I am brand new as of this morning. First I heard of the site. Live north of Toronto up in Canada. Love cars, trucks, bikes not so much anymore. Recent commercial truck driver too. Pretty good at going broke saving money. Always on the lookout for rust free reasonably priced deals. Right now that would include AWD's given winter is just around the corner.
Hey guys, I'm new to this forum! I started AX in 2007 in the Mid West Oio region but stopped AX in 2012 to try a season of New England Region Rallycross in 2013. I raced bicycles and motorcycles until I was able to purchase my dream car which is a 2004 Honda S2000. The car is no longer competitive in Cs and STR due to the ND2 Miata, but I'm loving the car none the less and I'm building it for STR & T4 events.
Hi everyone.
I'm Chad. New to this site. I have ran in a few autox events, but those were many years ago. Probably around 02 or 03. I definitely want to get back into it. I tried a few years ago and was told my car at the time was not allowed due to ease of roll over. (Ford Fiesta ses). My current car (Kia Soul) might be in the same boat. It doesn't really matter though, I'm currently on a deployment. I have several months to shop around. I thought GRM had gone out of print. I'm glad to see it hasn't.
Hi I'm new. I have a jdm Z32 but I'm looking at getting into autox so may need a new car soon..
Hi all, I'm sorta new here. I made an account back in 2018 but haven't really stuck around. Just looking to join a community of car nerds. I don't currently have a car of my own, but I do have a motorcycle, and a SBF 302 I'm building in my garage. Also picked up a 10 dollar T5 that "needs a lot of work." Who knows, maybe I'll have a mustang some day after building the motor and trans, maybe I'll just get a miata. Regardless, would love to go autocrossing and track day driving again. Happy to be here!
In reply to ChrisZ32 :
Just send it! No really, just make sure there aren't any leaks, that the wheel bearings are good and that the tread depth on the tires is above the wear bars. Also, no overheating is a good thing. And then just send it.
Bored with COVID and being stuck at home, and decided to go racing in the new year. Found a local rallycross offering outside of Ottawa, and figured why not, so I'm here to learn.
Hi. I'm Aaron. Home base is Oregon, close to Eugene. I used to subscribe to GRM, but let it lapse when I realized I really don't have much interest in autocross, and certainly would never find/make the time or money to pursue any form of organized racing.
But I like cars. Been driving the same sketchy old hot rod AW11 for almost two decades now. The parts runner and crap hauler is an equally ancient (moreso, in some ways) Jeep J20 pickup. Nothing says class like a smoky pink MR2 and a mossy AMC product fighting for parking spaces.
Joined up here mostly to follow a friend's build threads, and because I miss the community aspect of the MR2 forums, back when they were worth a damn.
Longtime lurker to this forum, joined after my little brother said I'd fit in here, seems my automobile ADD fits this forum well. My current stable includes the long term frame off/turbo 78 Malibu, the recently acquired K5, hunting rig Jeep XJ, and the lately/hardly driven Road King. Plus I do a little work with a good buddy on a neighbors ever changing stable of cars. This week I have a 77 Scout II and a 69 Camaro in my driveway/garage, last week there was a 50 Merc in the garage.
TheWraith said:This week I have a 77 Scout II and a 69 Camaro in my driveway/garage, last week there was a 50 Merc in the garage.
Not to gush like a schoolgirl, but I like where this is going.
Hello, I've been a subscriber for a few years now. I haven't posted much on the forum, as everyone around here knows way more than I do! I guess I'll have to post up some questions. I am a fan of sports cars and have been since going to the IMSA races in the 80s at Road America as a kid. I was also lucky enough to have raced Spec Racers in the SCCA for a couple of years when I was younger. Now, with a family I do not have anywhere near the funds for that which is why I really like this magazine and forum for all of the "low buck" ideas. Now if I can just find my own $1000 Mata near Wisconsin that isn't completely rusted out.
DarkMonohue said:TheWraith said:This week I have a 77 Scout II and a 69 Camaro in my driveway/garage, last week there was a 50 Merc in the garage.
