Hey guys, need some opinions from some more experienced racers.
I've been putting together a Lexus SC300 to run in the ChumpCar 14 hr enduro at Road Atlanta in February and it's time to get the brake pads. I was planning to get something really serious like Hawk DTC-60s, Porterfield R4-Es, Carbotech RP2s, Raybestos ST-43, PFC 97, etc. However, they're all custom-made for my application and are going to run about $500 for all four corners. So, I've been thinking about running EBC yellowstuff pads, which are ~1/3 the price and readily available. I'm sure they won't hold up quite as well, but want to know if you guys think they'll last for 14 hrs.
Here are some additional specs on the car:
~2900 lbs race weight
~220 bhp
Using big Lexus LS400 rotors and 4-pot all-aluminum calipers up front, OEM SC300 calipers/rotors in the back.
I'm planning to remove the dust shields and/or run some brake ducts to front rotors.
If you have any experience with these and can post your car's make/model, weight, and how well the pads held up, that would be awesome.
Thanks a ton!
tuna55
PowerDork
12/4/13 6:56 a.m.
We have used Mustang brakes on both an Amazon (2500 lb) and a big ol' LTD (>4000 lb), both with Hawk pads. Once with DT-10 and the other with DTC-60. Even the LTD couldn't wear them out in one Lemons race weekend. We are BIG fans.
I used them on one of my Miata track cars and they were fine for my needs. I did about ten events with them before selling the car. There are more aggressive options out there for sure, but these held up well, were easy on rotors and they were quiet.
tuna55 wrote:
We have used Mustang brakes on both an Amazon (2500 lb) and a big ol' LTD (>4000 lb), both with Hawk pads. Once with DT-10 and the other with DTC-60. Even the LTD couldn't wear them out in one Lemons race weekend. We are BIG fans.
Yeah, I've been extremely impressed with DTC-60s on my miata for track use. I would go with them, but I don't think they're available at all for the calipers I'm using.
Woody wrote:
I used them on one of my Miata track cars and they were fine for my needs. I did about ten events with them before selling the car. There are more aggressive options out there for sure, but these held up well, were easy on rotors and they were quiet.
You're talking about the yellowstuff pads, right? What type of events were these, HPDE? (Trying to get a feel for how well they deal with very high temps.)
tuna55
PowerDork
12/4/13 8:41 a.m.
JohnyHachi6 wrote:
tuna55 wrote:
We have used Mustang brakes on both an Amazon (2500 lb) and a big ol' LTD (>4000 lb), both with Hawk pads. Once with DT-10 and the other with DTC-60. Even the LTD couldn't wear them out in one Lemons race weekend. We are BIG fans.
Yeah, I've been extremely impressed with DTC-60s on my miata for track use. I would go with them, but I don't think they're available at all for the calipers I'm using.
See if the DT10s are available. We actually chose a pad compound first and then chose a caliper based on how cheap it was to get a pad for it and only then figured out how to mount it to the car.
If they're dedicated track pads why go for Yellowstuffs? The Orangestuff pads would fit your use better and I think they cost about the same. And brake vents for endurance racing is a very good idea regardless of what pads you're running.
Removing the backing plates isn't such a good idea...it gives you a little more cooling vs. having them on without brake vents, but makes a huge mess, puts more heat into other parts and causes big performance problems in the wet.
Edit: Did a little research and I've seen complaints of Orangestuffs wearing down fast when hot, be sure to have brake vents with them.
tuna55
PowerDork
12/4/13 8:55 a.m.
GameboyRMH wrote:
If they're dedicated track pads why go for Yellowstuffs? The Orangestuff pads would fit your use better and I think they cost about the same. And brake vents for endurance racing is a very good idea regardless of what pads you're running.
Removing the backing plates isn't such a good idea...it gives you a little more cooling vs. having them on without brake vents, but makes a huge mess, puts more heat into other parts and causes big performance problems in the wet.
Yeah, cut a hole in the backing plate and use it to rivet on the end of your ducting. That's what we did.
In reply to GameboyRMH:
Apparently they don't make Orangestuff pads for these calipers yet.
If it were a <2500lb car I'd say you'd definitely be fine with Yellowstuffs and brake vents...at that weight I still think you'd be OK. They're possibly the most track-worthy of the mixed street & track pads out there.
That's a relatively heavy car. I would call up Carbotech and see what they recommend. I would rather pay twice as much and not change pads during the race than pay half as much each for two sets of pads.
In reply to Tyler H:
Yeah, I agree and that's exactly what I'll do if it sounds like the yellowstuff are really borderline. But, if we can pay 1/3 as much and make it through 14 hrs, then that's a good way to go.
