I'm looking at an extremely clean 2006 F-350 King Ranch. It's a 4x4, crew cab, short bed. Appears to be treated extremely well most of it's life. Stock, unmodified. 113,000 miles.
It has not been bulletproofed. Lots of maintenance receipts.
He's asking $18K.
Thoughts?
I'm just curious, what does bulletproof-ing entail?
If it was cheap enough. I'd stick with a 7.3 though.
18k. Way too much for me as you'll spend 5k and still have a 6.0 at sales time.
NorseDave wrote: I'm just curious, what does bulletproof-ing entail?
Imho that's not hateful, I would, problem is I've been over a fleet of 12 of them at one time as well as 3 years at a ford dealership and still have all the specialized tools (I think lol.)
Just be prepared and treat it like a euro car (i.e. Early Preventive maintenance on common failure times) and have the funds to back it up too.
Only way for me is to have a spare vehicle and willingness to work on everything and anything that needs fixing, no farming out repairs to a shop. I'd also need at hand an empty credit card of about 5k to cover parts costs.
Is it going to be a work truck, i.e. Your paycheck depends on it? If so, it does not bode well that a dealer tech says to treat it like a Euro car.
Hold out for a clean 7.3 the one my mom has for farm duty has been bullet proof without modifications.
I think the 06-07 are safe if left stock and maintained well. 18k sounds about right for a 100% stock KR with low mileage. I've known so many people with stock ones well into the 300k take that haven't needed extensive cab off work.
The 7.3 is too slow in my opinion. I miss my 6.0 truck.
Around here, that's a $11,000 TOPS. In Canuck $$$! I'd buy a non-bulletproofed 6.0 but only if it's cheap. You're going to spend at least $5k on it at some point to do it. They have a lot of "might-as-wells" while you're in there.
Yes, it's a daily driver work truck. My income depends on it.
I'm driving a 7.3 right now, and it's dead nuts reliable, but it has 530K on it, so I'm keeping my eyes open.
Just took a Duramax for a drive. 2008 LT model Crew cab short bed with the Allison and 186K on the clock. That's quite a truck- really nice to drive. Interior puts my Ford to shame. Dealer price is $24K.
When some people say "Work truck", they mean "Beat up piece of E36 M3". When I say it, I mean I have to LIVE in it for at least 10 years, my wife has to be willing to ride in it, and soon there will be grandkids too. (But I will never buy a new truck)
Bid on this - Canuck bucks
In reply to NGTD:
Ambulance chassis consumes much too much weight in the custom box, and I need a back seat.
These Canadian buys don't make sense. We cant import them until 25 years
yupididit wrote: These Canadian buys don't make sense. We cant import them until 25 years
Only if its a vehicle that is substantially different from one available in the US. An F350 in Canada likely meets the same emission standards as the non-California US model, so change it to mph on the speedo and go nuts.
If I were looking for a diesel truck these days, I'd be shopping in oil producing areas of the country. Its slowing down for him now, but a friend of mine with a towing company was making a pretty good living picking up repo'd brodozers around here. Check the buy'n'sell in Williston North Dakota. I presume $50/bbl oil is kicking their butts as well.
Bulletproofing isn't really an issue unless you are planning on towing a lot. The main issue at that mileage is injectors, if they go, it's a few grand.
Would the seller take $13k leaving you $5k to bullet proof?
Is the truck worth $23k if the proofing was done?
Some compromise of price in between?
I have a none stock (except wheels and a leveling kit) 05 psd 4x4 extra cab long bed.
Bought with 145k and have 170 now. No probs. No major probs before that I am aware of. Plan on doing extensive coolant flush and refill with not-ford coolant.
As I understand, the issues stem from sand being pulled into coolant from block casting. It clogs the coolers. A flush and coolant filter is the solution. There are other issues (head studs for example) but leaving stock and not upping boost seems like it avoids these issues again, just my limited research here.
If the price is good, I'd get it.
Paul, Call me if you want to talk financing. I borrowed on the Prius I bought. I used PenFed as I learned about here on GRM. It was silly easy and I could borrow at a name my own price (not just the sale price) so I borrowed more than I paid.
I'm implying that you could also borrow the price of proofing.
NorseDave wrote: I'm just curious, what does bulletproof-ing entail?
I'm waiting for someone to answer the NorseDave's question as well. I'm assuming it means replacing certain parts that are failure-prone. Is it that big a deal to do?
I just finished replacing the thermostat on an E39 M5, so ANYTHING seems like it should be easy to me right now.
In reply to Keith Tanner:
I had to know too so I googled it. From some diesel forum:
"the bullet proof kit will include the updating of the egr cooler to the stealth high flowing cooler larger veins to allow maximum flow with less restriction. also comes with the updated higher flowing engine oil cooler. modifications to the down pipe off the turbo to relieve the redirected exhaust flow. cleaning the turbo veins to allow better flow with the updated bearings and seals to allow better performance.complete head set to include ARP head studs and all related gaskets for the replacement of head gaskets. ... the fuel pressure spring will be updated to the ford tsb update it to prevent fuel pressure spiking to prevent the tops of the injectors from breaking. we also reseal the complete injector to including the high pressure oil rail and includes replacement of all 8 nipples in the rails and stand pipe and block off plugs are replaced not just the seals. we also replace the banjo bolt for the fuel feed to improve fuel flow. we also include a 58 volt ficm replacement in the repair quote.This includes the coolant filter setup as we spoke of to rid system of pesky sand left in block from casting of the engine block."
here is the basic list of bulletproofing a 6.0
high-pressure oil pump upgrade,
oil cooler rebuild or replace,
arp head studs
head gasket,
egr upgrade or delete kit
Keith Tanner wrote:NorseDave wrote: I'm just curious, what does bulletproof-ing entail?I'm waiting for someone to answer the NorseDave's question as well. I'm assuming it means replacing certain parts that are failure-prone. Is it that big a deal to do? I just finished replacing the thermostat on an E39 M5, so ANYTHING seems like it should be easy to me right now.
You couldn't pay me to do any work on a 6.0 on my own time. I'd do it at work but I'd grumble and grouse a lot. I've yet to see any BMW that was as much of a pain to do the simplest of tasks.
There is a LOT of "stuff" under the hood in ways that make 3000GT VR4s look spacious, and none of it is very accessible. It appears that everything has been designed by accumulation and little to no thought was given to serviceability.
I have done work on one, two main radiator hoses, on a vehicle that someone else had previously de-emissioned, which seems to be standard equipment. Even with most of the emissions equipment removed there was still a remarkable amount of disassembly required to do even that much, and I even cheated on a few things.
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