Not to gush like a schoolgirl, but I like where this is going.
I'm always looking for my partner in ADD, I hope this forum serves me well.
these cars are just amazing [spam removed]
Hey folks, name is Rob, long time GRM/CM reader, mostly autocross competitor. Recently started on building a K-Swapped '63 Sunbeam Alpine (build thread over in the Build Forum). But previously, I've had a number of cars and projects I've worked on. Currently, time and space constrains me to one project, but that's okay, I can always day dream of what is next.
Glad to be here!
HI All, I've been lurking around here for a while now. This place is a brilliant resource and community. I picked up a '99 Miata this spring to do DE, Time Attacks, and Autocross. This place has been a great help along the way in the project of building this car.
Hope I can bring something to the table one day soon!
Joe
Hey everyone,
Just signed up. Long time motorsport fan but I've never had the means to really get involved until now. Hoping to soak up as much information as I can over the next year or so before I really dive in. I'm hopeful that track days will return soon!
Thanks!
greetings, good evening.
just signed up and got my account registered and activated.
i always dread typing intro's.... im not new to the car scene, or forums, just this one.
I wish id of found Nasa and this forum 20 years ago. lol.
So. ive currently got 2 vehicles,
My DD is a 2002 infiniti G20 base model with leather package. i bought in June 2019 for 1500 with 210000 miles on it, which currently has 219000 on the odometer, and which also i just got up and running about 2 months ago, after leaving it sit for 6+ months, due to being frustrated at it, and confused.
(last winter i replaced the rear braking system and then had a multisystem failure event happen upon starting the car up after completeing the rear brake system replacement. and refused to validate the fact that changing the rear brakes causes the alternator and 10 other sub systems to fail)
DUrinfg its down time, it also received some much needed love, i replaced the front seats, sound deadened the interior, replaced the front upper arms lower arms, swaybar endlinks and mount bushings, both drive shafts, did a full engine bay cleaning, replaced upgraded the engine bay ggrounds, installed led headlights, sealed up the lower windshield and fresh air inlet seal (water was pooling in the passenger front lfoor board, installed the factory option seat heaters, replaced the passenger side rear door hinges and thus realigned the door. replaced the power antenna, fully detailed the interior, had the windshield replaced, Learned how ridiculous a process of replacing the alternator is in these cars, lol.
i also took the front bumper off, sanded prepped it, repainted it, also did some clear coat respray on the rear of vehcile,
installed all 4 new oem shocks, new front rear calipers, rotors, Hawk Hps pads, with Hawk vented rotors up front, power stop calipers in the rear, brembo blank rotors in the rear, Raybestos Element3 pads on the rear.
Installed a custom SQ based hi-res flac audio cert stereo, in the car (. basically same setup as described below in the project car details)
installed my 16x8 0 offset 531 xxr's with 205 50 16 bridgestone uhp as tires w speed rating.
and back in september or really october she drove out of my moms shop on yer property. That shed been sitting in for half a year.
and aside from routine maintenace items has been a really excelent reliable vehicle, the G20 is the sentra se-r and or the primera and im not one to buy a car with an automatic. but upon driving it, for an auto it wasnt droll or unfun. and its surprised me.
any future upgrade plans will be only after the integra is completed and or if the timing chain needs replaced. Which at that point if when it comes, ill be sourcing a complete engine swap for either a qr2.5 sentra spec v engine or a primera jdm engine with the nissan vtec non turbo, most likely. k.i.s.s. philosphy. as i dont yet want to start wrapping my head around having to start learning obd2 engine system design theory etc. while simultaneously learing OBD0 and OBD1 engine management tuning etc
Second one is a project car, that pretty much has been a complete tear down and rebuild Resto-Mod project.
-which, is id say on the reassembly side of the hill ( per se).
once its reassembled it wil be the road course, Auto X, show, meet up, car.
what kind of vehicle is it,
1990 Acura Integra Ls Hatchback.
5spd ls trans
with a 98 Honda Orhia 9.2cr p8R B20b 2.0L
exterior
Paint is the Factory color the chassis came with: R72p. Red Torino Pearl.
