might want to ask if R-title. Also, look under the trunk rug to for signs of floor pan rippling.
SR badge in this picture:
Rear bumper paint looks worst in this picture:
Save more money until you can get a newer one with lower milage.
I know some people love the frisbees (frs/brz) but working many many many track days I have come to the conclusion of those cars are going on track they are going to lose an engine. Not if, when. A reliable track ready frisbee is k-swapped and you're adding $10k to the purchase price.
the bigger the car, the faster you go the harder it is on brakes, tires and fuel. I can get a full season on a set of tires easy and still have some left over to start the next year. Brakes last 2 seasons of track time. 3 for the rears it appears. Both of those are SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper for a bspec car than any of your choices mentioned and you don't need them as often. I can fill the car up, do 2 track days and get part way home on a tank of gas. Your other choices you will be getting gas at least once that weekend.
it all adds up. If you're made of money then it doesn't matter. If you're not, these are things you have to consider.
In reply to prodarwin :
Damn. Even on higher treadwear, less grippy/competitive tires? So what makes it different from the mazda2 with which it shares a chassis and the Honda fit which is a similar size and shape? More speed? More roll stiffness?
In reply to prodarwin :
The LSD is attractive, and it seems decently fun but I just have a hard time liking it.
Fit failures are impossible to find haha. The 86 forums are pretty polarized between people saying "I tracked it stock and I'm at 150k miles with no issues" and "my engine blew at 30k miles out of nowhere on the street"
Fits have a whole racing series - how bad is the rollover risk really?
I hated the base 8th gen civic I drove. It had all of the slowness of something like the EK civic or Honda fit with none of the sharpness. Sis arnt bad. Speed3s were recommended against in one of the other threads one reliability concerns. Thoughts?
Should I look for a Saturn? That's something I completely handt considered and seems obsolete compared to modern compacts and subcompacts.
In reply to John Welsh :
Oh my gosh there's an 9-3x version of one of those parked outside near me house most of the time. Owner has it on giulia quadrofoglio wheels. I should ask him about it
In reply to John Welsh :
So what's the real deal on R titles. From the other GRM thread it seems like resale value is a bigger issue than structural issues. Obviously a no-go if there's wrinkled sheet metal but if it is structurally fine the only issue would be resale and value right?
How do I know if it's an LSD or not (besides asking seller).
Let me be 100% clear, I am NOT suggesting you look for a Saturn
In reply to jharry3 :
Newer FRS/fist or what?
I unfortunately can't. Unless my income takes a big leap, and soon, I'm at my max right now. - I will be headed off to college in August so I won't be able to to work then (or bring my car for first semester), and the 12,400 is the entirety of my disposable income that I will have until then - the rest goes to parents for rent.
In reply to prodarwin :
Oh ok lol
In reply to bobzilla :
I'd kill for a k swapped frisbee lol. I think I just need to accept that it may be out of the budget if I want track time. Probably a decent daily but not a great occasional track car. Even with an upgraded pickup, baffle, and oil cooler.
Definitely not made of money. I think maybe I'm underestimating track wear and cost. I probably need to go significantly cheaper in terms of purchase price and consumables.
The e36 318 is still real attractive to me
Evanuel9 said:In reply to prodarwin :
Fits have a whole racing series - how bad is the rollover risk really?
No more than any other sedan. They're wider than a FiST and all of their weight is down low. The only one we've see roll, ANY car going in like that (turn 10 at gingerman, sloping down into a gravel pit, full sideways slide, tires bit and boop) would have had the same chance.
Love seeing all the help here–keep it coming.
We had a 318ti back when it was new as a magazine project car. Very fun on track.
It was geared way low, though, so rather buzzy on the highway. Just something to consider. (Plus 1996 was a while ago.)
In reply to David S. Wallens :
People have been really helpful here, and while I may seem like an average idiot teen who knows better, im really taking the advice to heart.
How was the 318ti on the street? I don't mind some buzziness on the highway - I test drove a FiST with no exhaust on the highway - talk about drone. But I do want some street fun.
In terms of the track - I've read that the e30 trailing arm in the 318ti tends to bite with snap oversteer. How bad was it?
In reply to bobzilla :
I'm actually surprised to hear that - it seems much more minivan-like than the mazda2 or the FiST. Wish there was an SI model like the FiST but for a fit haha.
So I feel like I'm back to square one. The ideal car is a Miata or MR2 Spyder but parents won't allow a two seater. The Frisbee was my favorite car to drive that meets parents requirements, but it would only be good as a street car and even with survivability mods I'd be flipping a coin on track usage blowing the engine. The FiST was awesome to drive but might be iffy at a cheap, high miles version and could have rollover issues.
So I'm back to square one with the b spec type cars or the e90 or Saab or sentra in this thread. Or the 318ti but it's 30 year old bmw. Then again it's an m42 or m44 which are some of bmw most reliable engines, and condition looks pretty good
Test drives told me which cars I loved to drive. Unfortunately that doesn't answer any other questions
Also, what does a typical track day cost. I haven't been able to find too much priicing info on the Autobahn cc website but $200 seems to be the average cost, in which case I might have to drop my budget even more to afford them
So..... How handy are you? Dont mind a project? I would immediately grab the lowest cost, no rust, straight framed 318ti and assume the entirety of the suspension will need overhauled. New diff mounts, new TC Kline/Ground Control or similar coilovers, new radiator/waterpump, new valve cover gaskets/plugs, new wheel bearings, new tranny/motor mounts, new fluids, etc. After the car is sorted, can always easily upgrade the motor to a BMW straight 6 for some more trouncing powa. Upgrade the brakes to 330i front/m3 rear (I think), etc as your ability progresses.
If you are not looking/able to project this car up, I would buy the newest make/model car you can afford in the best condition.
Evanuel9 said:In reply to David S. Wallens :
People have been really helpful here, and while I may seem like an average idiot teen who knows better, im really taking the advice to heart.
How was the 318ti on the street? I don't mind some buzziness on the highway - I test drove a FiST with no exhaust on the highway - talk about drone. But I do want some street fun.
In terms of the track - I've read that the e30 trailing arm in the 318ti tends to bite with snap oversteer. How bad was it?
Bite with snap oversteer? Not from my experience, maybe if you get wayyyyy in over your skis?
Evanuel9 said:In reply to bobzilla :
I'm actually surprised to hear that - it seems much more minivan-like than the mazda2 or the FiST. Wish there was an SI model like the FiST but for a fit haha.
You can always L15B7 swap it. Like the Rio can get a gamma-T swap. It's a bit more involved for the Fit than the Rio I hear, but not unheard of.
In reply to Olemiss540 :
Dont mind a project, very enthusiastic, and pretty handy but not very experienced. But I love to work on stuff and figure it out.
Of the ones I posted for the 318ti, which looks the best to you. They all look to have minimal rust and fair clean frames, but different levels of cleanliness and mods. Definitely willing/able to make it a project if I leave money in the budget
In terms of biting I mean that I've read they can snap under power. Seems fairly illogical due to the low torque but I thought I dask
In reply to bobzilla :
That would be really cool.probabky a bit expensive though, and I'm really unsure if I want an engine swap at this point in my life (I mean I'd love to do one but it is probably impractical).
The other question I need to answer is how much track time I will actually have. But am I correct in saying that each track outing is a coin flip on engine failure?
If I had more money for a nicer frs, would that change the calculus at all or is it just a fact of the platform that the track is a gamble on engine explosions?
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