SkinnyG
SkinnyG SuperDork
8/25/17 12:01 a.m.

Am I doing something wrong?

Only tested once, but it didn't kill the car.

Switch is a two pole switch.

Battery Positive -> [Switch-Big-Posts] -> Big-lug-feeding-everything

Alternator-Field -> Idiot Light -> [Switch-Wee-Posts] -> Keyed-Power

Switch ~should~ kill the wire to the alternator field (pin #1 on GM 10SI alt). Flicking the switch make the engine idle slower, but not die.

Could I just use the wee posts of the switch to kill to the fuel pump, or is it safer for the electrical to kill the alt. field current?

daeman
daeman Dork
8/25/17 12:13 a.m.

Try killing the alternator output wire, the battery input wire is there to provide an excitor current, once the alternator is producing charge it no longer required the input current to do so.

BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo MegaDork
8/25/17 1:05 a.m.

Put the alternator charge wire (the big one) on the battery side of the switch. If I'm thinking correctly that's all you would need, single pole switch, no need to cut the field wire or anything unless it will miraculously run on the little current the idiot light can flow.

dculberson
dculberson PowerDork
8/25/17 8:05 a.m.

In reply to BrokenYugo:

Exactly this.

SkinnyG
SkinnyG SuperDork
8/25/17 10:45 a.m.

Will that output wire need to be the 2/0 the rules seem to indicate? I have 2/0 running to under the dash to feed everything else, including the starter. Can I run something smaller and cheaper?

BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo MegaDork
8/25/17 11:19 a.m.

The alternator wire only needs to be able to handle and be fused for the amperage the alternator can put out.

SkinnyG
SkinnyG SuperDork
8/25/17 12:16 p.m.

Ah. Good. Another trip into town then....

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
DrmtPJOhOvhdwHuet7Urfo2KHtM30Yikcmw2hFvltCdrBqI1yB3T7W2utaNPDJgy