I decided to replace the damaged body parts that were also removeable, (fenders, filler panel, hatch, etc. with Body parts from a previous 1990 integra i had that had no body damage, and then strip them prep them and re paint the panels with the facotry color n clear coat. Vs trying to achieve stright or as best as possible straight boddy lines with both the panels and the unibody being not straight, as this way. i know the peieces im going to be installing are not mishaped or contorted awhich then i just have to correct the dented or mishaped unibody sections.
Engine Bay was stripped down, and meticulously sanded prepped, primed, sealed, painted, sanded painted sanded etc then clear coated
all by hand and eye sight and feel, and the finish is universally the same across the entire engine bay, all performed by myself , Has Not yet been Mahcine Polished or buffed
and is essentially my first full process 2 part paint job,
Using Rust O leUm spray paint products, and wax grease remover
Wet Sanded with 3m Sand paper Grits used 80, 180, 220 320 400 600 800 1000 1200 1500 2000 2500 3000 (pad) & 5000 (pad) with w&g remover used each time between smoothing and spraying primer , color, n clear.
also used 003 Fine grade Steel wool between color coats and a couple courser grades of steel wool during prep n prime
Rust O Leum Metallic CHarcoal grey spray paint. (many many cans).
Rust O leum Crystal Clear Gloss Enamel Clear coat Spray Paint (several cans used)
I have intended on doing a bit of rework on the engine bay, Next spring, mainly to redo the clear coat. Using Crystal clear gloss 2K clear coat top coat, but i want to get some practice in applying the 2k clear coat as im told its not very forgiving at all. first.
Interior
Had to replace the complete sunroof assembly ( the car was rearended prior to me owning it and the crash had put several fracture cracks in the sunroof glass panel. so a buddy and myself spent an evening removing the bad one and then installing the new complete assembly
black interior with
Ive removed the original LS Front and Rear Seats (as the front seats werent matching and the fabric used for the rear seats is ugly AF IMO,
with a very nice condition and matched set of F&R seat set from a 1990 GS
Ive also installed a wood with chrome collar Acura RL or TL auto shift knob, Which i had to do a bit of customisation work to so that it would properly install on to a Manual shift lever
Dual bend GSR shift lever
Momo steering wheel adaptor
Momo wood grain Wheel with mirror polished chrome, or s/s center spoke.
Momo Horn Button with authentic Honda emblem on the Horn button ( been told its quite hard to come across an authentic momo horn button with an authentic H logo.)
The door handles are the chrome levers from i think the GS
and i installed a pair of Authentic Honda Chrome Window cranks with black knobs (Sourced purchased and shipped from an individual seller located in the Ukraine, along with a 4 position selector headlamp switch from a crx/civic the seller also had listed)
I am pretty pleased with how the overall finished look of the interior ended up.
stereo will be custom.
Kenwood excelon Hi-res audio certified headunit(ive got a couple laying around)
and then either a 3 piece speaker setup or 5 piece set up consisting of 1 pair or 2 pair of 6.75in JBL GTO coax or Inifinity Reference or Kappa 6.75in coax or Components, with either a single JL 10w1v3 svc4. or a single 12in Polk MM 1240 DVC4ohm
Stinger Pro or HPM premium 0awg OFC Power wire, Sewell Silverback Rca interconnects,
14gauge ofc Premium speaker wire (JL, stinger or Sewell silverback). for the stereo channels and then 10 or 12 guage of same brand decided on. Wire for the sub
Custom sub enclosure Sealed or may do a sealed vented type enclosure, not fully decided yet.
With either a Kenwood excelon xr series 901-5ch system amp or will have a late 90's either alpine V12 series 5ch amp or what id originally intended on installing was A 3ch or 4ch Xtant amplifier for system amp or running the stereo channels and a 2nd similar SQ high current AB class amp to run sub. Idk. thats still not fully decided on yet.
