Alright. I'll call around this morning and see what I can find for a machine shop.
Alright. I'll call around this morning and see what I can find for a machine shop.
I would just put a head on it, not worth fooling with replacing valves as the "while your in there" add up: guides, seals, at least the 4 ex valves, resurface, valve job, cleaning...
Like Paul said, cheaper to put on a good used head vs having yours rebuilt...
In reply to docwyte :
You have a Denver area machine shop you like?
I've been looking on E-bay and there are fully remanufactured heads with free shipping for like $300. I'd be pretty surprised if I didn't buy one of those today.
Another vote here for either buy a good used head or have a competent machine shop rebuild. I haven't had much luck with reman heads, the reman I bought for my SR20 rebuild (incidentally right around $300) dropped an exhaust valve right into my #4 piston. Luckily I had a spare head (and piston too), the machine shop that rebuilt it charged me almost twice what the reman cost, but it's been humming along ever since.
I just ordered a rebuilt head from a big outfit in West Virginia. They have like a 99% positive rating on ebay with about 30K responses. Good enough for me.
I called them and gave all my info directly, and the guy looked it up and said they had one in stock and ready to go -$350 with free shipping. I stick my core back in the box and slap the provided return label on it. Easy. I'm hoping it'll get here before the weekend.
So now I'll get the block cleaned up and get the other parts on order. Head gasket kit, cam seal, and head bolts are already in my Rock Auto cart. Will need to get some new plugs and wires - OEM is Bosch? What else am I missing?
I don't know anything about VW engines, are they one of those "while you're in there" engines for water pump/oil pump replacement with the timing belt? EDIT: (Has sinful thoughts of old Hondas)
Things are moving forward. If tracking-emails are to be trusted, the head and all the gaskets and bolts should arrive today. Still need to get new plugs and wires - LAPS will do for that.
What about torqing the head-bolts? Rock Auto calls them "Ribe-CV" heads.
Looks a lot like a Torx, but not quite. Is this a VW dealership thing?
I got mine from the Snap On guy, you may be able to get it elsewhere.
Went to two different NAPA stores and found it.
For reference it's a Ribe 10mm bit or also called a Poly Drive.
The new head arrived too. Time to dig into it and see if it looks correct!
That was fast!!!
In reply to TVR Scott :
Ribed for your displeasure
It's perfect!
I've got just about everything swapped over. One of the exhaust studs fought me a bit, but a bit of heat and some taps with a brass hammer got it out.
The cam gear was a little tricky. There's probably a better way of doing it:
I need to get a manual with torque specs. Looks like I can download a pdf for about $75 - hopefully it's good and has all the info I need.
The woodruff key on the cam pulley doesn't want to go in the new cam - is this usually replaced?
And I can reuse the cam-pulley bolt? The one I have is in good shape. I can't even find it offered on Rock Auto, so that makes me think it might be reusable.
Progress...
Check the VW dealer, aftermarket VW replacement parts are notorious for being terrible quality. Good choice on getting a fresh head too, that looks like the same setup as the old ones that ruin the lifter bores when they break a timing belt.
Tk8398 said:Check the VW dealer, aftermarket VW replacement parts are notorious for being terrible quality. Good choice on getting a fresh head too, that looks like the same setup as the old ones that ruin the lifter bores when they break a timing belt.
Ask the dealer and they will tell you that you shouldn't replace your own cylinder head as well.
TVR Scott said:The woodruff key on the cam pulley doesn't want to go in the new cam - is this usually replaced?
And I can reuse the cam-pulley bolt? The one I have is in good shape. I can't even find it offered on Rock Auto, so that makes me think it might be reusable.
Progress...
They woodruff key is there for alignment when assembling, the clamping force is provided by the bolt holding the mating surface of the pulley to the cam. Or so it was explained to me by someone smarter than I. I have reused the cam bolt and key on multiple gas and diesel vw's and never had an issue. How far off fitting is the key in the new cam?
In reply to 1SlowVW :
The key is pretty close. I might have to file the edge a touch, but I think it'll go in. Maybe I'll try using my drill press vise as a press.
Good to know the cam bolt is reusable. Any wisdom on torquing it?
TVR Scott said:In reply to 1SlowVW :
The key is pretty close. I might have to file the edge a touch, but I think it'll go in. Maybe I'll try using my drill press vise as a press.
Good to know the cam bolt is reusable. Any wisdom on torquing it?
Wet sand it. Or emery cloth. Put the paper on a flat surface and sand by sliding it back and forth on the flat sides. There is probably a small bur on the edge from it being tapped in when it was installed. You just need to knock that down to get it to fit in.
In reply to TVR Scott :
The old 8v motors were 60ft/lbs and I usually gave them a drip or two of your favourite thread locking compound because I never wanted to have one back out.
Good advice on the flat surface and sand paper above from Dean.
Good stuff, guys, thanks.
Head gasket set arrives this afternoon. Hopefully it's all correct and present.
Made some good progress on Saturday. First I cleaned up the top face of the engine.
The head gasket kit did indeed come with the torquing sequence, so I went ahead and bolted the head in place. No issues there either:
I got most of the reassembly done on the exhaust, intake manifold, and coolant system.
I thought I could fully reinstall the timing belt and tensioner from above, but it looks like I'll need to jack the car and take off the P/S wheel. Looks like the simpler, better, way.
There are a few head-scratchers I need to resolve. The biggest question is the tiny vacuum hose line on the P/S of the intake manifold. Whatever hose was there got removed by the questionable-local-mechanic. I have no clue where it's supposed to go. Edit: here's the port in question.
I broke the plastic dip-stick housing, which is annoying.
I'm debating replacing the water pump "as long as I'm in there". Also, since it looks like I'm going to be making another Rock Auto order, I'll probably order a new tensioner too. Any strong opinions on those?
If you are doing a belt, do the waterpump.
Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:If you are doing a belt, do the waterpump.
Got it. My gut says to buy a pump with a metal impeller. Is that the way to go, or is the plastic better in some way? To stir the pot more, looks like some of the metal ones are stamped steel and some are cast aluminum (or zinc?).
I'm probably overthinking this...
In reply to TVR Scott :
The plastic impeller is more efficient, moves more coolant with less parasitic loss because of its superior shape.
The metal impeller doesn't fall off after 60,000 miles, especially if you have a manual transmission.
I agree, on the vr's the metal pumps' bearings always died early. The plastic ones seemed to hold up better.
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