Apexcarver
Apexcarver SuperDork
7/6/11 1:06 p.m.

Hopefully in the next few weeks I will be buttoning up replacing the engine in my 95 miata.

Engine is a 96 with 26k miles on it (26,000... no typo) and the chassis is a 95 with 153k on it.

I am doing the following swaps on the new motor while I have it out

OBD1 parts from old motor (ignition, wire harness, etc)

Plug wires (what are a good choice a far as plugs go for it? I know my E30 was picky)

Valve cover gasket (had just replaced it on the old motor

Oil pressure sensor (to not be a dummy switch)

Trans input seal (any tips on doing this?) as it may be leaky (and a good bet at 153k)

Waiting to actually have it run before doing the timing belt. I know the motor has been sitting for 8 years, but it is a junkyard motor and I want to be sure it will run before putting on parts that would be non-reusable.

On the old motor (bad crank nose + oil pressure problem) I had just done the timing belt and water pump. I dont feel bad pulling the pump off the old motor to reuse it, but what else can I reuse as far as that goes? I know the belt itself is probably not a good idea. (motor is staying around as the core charge of $25 would barely cover gas to return it, plus the head is still good)

Also.. I am trying to remember.. Is it possible to do the timing belt without undoing the main crank bolt? (so I dont have to worry about the woodriff key) When I took the old one apart for the timing belt I found a broken key and attempted the loctite fix, which didnt take. (i know, its a long nose, apparently someone in the history of the car messed it up) If the new one has never been done I have the feeling its best left alone if possible.

What else am I not thinking of that I may regret not doing while I have it apart?

Coolant re-route? (is it STS legal?)

Alan Cesar
Alan Cesar Associate Editor
7/6/11 1:29 p.m.

Replace the motor mounts while you're at it. Get the stiffer Mazdaspeed ones if you get real excited, but at least get OEM Mazda mounts. I had some very bad luck with aftermarket mounts, which made for some unfortunate decisions when faced with a time crunch. I ended up getting used mounts from a local Spec Miata outfit because I was out of options. I'm not excited about 20-year-old mounts, but they're better than busted ones.

I don't know if the coolant re-route is STS-legal, but unless you've added boost, I don't think it's necessary.

If memory serves, I think that you can indeed replace the timing belt without removing the pulley bolt. But I'm not positive. The accessory belt pulley does have to come off, of course.

EvanB
EvanB GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
7/6/11 1:38 p.m.

NGK for the plugs and wires.

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork
7/6/11 1:40 p.m.

There's a company now making poly and delrin motor mounts for pretty cheap.

Alan Cesar
Alan Cesar Associate Editor
7/6/11 1:47 p.m.

I should clarify that the aftermarket mounts I was talking about are OEM replacements, not performance pieces. So avoid the ones at your local parts stores.

Keith
Keith GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
7/6/11 2:11 p.m.

The Mazdaspeed (which I usually call Mazda Motorsports, to distinguish from the Mazdaspeed brand) motor mounts are stiffer than stock. This will mean more NVH, which may or may not be objectionable to you. It seems to depend on how much time you spend with the top up. On my racer, they were fine. On my street Miata, they came out to be replaced with stock parts. And definitely don't go with poly or delrin unless you want a boatload of NVH.

You will have to undo the crank bolt to change the belt on any Miata motor other than the short-nose 1990/91 1.6. Don't be scared, it's not that hard to get right. Really, that key is not a challenge. Problems always stem from an improperly torqued crank bolt in my opinion. Don't forget the blue loctite on it. While you've got the belt off, replace the front crank seal. It's the most leak-prone seal in the bottom end.

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