Main point is that the entire system wattage out put will be At or way under 500w total.
i think thats it for the details on the project vehicle lol.
Id like to also add that most every task that im performing on the project, is my first hands on attempt at actually doing the repair or work.
Ive had a wish/dream of one day having a full project car that i was able to take my time on and stuff, and then also gain the experience of doing the repairs etc.
ive been mulling over the idea of finding a local body shop that i could be an intern or apprentice with learning how to do professional body work and paint. and also obtain ASE certification. on the mechanical side.
The type of car/driving person i am would be easiest to describe as being a Jay Leno in that regard. Im a driving enthusiast, i love the Drive, im not a drag racer, or standing start/ stop light to stop light, just aint my thing, i dont seek out someone to race, so i can drive fast, im not an adrenaline junkie, im the other type of mindset. The race car driver mindset, if im driving above a suggested mph value, its just because i decided to, if someone else on the road decides to keep up with me, cool. i got someone to share the experience with.
Im 43, Been driving since i was 15-1/2 years old, and minus 2 years time in total i was without a vehicle, ive always retained my driving privledges, and as best i can or to the best of my ability made sure my vehicle is fully able to and safe condition to operate on the road accirding to my style of driving etc.
People have unsolicitedly complimented me on the fact that at no time being a passenger in my vehcile have never felt uneasy, unnerved or anything but calm. if im only doing 5mph over posted limit or 40 mph over the posted limit in heavy traffic and actively passing traffic utilizing all lanes available.
The first 10 years of driving, I logged 1.5million miles, in the drivers seat in in 4 seasons of weather, across mulltiple types of vehicles, learned how to drive in ice and snow in my 86 camaro berlinetta, and only times i ever got stuck were basically at the traffic lights i had to stop at lol,
ive had a lifted truck, a diesel ford f250, manual, auto, A 93 lumina, a 89 firebird, 86 camaro, 91 s10 2wd, 89 and 69 cougar, 68 chevelle malibu (concours level condition). A 93 sentra se-r. 88 si crx, 91 dx civic hb, 3 90 acura integras, and my latest vehicle a 2002 infiniti g20 Base leather package Auto transmission.
Ive also now started learing how to diagnose and repair 2004 LLY duramax 2500 hd silverado, a 2016 mazda cx5 (small suv),
I have a knack for wiring, and have thus also brushed up on and started improving upon my soldering skills, bought a full rework soldering station.
I do the work the right way and do it once, and if needed ill research and do the extra steps so that the repair is better than the original, i buy the Factory service manuals issued via the auto mfg, as my repair guide, will buy the correct and quality tools, to do the repair. as well.
Ive also found that i have a pretty decent ability at being able to repurpose things, orginally not thought of by the mfg of the items, that are safe valid uses.
on a whim one day after accidentally finding the Authentic ASE practice exam website. Decided to run a lithmus test of my mechanical apptitutde, or knowledge, having never turned a wrench professionally or purposesly studied for the purpose of taking the ASE.
So i took the General diagnositic and repair sectionof the test, and ended up getting a 70% score on it.
i guess that speaks as to how i got a 41 on the asvab and was going to be a M1 Abrams tank systems tech mechanic before i decided not join the army, only after my audition for the army band didnt pan out due to my inability to be able to sight read. only my skill at playing was told to me to be merit enough to aprove me for the band, but sight reading was a requirement, so nogo.
In proce
My 2nd Vehicle which is intended as my DD all year round and trying to keep it stock-ish, lol. or until i get my
As for the chassis all components will be or have been now completely replaced with all NEW OEM and or performance parts.
Front:
EF manual steering rack
poly mount bushings for the steeering rack.
