Don't try to fix the rust. In my experience living in Salt land, once you touch it, it will just rust faster.
Don't try to fix the rust. In my experience living in Salt land, once you touch it, it will just rust faster.
In reply to NGTD:
I was amazed at how well rust converter brushed on was at keeping rust confined on my Mazda.
Brushed on maybe three layers after drying and without any other treatment, rust was stopped even though it sat out for almost two years afterward
Plastic flares will cover the fender issues. Cheap too. Temp fix, though. Metal work to come.
From a southern boy (i.e. surface rust is too scary for me), what about some rust converter and liberal treatments of bondo and/or fiberglass repair to get it close and then paint with whatever you can find that matches "close enough"? If you plan on keeping it, you'll know the damage already and can fix it better when time allows?
-Rob
In reply to rob_lewis:
Ya know, I think that's what's gonna happen.
What I usually do as a cheap and fast fix is to use Great Stuff expanding foam.
Grind out/cut out a small section to get most of the cancer out. Hit it with some naval jelly or something similar. Fill the cavity with spray foam and shave it off. Then I cut it sub-flush with a wire brush and mix up some epoxy with a microfiber filler (make your own bondo) and fillet, sand, and paint.
The nice thing about this technique is that if you want to do a proper repair later, you just use pliers to rip out the epoxy and brake cleaner to dissolve the spray foam.
Just make sure you use actual epoxy, not polyester resin. Poly resin won't set as strong as epoxy and it doesn't grip well. It will fall off in a year. Bondo doesn't work well because the foam substrate moves and shakes.
Hmmmmm, so a two-part epoxy and microfiber filler, is that like the shredded fiberglass?
Ive worked with epoxy but I'll have to look up the filler.
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