Here's the story, I bought a wrecked but running 2005 R6 to put that engine in my Zink Fmod car. I got the engine mounted using the R6's instrument cluster and very carefully extended the Yamaha wiring harness to the cluster while trimming out wires for the lights, horn, etc.
Finally up to the point of doing a test start and..... no. It cranks but no spark. If I go to the DIAG mode, there are no codes and when I go to item 30 (the cylinder 1 ignition test) I get the 5 sparks just like the book says. But, hit the start button and crank but no spark.
The wiring has been double checked and no faults found.
Ideas? I'm starting to suspect the ECU.
Is your engine grounded well? Block and heads both grounded to frame/negative terminal?
Patientzero said:
Is your engine grounded well? Block and heads both grounded to frame/negative terminal?
Yep, all the ground wires tie back to part of the mounting structure.
When you say the harness was double-checked, did you continuity check each wire end to end while everything was disconnected?
I rebuild a totaled car that drove me nuts for a while. Turned out the harness had been pinched in the crash and, even though it looked fine outside, wires were cut inside the loom.
Just because we chased these issues with the Bezerkley for a while....
No bike stuff missing that the computer expects to see? Tilt switch, kickstand switch, neutral switch, etc.?
CJ said:
When you say the harness was double-checked, did you continuity check each wire end to end while everything was disconnected?
I rebuild a totaled car that drove me nuts for a while. Turned out the harness had been pinched in the crash and, even though it looked fine outside, wires were cut inside the loom.
Yep, ohmeter from end to end.
Tom Suddard said:
Just because we chased these issues with the Bezerkley for a while....
No bike stuff missing that the computer expects to see? Tilt switch, kickstand switch, neutral switch, etc.?
All parts are there except the kickstand switch because the clutch lever isn't there yet. However, in neutral the kickstand is out of the circuit. If it was physically attached to the engine it wasn't touched. I didn't even unplug the power commander! When I extended the harness to the instrument panel I went one wire at a time.
The only thoughts I have are the ECU took a dump. Is it possible that the ECU won't allow the bike to run if the headlight circuit isn't there?
Is the tip over sensor still around or was it deleted?
bigeyedfish said:
Is the tip over sensor still around or was it deleted?
On this bike that's the lean angle cutoff and, yes, it's still in the system, it's level and can be/has been tested in the DIAG mode.
Clutch switch? It must think the clutch is in even if in N(???!!!)
I'd double check the kickstand switch. In fact can you wire it up as the switch would be if the stand was up?
Try taking the Power Commander off. When my bike was shipped from Italy back to the states it wouldn't start. My Power Commander had lost it's tune apparently from being disconnected from the battery too long. Took it off and it fired right up. I reloaded the tune on the PC and it was good to go.
I would also check the side stand switch, unless you're sure it is an on/off switch. The hall effect ones can do weird stuff.
Does the bike have an immobilizer? I've seen those cause all kinds of issues, and usually they work by cutting spark.
wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) said:
Clutch switch? It must think the clutch is in even if in N(???!!!)
If the clutch switch were the issue then it wouldn't crank either. The qualifying events are either clutch plus kickstand OR (gear selector in) neutral to get a start.
jfryjfry said:
I'd double check the kickstand switch. In fact can you wire it up as the switch would be if the stand was up?
I have actually done that to confirm that the start relay was good. The kickstand status is also displayed in DIAG mode.
Patientzero said:
Try taking the Power Commander off. When my bike was shipped from Italy back to the states it wouldn't start. My Power Commander had lost it's tune apparently from being disconnected from the battery too long. Took it off and it fired right up. I reloaded the tune on the PC and it was good to go.
Already tried that too. Interesting info on the PC, I'll keep it in mind.
gearheadE30 said:
I would also check the side stand switch, unless you're sure it is an on/off switch. The hall effect ones can do weird stuff.
Does the bike have an immobilizer? I've seen those cause all kinds of issues, and usually they work by cutting spark.
No immobilizer, European models had one but not the US. Euro models have a resistor in one of the wires that go from the ignition switch to the ECU and, yes, the do cut the spark. The side stand is just a switch, nothing fancy.
Are all the spark plugs actually good?
I see you tested one but what about the other 3? Is the ignitor module good (those are generally cheap on eBay and easy to swap out to try another.
All fuses good?
Also, double check all the harness plugs are correctly connected. On my Honda 600 I've incorrectly plugged coil 1 into the coil 2 plug and vice versa, causing a no start.
I've actually done it 2x because most of the harness is self-explanatory but that is one place you can swap connectors.
Also, my 600 runs fine with no headlight. But I left the harnesses there, just no bulb is plugged in.
Is the kill switch in the run position???
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:
Also, my 600 runs fine with no headlight. But I left the harnesses there, just no bulb is plugged in.
I removed the headlight relay that comes from the ECU so it *could* sense that nothing is there.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:
Is the kill switch in the run position???
I haven't seen a kill switch on the Yamaha
This is what I'm talking about. The bike absolutely would have had one. It would be on the handlebar.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:
This is what I'm talking about. The bike absolutely would have had one. It would be on the handlebar.
Ahhhh, that's what Yamaha calls a RUN switch. It has been replaced with the secondary terminals on the kill switch.