Stock LCAS
Skunk 2 Pro upper control arm camber correction kit with Hard Race mount bushings
Innovative Race front traction bar with spherical endlinks
Timken wheel bearings
moog Premium lower ball joints, Inner and outer tie rod components
Yonaka full coilover setup front n rear
One piece Front strut tower brace WHite line racing iirc
New front Posi quiet Centric calipers
goodridge Stainless brake lines
Posi quiet Brake pads or they will Be Raysbestos Element3 pads
(bought before i knew about brembo blanks or the mini upgrade). Cross drilled slotted rotors from power stop bought on sale Front and rear
Poly endlinks and mount bushings for the front swaybar
Poly shift bushings, shifter was taken apart regreased had new parts installed
rear
Yonakas coil overs
ASR 24mm swaybar and chassis brace setup with spherical endlinks and poly mount bushings
DC sports One piece Rear strut tower brace
new Centric posi quiet calipers and element 3 pads power stop rotors
Hard Race RTA's
camber caster adj rear arms
New Timken Rear wheel hub n bearings
goodridge ss brake lines
BWR luminum rear lcas
engine and components upgrades, repairs etc.
3in Air Intake with dry filter
62mm ITR tb or 68mm Power Products TB with ftv delete
skunk2 Gen1 intake manifold
new felpro intake gasket
(preface : this next item, I bought due to the issue of my exhaustive search in trying to source Authentic rebuilt and documented flow tested 345cc PnH prelude injectors. )
RC engineering 370cc PnH hold injectors
New OEM injector seal set
Skunk2 cam gears.
New OEM water pump Koyo tensioner, honda timing belt, and tensioner spring.
new honda Oil pump
Felpro perma dry (blue silicone) oil pan gasket
Felpro perma dry valvc cover gasket and spark plug tube seals and valve cover grommet set
Felpro Cam gear side cam seals
Honda OEM Cam plug (distributor side)
distributor input shaft seal/oring
Complete replacement of all the Rubber hoses in the engine bay Gates brand used
Champion 3 row/3core? aluminum radiator with champion radiator cap. (100 bucks bought from local individual who had it sstill in originial box and packing that bought it but never installed. New OEM was 85 so i opted for the 15 upgrade lol)
Felpro Exhaust gasket
PLM TRI-Y long big tube 4 2 1 header
COllector back 2.25in diameter s/s custom exhaust piping,
Couple options for mufflers 18inch generic glaspak (from another integra i had) New Magnaflow glaspak 24in ( ithink ) 2.25 diameter i/o
Exhaust tip: Cylinder shaped Double walled stainless steel Magnaflow mirror polished 3.5 in diameter exhaust tip.
Electronics
Demon 2 installed in a obd1 p75 ecu with bluetooth option
Neptune Rtp software
Innovative motorsports digital LC2 wideband lambda o2 controller
Bosch wideband o2 sensor
Completely Custom made engine harness, no need for conversion plugs to be added. Created by Monotech USA
Obd0-OBD! ecu conversion harness
4gauge ofc ground strap upgrade.
Obd1 distributor, B18 distributor ( with plans to source a specific 98 orthia distributor eventualy to then replace the 1.8L distributor ((YES there is a specific distributor for the B20B, and i will find one, as im not a person who believes this common idea that just because a substitute will work, doesnt mean that you should use it, Im also thinking that using the specific jdm distributor may resolve the common issue (ive experienced as well as several others who have had a b20b p8r with a 1.8L Distributor ) which is that the B20b seems to hiccup or stumble between 3500 rpm and 400o rpm.
Innovative Obd1 4 wire O2 sensor plug, with stock Resistor box also wired in, to use the Rc Pnh injectors,
Hi everyone, I'm new here, but this community is something incredible. So many experienced and interesting people, I hope I can contribute to the community and get all my questions answered ;)
I've been reading GRM off and on for years, but never bothered to register or post until know. I'm an Electrical Engineer, specializing in motorcycle/powersports electronics, primarily charging systems. I've had a lifelong obsession with motorcycles and old cars, and usually have one or more of both. I've really enjoyed reading the build threads here, and like the community, so I figured it was time to join in. I'll be starting a build thread to document work on my current car, a 61 Ford Falcon, and current bike project, a 1971 Moto Guzzi Ambassador. I'm always buying and selling interesting stuff, so hopefully this will be a great place to share it!
