Honestly it is better shape then I was expecting. It is the 25th bike this guy had sold over the last two weeks.
Can anyone help me figure out the year and if it is a 175 or 250? The tag on the motor says T1-130488. Also are there any forums dedicated to old dirtbikes or the Yamaha MXs in particular?
Sure it's not AT1? look on the frame motor and frame numbers should match if he gave you the OEM motor. Could be at1 ct1 dt1 rt1 jt1. Yes theres a few sites.
parts http://216.168.60.165/speedandsportinc/index.tpl
Good forum http://www.yamahaenduro.com/index.php but people selling home made tools that are not needed if you know about thermal expantion tend to well irk me a tad.
right side of bike as you sit on it. On the head tube. The steel tube the fork tripple tree stem goes thru.
CT3 Main Prefix
Model CT3
Year 1973
Model Name ENDURO
Type DUAL PURPOSE
Start Engine # CT1-100101
Engine Type 2 Stroke
Displacement CCs 175
Cylinders 1
Ignition Points
Starter Kick
Transmission 5 Speed
Color/Trim Gold Dust
Front Susp Telescopic Fork
Rear Susp Swing Arm /Shocks
Notes
Model name: CT3
If you go here http://216.168.60.165/speedandsportinc/index.tpl type in 73 ct3 in the parts finder you'll see on the left sections from the micro-feshe and part numbers ect.
"Bike bandit" also has parts for the older models. Funny i kept seeing out ragus cost for one part on Fle-bay that i was able to get right from Yamaha thru bike badit of 1/3 the cost so check with your local dealer or bike bandit before going to "Vintage dealers"
Oh if your an AMA meamber you save 10% at bike bandit
I saw someone did a rear disc brake conversion to one of these bikes. Does anyone know what parts that requires?
Ask yourself why? New modern materail shoes can be had from EBC and Versarh. cool look yes...extra cash spent hell ya..
some new EBC shoes will work wonders. I put EBC pads and shoes on my honda, and it made a HUGE difference even retaining the rear drums. It doesn't weigh enough to need rear disc.
44Dwarf wrote: As yourself why? New modern materail shoes can be had from EBC and Versarh. cool look yes...extra cash spent hell ya..
I didn't know if it was something someone had just pulled off another bike or what.
nope not a direct bolt on you need a diffrent hub. Then fab a master cyl holder, pedal, hose, caliper holder and caliper too. Not that hard but not worth it unless your flat track racing and even at that its a waste.
The bike after working on it today.
Piles of extra parts.
The rear fender has seen better days.
All that crap on the floor came out of the tank.
Not to bad!
I know several guy who've done rust removal inside gas tanks with electrolois but i've not done it yet. I've submerged whole tanks but it will remove most of the paint.
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
Hows the crank feel? whats the cyl bore look like?
In reply to 44Dwarf:
I haven't really looked at the engine at all. What do you submerge the tank in?
If you only want to clean / de-rust the inside just fill with water and washing soda as in the link above. If you want to clean inside and out submerge whole tank. I use a 30 gall plastic tube from the $1 store. for ground rods i use some 8 inch U Chanel scraps someone gave me and supend the tank via fish line and nails in joists above head. To clean the inside you'll need rods in the tank think line of site for the power. Go in trough the gas cap to both sides. coat hanger will work side rubber gas line over the section by the cap neck so it will not short out.
google found these quickly
http://www.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/projects-how-write-ups/49040-help-rusted-gas-tank.html
Well it will remove any no hard bonded paint...might pull off all non catalized paint but not sure. if theres a chip it will eat it back.
You'll need to log in to post.