I used to work for Johnson Controls and a VP for the battery group told me to buy the heaviest battery because there's more lead in the plates. It's the highest cost in producing a battery.
Also, in related news, Johnson Controls sold off the battery group late last year to a couple of Canadian financial groups.
I had a duracell automotive battery last about 6 months. Avoid at all costs.
New (plate lead acid) batteries suck now for a few reasons, but mostly because there is no development happening there anymore. Its effectively a legacy technology, and the rising cost of lead is only worsening matters. 'Virgin lead' is a thing, as many plates are made from poor purity recycled lead high in impurities, but that is usually only an issue in the cheapest brands. I find a desufation setting on some chargers quite effective getting another year out of an old one, but not much more.
I think AGM is the way forward currently, and have been using them a lot in my cars and motorcycles. I always thought sufation would kill these faster, but that doesn't seem to be the limiting factor.
Lithium based alternatives are promising, but I worry about the factory charge controller (or lack of one). For my truck I just get the heaviest that will fit with light modification.
All my batteries last me at least 6 years, usually parked outside, in colorado. When it is shorter, it is almost always due to running dry or being completely drained.
Hi everyone, long time lurker here and thought I'd throw in my experience.
98 Honda Prelude bought used by me around 2007 had an Interstate battery in it for who knows how long before I got the car. It died just late last year.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago, the OEM battery in my 17 Focus ST died with only 15,000 miles on it. Dealer replaced it under warranty but still. The service manager told me what has been said in this thread a few times, "Batteries just aren't as good these days."
In reply to DeadSkunk :
Very interesting ,as my Interstate source just dropped them in favor of Deka, as he was having too many warrantee problems recently. My ex sold her Lotus Europa a few years back with an 11 year old interstate that had been kept in an unheated, un tended shed every winter, and it would start easily in late March without a charge. It did have a kill switch. I have gotten 6 to 9 years on previous batteries, now I am nervous as both the Fiat and the Volvo received new this past year. Interstate in Volvo, Willard in Fiat.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Current Interstates might not be as good as those from past years. Sources change, costs drive down quality, lack of pure lead seems to be an issue as of late according to this thread, etc.
I find that newer batteries, or those made in the past 20 years have lasted far longer for me then those from when I first started driving. I have one battery that was OEM in a 2K Contour I owned. The alt. went out while on the road and I bought a battery to get myself home. I recharged that battery and used it off and one for years. It only died when I installed it in a car last year and then left the lights on. That finally killed it as it won't take a change anymore.
Still running original battery on my 2011 F150. Replaced it in winter of 2014/15 with an Interstate since it didn't start for me one night at work. Realized that it didn't start due to me not following the "cold start procedure", not battery (was like -10*F). New Interstate constantly told my F150 "low battery" each time I drove it. Got sick of that after 3 months, so charged up my original Ford and put it back in. No problems since. Just hit 65,000 Miles on original battery and tires.
Truck is 3.7L V6 used for mix of DD, vacation trips, highway, rural, around town, towing, in all weather conditions. Has been garaged maybe 5 nights total. Exposed to elements year round in the rust belt.
I just put a very nice Odyssey battery in my Disco. The Advanced Auto "autocraft" AGM I had in there lasted almost 6 years before it began having trouble holding a charge more than 24 hours.
Its been a week with the replacement batteries. Truck starter spins like a top. One day it was 2* and it started like it was summer time. Engine chugged a few seconds after it started, but at least it started. Had radio going all day yesterday as I worked on replacing storm doors on my house. 6 hours of non running, radio going, doors opening and closing, started right up after I was done. It was definitely the batteries. Good thing they came with a 4 year unlimited replacement warranty.
I just wanted to add that I noticed something. I have been fighting with a CEL in the disco since late summer. Supposedly I had an airleak that was letting too much unmetered air into the engine and making it run lean. The fuel injection could not compensate. I ran out of time to tear it all down, so I was going to wait till spring. Last time I looked at the codes, I had a dozen of them, all seemingly related to the air leak.
I changed the battery, drove it for three days and 75 miles. No CEL. I pulled the phone out, checked for codes.. none! I am thinking that low voltage from the battery was wrecking havoc with the computer and sensors. I also noticed that the engine was running smoother, with no loading up when idling at a light.
Unfortunately I also just killed the starter. I think making it start at lower than normal voltage weakened it and then going back to normal put the final nails in it.
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