GameboyRMH wrote:
If they're dedicated track pads why go for Yellowstuffs? The Orangestuff pads would fit your use better and I think they cost about the same. And brake vents for endurance racing is a very good idea regardless of what pads you're running.
Removing the backing plates isn't such a good idea...it gives you a little more cooling vs. having them on without brake vents, but makes a huge mess, puts more heat into other parts and causes big performance problems in the wet.
Edit: Did a little research and I've seen complaints of Orangestuffs wearing down fast when hot, be sure to have brake vents with them.
Interesting that at my last track day (and all my others) I've had absolutely no problem not having backing plates, and the first 4-5 sessions were in the wet too.
JohnyHachi6 wrote:
In reply to Tyler H:
Yeah, I agree and that's exactly what I'll do if it sounds like the yellowstuff are really borderline. But, if we can pay 1/3 as much and make it through 14 hrs, then that's a good way to go.
Can't argue with that, as I'm guilty of going down that road more than once.
I will say that I have never regretted investment in better brake pads.
In reply to JohnyHachi6:
I ran Yellowstuff on an '07 MINI because they were the only "trackworthy" pads available for that car when it first came out. They worked O.K. until the friction material decided to walk off the backing plate before they were half worn. That manufacturing flaw makes them dangerous in my book.
Had lousy wear with a couple of different Carbotech compounds on a couple of different cars, both light & heavyweights. Burned through the friction material & welded a caliper piston to the backing plate, also on the MINI. That was day 2 on a new set of XP-10's, 12's or whatever.
Hawk or PFC would be worth the expense if it were my choice. The PFC01's were excellent on a 3500 Lb G35. The Hawk DTC60's are a good match on a 2400 Lb turbo Miata.
Didn't realize those cars were that heavy in 'race' trim. Any way to drop more weight?
In reply to amg_rx7:
Yeah, hoping to get it lighter, but I have crunched the numbers yet. Want to be conservative with the brakes though.
My ZX2SR came from the factory minus front backing plates, I ran the car for 10 yrs. dd, track days , hill climbs, you use a lot of brake coming down, even ice racing with out a problem, snow and slush.
JohnyHachi6 wrote:
I was planning to get something really serious like Hawk DTC-60s, Porterfield R4-Es, Carbotech RP2s, Raybestos ST-43, PFC 97, etc. However, they're all custom-made for my application and are going to run about $500 for all four corners.
$500 for all 4 corners with proper endurance race pads is cheap. Don't be a cheap-azz on the one product you can spend money on in chumpcar racing. Changing hot pads SUCKS, especially at night.
carbon
Reader
12/4/13 6:10 p.m.
Dashpot wrote:
In reply to JohnyHachi6:
I ran Yellowstuff on an '07 MINI because they were the only "trackworthy" pads available for that car when it first came out. They worked O.K. until the friction material decided to walk off the backing plate before they were half worn. That manufacturing flaw makes them dangerous in my book.
Had lousy wear with a couple of different Carbotech compounds on a couple of different cars, both light & heavyweights. Burned through the friction material & welded a caliper piston to the backing plate, also on the MINI. That was day 2 on a new set of XP-10's, 12's or whatever.
Hawk or PFC would be worth the expense if it were my choice. The PFC01's were excellent on a 3500 Lb G35. The Hawk DTC60's are a good match on a 2400 Lb turbo Miata.
We had the same delamination failure on yellowstuffs on the commute attack spyder. I like the hawks feel better anyway. I liked them on my mkiv supra and on my is3 too.
Thanks for the replies guys. Some good stuff here.
To address some of your comments:
- I really like the Hawk pads too, I run DTC-60's on my miata when it's on track. Unfortunately Hawk has nothing for these calipers (other than OE-type ceramics and maybe HPS).
- I would agree that money on brake pads is usually well-spent, but I want to see what options are out there.
- Technically, the Yellowstuff pads are the only pads mentioned in this thread that are legal for me to run in ChumpCar due to the new 2X parts-store prices rule. I could probably stretch this a little, but just sayin'. Technically a full set of pads should be under ~$320 to be legal for this car.
Again, I know there are better pads out there. I know it often pays off in the long-run to get them. I've used several of those mentioned here on other cars with great results. However, right now I am really just trying to find out what experiences people have had with the EBC's and if they're a feasible option for a 14 hour race.
Thanks again.
JohnyHachi6 wrote:
I am really just trying to find out what experiences people have had with the EBC's and if they're a feasible option for a 14 hour race.
Thanks again.
2 out 3 actual users in this thread have had those pads fail. They fell apart. Would you now consider them unfeasible?
JohnyHachi6 wrote:
Technically a full set of pads should be under ~$320 to be legal for this car.
If budget is an issue, run the good stuff up front as it does all the braking, and the yellows in the back. I HIGHLY recommend Raybestos ST43's, they are da bes!