In reply to David S. Wallens :
I am new, though I may have been on here years ago, I'm not sure.
I used to be on the Autoweek "combustion chamber" before it got axed. (BenLikesCars.)
I roll in a Mazda 6 stick which is nice.
I miss the Focus S stick I had before because that thing was rorty. (I totalled it.)
My sports car was a Honda Insight stick that I had for six fabled months. (I totalled it. This was a few years ago.) It reminded me of Dad's Saab Sonnet! (His brother totalled that. This was decades ago.)
I'm trying to figure out how to persuade my spouse to let me have a reasonably budgeted midlife crisis, preferably a Miata or something.
Last year, I got three tickets in one sitting (lawyers aren't cheap) and I wonder if a genuinely slow car might be best, maybe a Mitsubishi Jeep because those do look fun.
(In case you are wondering, I am a mediocre driver.)
I fantasize about bringing a minivan (Ford Windstar, for Ford racing heritage) to a 202X challenge.
(My wife is actually quite a good driver. If I am at a challenge and she gets behind the wheel, start recording. She is quite good. When we're running late, she drives! Insists on it...)
Hello all,
I am also new here. Just started reading. I drive this old Volvo 460. Which is my daily/family car. But also as always with older cars is a project car. Always something going on with it. I also planning to upgrade a few aspects of the car and hope i can find some answers here. About the car, it is a 90s econo box with everything from the 80s. 90hp, 1000kg, mcpherson front and solid beam rear axle. Stock without rear stabiliser added that later on. Still even its quite slow it is a fun and comfy car to drive. But it could be better
Hello,
My name is Dylan White. I've been doing Formula SAE and Formula Student for 4 years at UTA. This year I'm the Chief Engineer on the UTA SCCA A-Mod project.
I also worked my first race as an ACCUS/ FIA scrutineer at the 6 Hours of COTA right before the pandemic and am looking forward to doing more of that.
I'll be graduating from UTA in August with my BSME and am hoping to start a career in Motorsports.
Looking forward to chatting about Motorsports engineering with you all!
Hi, finally joined the forum.
I've been autocrossing with SCCA clubs (spent the last two as RE for our local region) for about 10 years, mostly all in Honda's ranging from Street to SMF builds, with my most recent full scale effort being an STX Civic Si. I think I enjoy the building and tuning as much as the driving! Also have an STR-lite S2000 and my longtime co-driver just picked up an Ecoboost Mustang we're going to dabble with in D Street.
Hoping to step up to some track days in 2021, and possibly Time Trials depending on how the national SCCA Solo season goes, but I'm kind of in no-mans land for road courses without traveling 300+ miles in any direction. Also, I do a little bit of sim racing via iRacing and Assetto Corsa, but my equipment (and skills!) are pretty modest.
Just a quick intro here. I've been into cars all my life and in my early college days, I owned and autocrossed GTIs and Sciroccos. After college I picked a 70 Datsun 1600 Roadster. I had a lot of fun restoring and building it into something special, but I couldn't get rid of the itch to own a Porsche. About 6 or 7 years ago, a high mile 968 coupe (last iteration of the 944 line) showed up on Craigslist, so I hastily sold the roadster and bought the P-car. It was a great first Porsche but eventually made way to an early Boxster. I missed the transaxle car though so ended up buying a project 944 Turbo. Then about three years ago I picked up a 75 914. So here I am today with three Porsches and a lot of projects to get done. I'll get a thread going on the cars soon. Cheers and here's looking forward to 2021!
Jeremy
New guy here. I'm getting back into cars after a very long hiatus. Did a few Gambler 500 events because they were low stakes, good times, E36 M3 box events. But I got the bug and now I'm building up a car for some AutoX once we can all get together again. I've got a '95 Miata with enough miles to make it to the moon and back. Beyond bolt on stuff I'm fairly clueless, so everything I do is a learning adventure.
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